Double Helix Works?

[Herrvallmo]

Any love or hate for the Innovator? I've been wanting to get a J24 type jacket and this one seems not too far from RMC's model with perhaps better measurements for me personally and half the price.

Also does anybody have any experience ordering straight from the Double Helix website? Or are there better ways? Any discount coupons going around?

Can't comment on the quality as I've never owned a DH jacket(I really like the Innovator though, looks like a great J24-repro), and after reading this thread it sure seems like DH got their stuff together

For ordering I would recommend you check out Buyee or similar Japan proxy as you often get 10% or similar coupons and you don't have to wait the 45days(if ordering directly from DH). I would only buy directly from DH if I was to change the measurement/leather of the jacket as they do offer that service.

Cheers!

 

[TartuWolf]

You could also use Juno proxy service if you're worried about import taxes (depending on where you live, I pay ~33% myself, which is nuts).
I checked some of the Double Helix jackets (including the Innovator) on their own website and boy do they run short in the body and sleeves (for my size at least). Definitely a big pass from me personally.
I also remember trying on a few of their jackets in London and was appalled by the cuts/patterns. But I'm sure it works fine for folks with certain body shapes.

 

[Herrvallmo]

(depending on where you live, I pay ~33% myself, which is nuts).

Gotta love living in the EU sometimes haha

 

[stenaloom]

You could also use Juno proxy service if you're worried about import taxes (depending on where you live, I pay ~33% myself, which is nuts).
I checked some of the Double Helix jackets (including the Innovator) on their own website and boy do they run short in the body and sleeves (for my size at least). Definitely a big pass from me personally.
I also remember trying on a few of their jackets in London and was appalled by the cuts/patterns. But I'm sure it works fine for folks with certain body shapes.

I live where you live. Would using the proxy service somehow help avoid the import taxes?

 

[TartuWolf]

Yes, using Juno helps tremendously with that. He takes a 10% commission fee but is flexible with value declaration. Obviously much more risky in terms of shipment insurance. For Estonia using Juno ends up cheaper starting from ~150-200eu.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

Thought I'd add my take on Double Helix here. I picked up this Hugging the Curve jacket about a year ago secondhand for a great price, and it's been my favorite ever since. It's my first and only Japanese leather jacket.

Good Stuff:

The leather. IMO the perfect balance… durable but lightweight; just the right amount of stiffness - it conforms to the body, takes on nice creases in the proper places, but doesn't drape or wrinkle. It developed some very nice grain early on, and that process is slowly continuing. It's teacore black, but after a year I can barely see any brown showing through, even around the zipper and cuffs. That's a plus in my book, as I was a little afraid it would age too quickly. And my god does it smell amazing.

The lining: wool tartan in the body, beefy cotton in the arms. One of my two favorite ways to line a jacket (the other being full satin/cupro).

The pattern: unlike pretty much every other jacket I've had, I like the way this fits visually from every angle, both zipped and open. Comfort-wise, despite being very form-fitting, it's supremely comfortable. I've worn it dawn to dusk on many occasions with no complaints.

Did I mention it smells amazing?

Less-Good Stuff:

The zipper. As others have mentioned, these Hookless repros are beautiful garbage. When I first got the jacket I got stuck in it… I just couldn't get the zipper to release at the bottom after unzipping. That problem got better very quickly, fortunately. After a month I never had an issue with it again, but it still takes two hands. And I still feel like I have to baby it… I've heard the horror stories, and it just feels delicate. Looks fantastic, barely functions.

The shoulder width vs the rest of the pattern. I'd love it if the shoulders were an inch wider across. Fully zipped I do feel it. Not enough to cause discomfort, but enough that I want a bit more room there. That's the Japanese standard style though from what I understand, The Flat Head excluded.

Overall, I love it dearly and enjoy watching it develop character and patina as time goes on.

This was early on, still a bit stiff:

These are how it looks now after about a year of wear:

 

[Herrvallmo]

Thought I'd add my take on Double Helix here. I picked up this Hugging the Curve jacket about a year ago secondhand for a great price, and it's been my favorite ever since. It's my first and only Japanese leather jacket.

Good Stuff:

The leather. IMO the perfect balance… durable but lightweight; just the right amount of stiffness - it conforms to the body, takes on nice creases in the proper places, but doesn't drape or wrinkle. It developed some very nice grain early on, and that process is slowly continuing. It's teacore black, but after a year I can barely see any brown showing through, even around the zipper and cuffs. That's a plus in my book, as I was a little afraid it would age too quickly. And my god does it smell amazing.

