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Boring Aero Sizing Question

mysternee

New in Town
Messages
28
Okay team, I need your help with a timeless problem: pre-order sizing anxiety!

I'm looking at a Half-Belt Deluxe from Aero. I've spoken to Holly, and I'm very happy with her sizing suggestions in terms of back and sleeve length. But I'm a little bit cagey around the chest size.

Basically, my chest is about 37", give or take. My shoulders are about 18" across, and I typically take a 38 in most things above the waist; shirts, jackets, so on. This usually results in a loose fit, which as it happens I prefer. Based on everything I've said, Holly thinks I should go for a 36. But let's face it, this is based on what I've said, and I'm an idiot. I even got my measurements wrong in the initial email, so I probably have her all kinds of confused.

I've been reading around (obsessively, obviously), trying to figure out if the 1950s cuts tend to run large, true to size, or tight. Opinions seem to vary and move around, a lot. Which, incidentally, is what I'd like to be able to do in my jacket. At the same time, I'm conscious that as I'm getting it in (brown) CXL FQHH, it's unlikely to drape if I get it a little oversized. I don't want it to look like I'm wearing a cardboard box with a hole in it.

So can you fine folks here give me any tips? Does the Aero 1950s cut tend to comfortably run large, or is it more that if you want a fitted look, you need to size down? How much room is there in the shoulders? Any and all other thoughts?

I'd really appreciate any input, as I'm very happy and settled on everything else about the jacket. Cheers in advance!
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,936
Location
London
Okay team, I need your help with a timeless problem: pre-order sizing anxiety!

I'm looking at a Half-Belt Deluxe from Aero. I've spoken to Holly, and I'm very happy with her sizing suggestions in terms of back and sleeve length. But I'm a little bit cagey around the chest size.

Basically, my chest is about 37", give or take. My shoulders are about 18" across, and I typically take a 38 in most things above the waist; shirts, jackets, so on. This usually results in a loose fit, which as it happens I prefer. Based on everything I've said, Holly thinks I should go for a 36. But let's face it, this is based on what I've said, and I'm an idiot. I even got my measurements wrong in the initial email, so I probably have her all kinds of confused.

I've been reading around (obsessively, obviously), trying to figure out if the 1950s cuts tend to run large, true to size, or tight. Opinions seem to vary and move around, a lot. Which, incidentally, is what I'd like to be able to do in my jacket. At the same time, I'm conscious that as I'm getting it in (brown) CXL FQHH, it's unlikely to drape if I get it a little oversized. I don't want it to look like I'm wearing a cardboard box with a hole in it.

So can you fine folks here give me any tips? Does the Aero 1950s cut tend to comfortably run large, or is it more that if you want a fitted look, you need to size down? How much room is there in the shoulders? Any and all other thoughts?

I'd really appreciate any input, as I'm very happy and settled on everything else about the jacket. Cheers in advance!

I wear a size 42 in most brands but a size 40 in Aero.
1950's cut tends to be pretty boxy compared to others.
I would trust Holly...
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,487
Location
Europe
Here’s the rule of thumb that works for me:

- 1930s cut: my usual size
- 1950s: one size down
- Premier Range: one size up.

E.g., my default size is 42. The above sizes will al result in an Aero with a P2P of 23“ approx., despite being tagged 40, 42, 44 respectively.

Holly‘s suggestion to go down one would be in line with my expectations. If you want to make extra sure, you can measure a well-fitting jacket and send photos to Holly.
 

mysternee

New in Town
Messages
28
I wear a size 42 in most brands but a size 40 in Aero.
1950's cut tends to be pretty boxy compared to others.
I would trust Holly...

Here’s the rule of thumb that works for me:

- 1930s cut: my usual size
- 1950s: one size down
- Premier Range: one size up.

E.g., my default size is 42. The above sizes will al result in an Aero with a P2P of 23“ approx., despite being tagged 40, 42, 44 respectively.

Holly‘s suggestion to go down one would be in line with my expectations. If you want to make extra sure, you can measure a well-fitting jacket and send photos to Holly.

That's what I've been picking up as the general rule, but I'm just curious - what kind of fit does sizing down result in, typically? Is it still a nice roomy fit, or is it then fitting/snug at the shoulders? Do you find you can still layer comfortably?
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,487
Location
Europe
That's what I've been picking up as the general rule, but I'm just curious - what kind of fit does sizing down result in, typically? Is it still a nice roomy fit, or is it then fitting/snug at the shoulders? Do you find you can still layer comfortably?

Hmm, fit is so subjective...

I will try my best here:

The 1950s patterns generally are more boxy/roomy than the 1930s. Body is more square, armholes are lower (albeit not to an extent that range of motion is impaired), arm diameter is larger. Layering should be no problem if you get the right size.
Personally I find the 1930s patterns are layer friendly too, just a little more fitted.
With the Premier patterns, shoulders get pretty narrow and the armholes are so high up that a thick jumper will bundle up at the armpits. I can layer with my Premier HWM(s), but not with my remaining Board Racer.

