Yet Another Highwayman Advice Request

[Troglodyte]

I hope you don't tire of these! They seem to pop up monthly, and now it's my turn.

I'm going to order a new Highwayman in the next month or two, and after doing my prep work (reading every FL thread with "highwayman" in the title), here's what I'm looking at asking Amanda for:

- General fit: Close, but not tight. I’d like to be able to wear a thin sweater under it sometimes. (Is this too contradictory to be possible?)

- Lining—Reiver 10 oz tartan, in the Black Watch pattern

- Two top zipper pockets, to keep it symmetrical

- Zippers in the "ball and chain" style

- Nickel hardware on a black FQHH

- NO storm cuffs

- Cinch straps long enough to double back over the buckle

- No rollers on the cinch strap buckles

Questions:
- Is this a reasonable configuration? Anything leap out at you as "wrong" the way I'm setting it up?

- Inner gun pockets with snaps: One lounger has mentioned that these make areas of the jacket too bulky. Anybody else have that problem? Do you recommend both sides, one side, omit altogether?

- What are the merits of vintage black FQHH versus regular black FQHH?

- What are the merits/weaknesses of a bi-swing back? What IS a bi-swing back?

- What else should I consider before pulling the trigger on this?

Obviously, these are questions of personal taste, and I'll ultimately make my own decision based on my own personal style. But with the wealth of knowledge on this forum, I'd be foolish not to consult you.

Thanks for putting up with another of these threads!

(AL should pay you royalties, or at least advertise here!)

Best,
Trog

 

[JLStorm]

As far as sizing, I cannot stress this enough. Provide aero sizing over the largest shirt or sweater you plan to wear regularly under it and let Amanda know thats what youve done. She may ask you for your sizing with just as regular shirt as well. Also let her know how you want the coat to fit, lose, regular, snug, etc.

If Amanda or Will dont like something you suggest, they will let you know...listen to what they say.

 

[buler]

I thought I had sweated over every detail when I ordered my Johnson Leather Highwayman-style jacket. After about a year the only thing I wished I had done was make the cuff diameter a little smaller. I actually did measure my hand to see how small I could go and still slip it thru, but then forgot to tell them to make the diameter smaller. I have storm cuffs so its not the worst thing. But its something I don't see mentioned much and your not getting storm cuffs.

B

 

[Peacoat]

A bi swing back gives more room in the shoulders and across the back to reach forward without binding. It is especially useful for activities such as reaching for the handlebars while riding a motorcycle. A much cleaner look across the back is achieved without the bi swing feature.

 

[bobjones]

I hope you don't tire of these! They seem to pop up monthly, and now it's my turn.

Not at all, it is very tough to have a smaller jacket like the Hwyman made to fit perfectly...I know because it took Aero 2 tries to get mine "just right."

General fit: Close, but not tight. I’d like to be able to wear a thin sweater under it sometimes. (Is this too contradictory to be possible?)

A thin sweater, like a J Crew merino cardigan would not be a problem, but for anything else, some type of compromise will be needed. You would have to understand that over a mid-weight or heavier sweater the straps would need to be let out.

Part of the fit challenge is the nature of a smaller jacket itself, as well as the Hwyman design. Meaning, it is not like one of their longer, larger coats like the Stockman which has so much more room to give and still be considered a "good fit."

Lining—Reiver 10 oz tartan, in the Black Watch pattern

I have the Modern Black Stewart, so it might be close to my choice :eusa_clap

Two top zipper pockets, to keep it symmetrical

I have one pocket only over the left breast, so look up my review thread if you are curious about how it might look. Another poster got his without any pockets, which was also interesting.

Zippers in the "ball and chain" style

Looks cool too, depends on taste - I got mine with a regular puller.

Nickel hardware on a black FQHH

Good choice, silver and black is a good combination.

NO storm cuffs

Unless you live in a very cold climate, or ride a bike, I cannot recommend them as they are VERY hot.

Cinch straps long enough to double back over the buckle

This is standard AFAIK.