The lining: wool tartan in the body, beefy cotton in the arms. One of my two favorite ways to line a jacket (the other being full satin/cupro).

The pattern: unlike pretty much every other jacket I've had, I like the way this fits visually from every angle, both zipped and open. Comfort-wise, despite being very form-fitting, it's supremely comfortable. I've worn it dawn to dusk on many occasions with no complaints.

Did I mention it smells amazing?
Less-Good Stuff:

The zipper. As others have mentioned, these Hookless repros are beautiful garbage. When I first got the jacket I got stuck in it… I just couldn't get the zipper to release at the bottom after unzipping. That problem got better very quickly, fortunately. After a month I never had an issue with it again, but it still takes two hands. And I still feel like I have to baby it… I've heard the horror stories, and it just feels delicate. Looks fantastic, barely functions.

The shoulder width vs the rest of the pattern. I'd love it if the shoulders were an inch wider across. Fully zipped I do feel it. Not enough to cause discomfort, but enough that I want a bit more room there. That's the Japanese standard style though from what I understand, The Flat Head excluded.

Overall, I love it dearly and enjoy watching it develop character and patina as time goes on.

View attachment 688359

View attachment 688361

This was early on, still a bit stiff:

View attachment 688362

These are how it looks now after about a year of wear:

View attachment 688366

View attachment 688368

View attachment 688369

Amazing fit mate, love it!

Cheers!

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

Amazing fit mate, love it!

Cheers!

Thanks!

Oops, that reminds me, I meant to mention the fit. This is tagged a size 40. I'm right between 38 and 40 with a 39" actual chest measurement. This fits more or less like a 38, in my opinion. I'd love to have tried a 42, but as it was secondhand that wasn't an option.

 

[Herrvallmo]

Thanks!

Oops, that reminds me, I meant to mention the fit. This is tagged a size 40. I'm right between 38 and 40 with a 39" actual chest measurement. This fits more or less like a 38, in my opinion. I'd love to have tried a 42, but as it was secondhand that wasn't an option.

I would be super happy with that fit, but I do like my leather jackets to fit rather tight

 

[Jiantle]

Thought I'd add my take on Double Helix here. I picked up this Hugging the Curve jacket about a year ago secondhand for a great price, and it's been my favorite ever since. It's my first and only Japanese leather jacket.

Good Stuff:

The leather. IMO the perfect balance… durable but lightweight; just the right amount of stiffness - it conforms to the body, takes on nice creases in the proper places, but doesn't drape or wrinkle. It developed some very nice grain early on, and that process is slowly continuing. It's teacore black, but after a year I can barely see any brown showing through, even around the zipper and cuffs. That's a plus in my book, as I was a little afraid it would age too quickly. And my god does it smell amazing.

The lining: wool tartan in the body, beefy cotton in the arms. One of my two favorite ways to line a jacket (the other being full satin/cupro).

The pattern: unlike pretty much every other jacket I've had, I like the way this fits visually from every angle, both zipped and open. Comfort-wise, despite being very form-fitting, it's supremely comfortable. I've worn it dawn to dusk on many occasions with no complaints.

Did I mention it smells amazing?

Less-Good Stuff:

The zipper. As others have mentioned, these Hookless repros are beautiful garbage. When I first got the jacket I got stuck in it… I just couldn't get the zipper to release at the bottom after unzipping. That problem got better very quickly, fortunately. After a month I never had an issue with it again, but it still takes two hands. And I still feel like I have to baby it… I've heard the horror stories, and it just feels delicate. Looks fantastic, barely functions.

The shoulder width vs the rest of the pattern. I'd love it if the shoulders were an inch wider across. Fully zipped I do feel it. Not enough to cause discomfort, but enough that I want a bit more room there. That's the Japanese standard style though from what I understand, The Flat Head excluded.

Overall, I love it dearly and enjoy watching it develop character and patina as time goes on.

View attachment 688359

View attachment 688361

This was early on, still a bit stiff:

View attachment 688362

These are how it looks now after about a year of wear:

View attachment 688366

View attachment 688368

View attachment 688369

Great write-up. It's good to see another HTC owner on the lounge! There aren't many of us around.

