Suits - Pre 1920

[Claudio]

whenever a designer takes inspiration from the past they always want to modernise it in some way:

http://www.thefashionisto.com/phine...t-suits-gotham-inspired-fall-2014-collection/

Think that is the difference between a designer and a 'replicator' (for lack of a better word)? If one gets into designing it usually is someone with lots of creativity, and thus to copy something 'exactly' like its meant to be is limiting this IMO.

That first picture could easily be well into the 20's no? Whilst the second picture is obviosuly more teens. Think the trousers are perfect and not too long (for my personal tastes) and a pet hate of mine in the more modern look (leaving out the current IGent fad that is).

 

[herringbonekid]

Think that is the difference between a designer and a 'replicator' (for lack of a better word)? If one gets into designing it usually is someone with lots of creativity, and thus to copy something 'exactly' like its meant to be is limiting this IMO.

absolutely, but creativity unchecked can lead to some pretty ugly places.

i actually think that the recent retro-interest among designers is a good thing. it's as if they've put the creative brakes on a little and thought "hmm, is what i'm about to do actually better than something that was done already?"

if it isn't then why do it ?

learning from the past is a good thing. i'd be amazed if we saw anything as horrendous as some of the 'creative' fashion disasters of the 70s reappear. i feel like we've wised up a bit.

 

[Claudio]

oh defenitely, creativity rarely results into anything nice as far as clothes are concerned. What I mainly was refering to is somethings which were done first time around could be adapted slightly for modern use, style, comfort etc. Super heavy weight fabrics for exmaple are pointless in todays heated houses and spaces. Or also putting together 2 different eras and blend them into a single style outfit can also work well in many cases (thats where the creativity comes in I guess). Being able to see past the historic acuracy and looking at the bigger picture of what one sees as 'cool'.

But yes, creativity in fashion is very often a recipe for disaster

 

[simonc]

I can't wear most new men's fashion on the basis that most of it is feminine light weight garbage. Dolce and Gabbana anyone?

 

[Hal]

... Super heavy weight fabrics for example are pointless in today's heated houses and spaces...

...most new men's fashion...is...light weight garbage...

While Simon perhaps expresses himself in a somewhat exaggerated way, the use of excessive heating is surely a cause of the "light weight" craze. On grounds of both health and environmental concern we need to turn the thermostat sharplly downwards, and this might well have a beneficial effect on the way men dress.

 

[herringbonekid]

i wear heavy (18-20oz) flannels and tweeds in Autumn/Winter and cotton and linen in the Summer. i've never found the need for lightweight wool fabrics.

(thread de-railment. let's see some more pre-20s suits).

 

[simonc]

I don't know what it is about 1918 but it has been ringing my bells for quite some time now.

 

[herringbonekid]

there's a lot of interest in the late-teens to early 20s at the moment. i don't think it's just down to the threads here on the FL either. i think it's a zeitgeist thing.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Some details on a pair of black boiled wool pants. Certainly pre 1920s. About a size 34/30 if somebody would be interested

 

[Claudio]

South Europe I have seen has more of a 'consciousness' when it comes to winter heating and it is normal to have heating turned down here (I keep 17/18c in the house in winter) where the places like Scandinavia, Germany, UK and not to mention the US the answer to cold rooms is turn up the heating (whilst in a t-shirt). This is from my experience.

Lightweight wools are great for milder winters, spring, summer (when a fromal attire is ncesessary - let's face it, cotton or linen isnt formal), at least in Italy, SPain, South France etc where the lightweight linens are made and popular.

 

[Claudio]

BRILLIANT pciture SImonc, thanks

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

Oscar Beregi Sr.
German postcard by NPG, no. 1275 Photo: Angelo, Budapest, 1918.

 

[herringbonekid]

HS&M, 1914:

1915:

 

[Dostioffsky]

From 'New supreme system' 1917.

 

[herringbonekid]

UK, mid-teens:

 

[herringbonekid]

lots of volume in these sleeveheads:

 

[Claudio]

what now would be called 'spalla camicia' or shirt shoulder. Great pciture

 

[Papperskatt]

I just bought this waist seam suit off of eBay.



I am SO excited; I'm literally jumping up and down right now. Never thought that I'd find a original.

It looks black from the pictures but apparently it's blue. I assume navy.

 

[Two Types]

Wow!

 

[simonc]

Echo that WOW!