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The Thread to Display Your 1940s Suits
I'm less sure. Look at the height of the bottom button from the hem and pocket flaps. Could be stylistic, but it looks a little disproportionate to me.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #170
- Forum: Suits
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Suits - Pre 1920
Wow! What a super example of an early sack lounge. You can see that how the foreparts are cut (very round) marks the period where the morning or 'walking' coat was standard wear and the newer sack or lounge is a shorter version retaining elements of that design.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #515
- Forum: Suits
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What do you use to shave?
Unless someone specifically wants a vintage model, for a first DE razor there's probably a better deal to be had on a new model. Like the Parker razors which are only €20 (or similar). For one thing you're guaranteed to still have all the nickel-plating present. I prefer the older two-piece (or...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #1,678
- Forum: Skills and Smarts
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Vintage Suitings: Discussions of, and sourcing modern equivalents, etc.
A fair number of tailors will accept cloth supplied by the customer. You should first look for the tailor who you think will make the kind of suit you want, and only then ask if you can supply the cloth. Very often the cloth is a large part of the tailor's price and they don't much like making...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #541
- Forum: Suits
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What color waistcoast for morning dress?
I thought I'd post this. It's the morning dress bit of a "dress guide" published alongside a 1960's Tailor & Cutter magazine. Note that the buff waistcoat is not even mentioned!, which is odd because it was known before then.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #10
- Forum: Suits
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What color waistcoast for morning dress?
Morning dress became codified in the 20th century as it became merely 'special occasion' wear rather than functional dress. So in the early 19th century you had all kinds of not only waistcoat colours, but silks and brocades. Charles Dickens and Benjamin Disraeli favoured such waistcoats wearing...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #9
- Forum: Suits
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About tweed suits...
I wonder if anyone who writes 'Mommy' is English at all! There are a lot of styles you're referencing there, some very unusual (painter's smocks?). I can't help but look askance at 'working-class chic' adopted as a fashion statement. My grandfather wore clothes like this because he had to, not...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #89
- Forum: Suits
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About tweed suits...
That is so very true. I'm also of working class stock and I'd say jewellery is far more common there than among other classes. It can be gaudy and in-yer-face (chunky bracelets, overly-large rings), but there was never much self-consciousness about it. Most men of that class in the 30s/40s/50s...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #87
- Forum: Suits
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Demise of Cutter & Tailor forum and the new forum link
I didn't know where best to post this... Anyone who visited may already know that the Cutter & Tailor forum went offline due to some kind of server issue and seemingly hasn't been restored. It had a massive wealth of accumulated knowledge and info about bespoke tailoring, old and new...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Thread
- Replies: 1
- Forum: Ask The Artisan
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What do you use to shave?
This is the scuttle I use: It's 70s 'Clarice Cliff'. Not like one of the 'open', often metal, scuttles, but it's the best for keeping the lather hot in-between applications. Filled with hot water the ceramic warms up; the brush resting in the upper chamber stays warm and excess water drains...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #1,675
- Forum: Skills and Smarts
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What color waistcoast for morning dress?
I voted for black (made from the same cloth), but I'd opt for buff too. When in doubt, black is always correct for this ensemble.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #3
- Forum: Suits
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Show us your TIES
Isn't the date just the patent date and not specifically the date of the tie itself? It's a beautiful tie.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #11,277
- Forum: General Attire & Accoutrements
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About tweed suits...
Indeed. It's nearly always the case. It has to be remembered that this is the suits section of Fedora lounge, a vintage style forum, rather than the Pitti Uomo review on Styleforum.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #72
- Forum: Suits
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Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits
Good lord! I must be going blind.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #721
- Forum: Suits
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About tweed suits...
Weaker. A £300 coat, for example, will cost $430 dollars.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #65
- Forum: Suits
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Show Us Vintage GERMAN Suits
Superb. The leather-trimmed facing running around the inside pocket is tremendous.- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #718
- Forum: Suits
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whats your favorite kind of suit?
Like Chasseur I'm partial to the 1930s silhouette or the Harold Lloyd late 1910s/early 20s look. It is somehow an ideal shape. For winter I like tweed suits, two-button, notched rever and single or double vents, patch pockets; moderately roomy plain-top braced trousers with plain hems, with...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #22
- Forum: Suits
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About tweed suits...
I don't quite see why you are referring to the lack of a collar (lapels really; the neck just has a band) on the waistcoat as a problem? A collar is not a standard waistcoat feature. In fact country tweed suits most often have the regular no-collar waistcoat. It's pretty bulky having two layers...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #61
- Forum: Suits
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About tweed suits...
It's not particularly wrong for the waistcoat to have a high opening and no collar. A no-collar waistcoat is standard. It also has 5 buttons, but the last one is unbuttoned. The back probably reflects the lining used in the coat and I'm sure they'd put in the lining the customer requires. A...- Dirk Wainscotting
- Post #57
- Forum: Suits