The jacket looks amazing on you. Congrats! I haven't been able to break mine in as much but it's nice to see the potential it has to look as great as yours.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

Great write-up. It's good to see another HTC owner on the lounge! There aren't many of us around.

The jacket looks amazing on you. Congrats! I haven't been able to break mine in as much but it's nice to see the potential it has to look as great as yours.

Thanks! If I'm not mistaken, you've had some really high-end jackets from other Japanese makers. How do you feel the DH stacks up? I haven't seen or handled anything from the likes of, say, Freewheelers, RMC or Rainbow Country.

 

[Jiantle]

Thanks! If I'm not mistaken, you've had some really high-end jackets from other Japanese makers. How do you feel the DH stacks up? I haven't seen or handled anything from the likes of, say, Freewheelers, RMC or Rainbow Country.

I've owned a few of them but my experience is pretty limited since I only started this hobby over a year ago. So take this with a pinch of salt.

I think the construction quality and general fit/pattern of DH is just as good as the other high-end Japanese brands. In my opinion, where they fall short slightly is perhaps in the materials used.

To echo what you said, the Hookless zipper on my HTC also feels cheap compared to the one on a FW Mulholland. The body and sleeve linings feel rougher and not as soft on the skin. The leather also does not stand up to the Shinki that the other brands use. I'm basing my comparison on the Mulholland mostly because it's the closest in design.

Where DH really shines is the cost because you can get them at a fraction of what you'll have to pay for these other Japanese brands. So they have good value for money.

 

[Tomwiththeweather]

I've owned a few of them but my experience is pretty limited since I only started this hobby over a year ago. So take this with a pinch of salt.

I think the construction quality and general fit/pattern of DH is just as good as the other high-end Japanese brands. In my opinion, where they fall short slightly is perhaps in the materials used.

To echo what you said, the Hookless zipper on my HTC also feels cheap compared to the one on a FW Mulholland. The body and sleeve linings feel rougher and not as soft on the skin. The leather also does not stand up to the Shinki that the other brands use. I'm basing my comparison on the Mulholland mostly because it's the closest in design.

Where DH really shines is the cost because you can get them at a fraction of what you'll have to pay for these other Japanese brands. So they have good value for money.

Great info. I have a hard time even conceiving of better leather. How cool that so many makers exist on these rarified levels these days. Wasn't the case for many decades there.

 

[newtojackets]

Thought I'd add my take on Double Helix here. I picked up this Hugging the Curve jacket about a year ago secondhand for a great price, and it's been my favorite ever since. It's my first and only Japanese leather jacket.

Good Stuff:

The leather. IMO the perfect balance… durable but lightweight; just the right amount of stiffness - it conforms to the body, takes on nice creases in the proper places, but doesn't drape or wrinkle. It developed some very nice grain early on, and that process is slowly continuing. It's teacore black, but after a year I can barely see any brown showing through, even around the zipper and cuffs. That's a plus in my book, as I was a little afraid it would age too quickly. And my god does it smell amazing.

The lining: wool tartan in the body, beefy cotton in the arms. One of my two favorite ways to line a jacket (the other being full satin/cupro).

The pattern: unlike pretty much every other jacket I've had, I like the way this fits visually from every angle, both zipped and open. Comfort-wise, despite being very form-fitting, it's supremely comfortable. I've worn it dawn to dusk on many occasions with no complaints.

Did I mention it smells amazing?

Less-Good Stuff:

The zipper. As others have mentioned, these Hookless repros are beautiful garbage. When I first got the jacket I got stuck in it… I just couldn't get the zipper to release at the bottom after unzipping. That problem got better very quickly, fortunately. After a month I never had an issue with it again, but it still takes two hands. And I still feel like I have to baby it… I've heard the horror stories, and it just feels delicate. Looks fantastic, barely functions.

The shoulder width vs the rest of the pattern. I'd love it if the shoulders were an inch wider across. Fully zipped I do feel it. Not enough to cause discomfort, but enough that I want a bit more room there. That's the Japanese standard style though from what I understand, The Flat Head excluded.

Overall, I love it dearly and enjoy watching it develop character and patina as time goes on.

View attachment 688359

View attachment 688361

This was early on, still a bit stiff:

View attachment 688362

These are how it looks now after about a year of wear:

View attachment 688366

View attachment 688368

View attachment 688369

Looks really great. The leather also looks virtually new haha