Hope this helps.
 

mysternee

New in Town
Messages
28
Here’s the rule of thumb that works for me:

- 1930s cut: my usual size
- 1950s: one size down
- Premier Range: one size up.

E.g., my default size is 42. The above sizes will al result in an Aero with a P2P of 23“ approx., despite being tagged 40, 42, 44 respectively.

Holly‘s suggestion to go down one would be in line with my expectations. If you want to make extra sure, you can measure a well-fitting jacket and send photos to Holly.

Hmm, fit is so subjective...

I will try my best here:

The 1950s patterns generally are more boxy/roomy than the 1930s. Body is more square, armholes are lower (albeit not to an extent that range of motion is impaired), arm diameter is larger. Layering should be no problem if you get the right size.
Personally I find the 1930s patterns are layer friendly too, just a little more fitted.
With the Premier patterns, shoulders get pretty narrow and the armholes are so high up that a thick jumper will bundle up at the armpits. I can layer with my Premier HWM(s), but not with my remaining Board Racer.

Hope this helps.

Alright, I emailed Aero with pictures of me in a couple of jackets, and as Holly was on holiday Chloe replied. She gave me the base dimensions of the 36, and on that basis I'm going to stick with Holly's advice. The 1950s 36 should have plenty of room, and I think a 38 would swamp me as it's not really going to drape or anything.

Thanks for the input and advice folks, I'll update you when it gets here!
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,822
Location
London, UK
Holly knows what she's doing with sizing and patterns. @Tom71 's rule of thumb is a pretty good guide if you can't try one on, but always check with Holly. I tend to find the key measurement that I go by if I'm unsure between two p2p sizes is the hem / waist measurement. I'd always take a little loose on the chest and shoulders over too tight to do up comfortably on the waist.

In terms of fit, the 50s HB pattern (also the base for the Bootlegger) is somewhere between the Highwayman and the 30s Slim HB.
 

mysternee

New in Town
Messages
28
Boring update: it came:

HBD.jpg


Basically brand-spanking-new here, I'll write a proper review when I've spent a bit more time in it. It's a HBD in brown CXLFQHH, and an extra chest pocket for symmetry but also because I wanted the layout to remind me of the old-reliable jacket I bought when I was a student:

oldreliable.jpg


Needless to say, that and the broad color (there are browns and there are browns) are about all these two jackets have in common!

Much thanks to everyone here who have collectively written tomes over the years, but especially @Carlos840, @Tom71, @Edward, and @handymike for their help in this very thread.
 
Last edited:

Observe

One Too Many
Messages
1,049
Boring update: it came:

View attachment 613920

Basically brand-spanking-new here, I'll write a proper review when I've spent a bit more time in it. It's a HBD in brown CXLFQHH, and an extra chest pocket for symmetry but also because I wanted the layout to remind me of the old-reliable jacket I bought when I was a student:

View attachment 613921

Needless to say, that's and the broad color are about all these two jackets have in common!

Much thanks to everyone here who have collectively written tomes over the years, but especially @Carlos840, @Tom71, @Edward, and @handymike for their help in this very thread.
Nothing boring about it! Enjoy your new jacket.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,822
Location
London, UK
Boring update: it came:

View attachment 613920

Basically brand-spanking-new here, I'll write a proper review when I've spent a bit more time in it. It's a HBD in brown CXLFQHH, and an extra chest pocket for symmetry but also because I wanted the layout to remind me of the old-reliable jacket I bought when I was a student:

View attachment 613921

Needless to say, that and the broad color (there are browns and there are browns) are about all these two jackets have in common!

Much thanks to everyone here who have collectively written tomes over the years, but especially @Carlos840, @Tom71, @Edward, and @handymike for their help in this very thread.


Looks great! Enjoy it. The extra pocket really is interesting - somehow gives it whole different look. I really like it.
 

mysternee

New in Town
Messages
28
Looks great! Enjoy it. The extra pocket really is interesting - somehow gives it whole different look. I really like it.

I typically see people removing rather than adding the chest pockets around here, and I can understand why, as they're not really 'fully-fledged' pockets, and many people prefer clean lines. But I always found them handy on my old jacket, just as extra compartments for filing away little bits and bobs without them all being stuffed into one or two pockets. At least for me, one of the best things about a leather jacket is it can remove the need for a satchel—I can carry a basic set of utility items across the whole thing.

I think aesthetically I also tend to be pro-faff; I like my coats and jackets to look like they're doing things, if that makes sense. And I think you're right that the second pocket changes the character of the first. It goes from being a kind of nod-to-formal breast pocket to being a tad more sporty or dynamic. Almost like a racer got crossed with a G-1 or Indy-style jacket.

But a lot of it was just nostalgia, honestly. I like that there's a kind of line, or continuity, between the old lambskin jacket I bought for about €100 in Limerick 15 years ago, and this one.

Superb jacket!!! Looks awesome! I like the angle kicked chest zips and the fit looks bang on perfect!

For whatever reason, even though the HBD uses the 50s pattern, the chest pockets have the angle of the 1930s HB. My guess is that the pocket angle from the 1950s HB would look a bit flat combined with the horizontal flap pockets. I think having two emphasizes the angle as well, in the same way that one of these / somehow looks less angular than a pair \/

The fit is actually perfect. With a thick Aran cardigan there's no tightness or puffy Michelin Man effect, and with a shirt it's loose and airy in just the way I like. Holly was absolutely right, the 38 would have been too big, because this is bang on. Sleeve hits me right in the middle between the wrist and the first thumb knuckle, and zipped up the front fully covers my belt but not my pockets. Absolute :chefkiss: stuff, it's worked out as well as I could have hoped for a first buy.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
24,822
Location
London, UK
I typically see people removing rather than adding the chest pockets around here, and I can understand why, as they're not really 'fully-fledged' pockets, and many people prefer clean lines. But I always found them handy on my old jacket, just as extra compartments for filing away little bits and bobs without them all being stuffed into one or two pockets. At least for me, one of the best things about a leather jacket is it can remove the need for a satchel—I can carry a basic set of utility items across the whole thing.

I think aesthetically I also tend to be pro-faff; I like my coats and jackets to look like they're doing things, if that makes sense. And I think you're right that the second pocket changes the character of the first. It goes from being a kind of nod-to-formal breast pocket to being a tad more sporty or dynamic. Almost like a racer got crossed with a G-1 or Indy-style jacket.

But a lot of it was just nostalgia, honestly. I like that there's a kind of line, or continuity, between the old lambskin jacket I bought for about €100 in Limerick 15 years ago, and this one.

Makes sense. I like that it nods to your other jacket as well - it's a touch that makes it your own. The chest pockets vary. My HWM was bought OTR so has, per the standard pattern, no inside pocket. The chest pocket on it is, however, plenty big enough for a wallet/ phone - I've not missed an inside pocket with it. My Dustbowl does have the small chest pocket. Looks nice, fits my mp3 player and/or a small wallet, though I'm glad of the inside pocket on that one.

What I'd like at some point on a halfbelt, assuming it's possible, is one of the larger angled pockets as seen on the chest of the Bootlegger. That's glorious, so practical it can take the place of an inside pocket if so inclined.



For whatever reason, even though the HBD uses the 50s pattern, the chest pockets have the angle of the 1930s HB. My guess is that the pocket angle from the 1950s HB would look a bit flat combined with the horizontal flap pockets. I think having two emphasizes the angle as well, in the same way that one of these / somehow looks less angular than a pair \/


I've seen allsorts on jackets across that period, really - angled, big, small, horizontal.... doesn't seem to be any one 'rule' when it comes to civilian gear.

The fit is actually perfect. With a thick Aran cardigan there's no tightness or puffy Michelin Man effect, and with a shirt it's loose and airy in just the way I like. Holly was absolutely right, the 38 would have been too big, because this is bang on. Sleeve hits me right in the middle between the wrist and the first thumb knuckle, and zipped up the front fully covers my belt but not my pockets. Absolute :chefkiss: stuff, it's worked out as well as I could have hoped for a first buy.

That's the beauty of a design like this. A jacket that can be worn into the Autumn with layering...
 

mysternee

New in Town
Messages
28
Makes sense. I like that it nods to your other jacket as well - it's a touch that makes it your own. The chest pockets vary. My HWM was bought OTR so has, per the standard pattern, no inside pocket. The chest pocket on it is, however, plenty big enough for a wallet/ phone - I've not missed an inside pocket with it. My Dustbowl does have the small chest pocket. Looks nice, fits my mp3 player and/or a small wallet, though I'm glad of the inside pocket on that one.

What I'd like at some point on a halfbelt, assuming it's possible, is one of the larger angled pockets as seen on the chest of the Bootlegger. That's glorious, so practical it can take the place of an inside pocket if so inclined.

Well I went with two unfastened inside pockets as well! So two large fastened pockets out front, two medium unfastened pockets inside, two small zipped pockets at the chest, and some slashes for my hands—god forbid they should have to share the space... but yeah, I don't think the small chest pockets are a substitute for the inside ones. They're grand for something like a comb, SAK, some dog-poop bags, that kind of thing. But I wouldn't want to be trying to squeeze a wallet or a modern phone in there.

As an aside, I went unfastened on the inside because I didn't want the studs showing through if they were in an unfortunate spot, but now that I have the jacket I don't think they would, the external pocket sits just in front of where the stud would be. But I have the fastened ones out front anyway, and open pockets are always more pleasant to use.

It was actually between this and the Bootlegger for me, but in the end I felt this was closer to where I was coming from and so a safer bet. Cracking looking design though.
 

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