No rollers on the cinch strap buckles

How will they work then? Do you have a sample pic of a set without the roller?

Inner gun pockets with snaps: One lounger has mentioned that these make areas of the jacket too bulky. Anybody else have that problem? Do you recommend both sides, one side, omit altogether?

IMHO, one should be sufficient, as it can be seen on the outside of the jacket. If you are right-handed, have one made on the left breast side, and vice versa - as a good place to stash glasses, but again, it will leave a bulge, even when empty.

What are the merits of vintage black FQHH versus regular black FQHH?

The vintage is simply a more flexible FQHH. It is made by taking the regular FQHH and rolling for a longer period of time, softening the hide somewhat.

What are the merits/weaknesses of a bi-swing back? What IS a bi-swing back?

It is when a single back is attached to the jacket body separate from the jacket frame, allowing the wearer greater ease of movement. I don't ride a bike, so I had mine made without it, and the jacket still has alot of give.

 

[gfirob]

back design

I think the bi-swing back looks awkward and damages the line of the jacket. Just my two-bits...

 

[JLStorm]

I think the bi-swing back looks awkward and damages the line of the jacket. Just my two-bits...

Agreed. I would only add it if you need it for range of motion.

 

[jacketquest]

Lots of good advice given already but here's my $0.02:

- biswing back is a functional feature but be careful with the measurements, especially if you're considering a trim fit. If the shoulders/chest area is tight, the biswing will tend to flair out (the dreaded "batwing" syndrome) even in a relaxed position which looks bad. So be sure to measure with the largest amount of layering you plan to have.

- pockets: My highwayman has one outside pocket on LHS and an inside G-1 style pocket with snap, also on LHS. I think with this configuration there is a bit of overlap of the pocket linings which shows as a small crease of the leather. If I had to do it again I would have placed the inner pocket on the RHS. If you're considering two outer and inner pockets you might want to consult with Aero about the lining overlap.

- vintage vs regular FQHH. Just an opinion that I'm not sure can be generalized since we're talking about animal hide, but I prefer the regular FQHH for its finish that is initially smooth and evenly colored. Eventually, the wear points develop creasing, graining, and color loss that is very reminiscent of vintage jackets.

BTW, mulling over the options is half the fun of buying a new jacket!

 

[STW]

...
- Two top zipper pockets, to keep it symmetrical
- Zippers in the "ball and chain" style
- Nickel hardware on a black FQHH
- NO storm cuffs
- Cinch straps long enough to double back over the buckle
- No rollers on the cinch strap buckles
Questions:
- Is this a reasonable configuration? Anything leap out at you as "wrong" the way I'm setting it up?
- Inner gun pockets with snaps: One lounger has mentioned that these make areas of the jacket too bulky. Anybody else have that problem? Do you recommend both sides, one side, omit altogether?
- What are the merits of vintage black FQHH versus regular black FQHH?
- What are the merits/weaknesses of a bi-swing back? What IS a bi-swing back?...

Bi-swing backs are like pleats folded into the rear half of the shoulder seams that unfold as you extend arms forward, and are supposed to re-fold themselves into their pleats as you bring your arms back to neutral. Leather jacket versions have never worked for me and have always had some of the problems others mention here. Others on FL swear by them. Mine without the bi-swing bunches slightly in the chest as I reach forward (to handlebars or steering wheel) which ideally a bi-swing would prevent.

My gun pocket with snap doesn't show on the front of the jacket or seem to add bulk to that side--the FQHH is so thick that the pocket doesn't make a dent, even broken in. I wish that I had gotten the gun pocket on both sides because I find I usually want to put only one thing into the pocket--for example I have my mobile phone in the pocket and want to put my sunglasses in there too but don't want them to scratch each other so separate pockets would be better. Maybe that wouldb be overkill. Also regret not getting the gun pocket on the right since I'm left handed.

Mine has chest pockets on both sides for the look which I prefer, especially in black. But these are not very useful for objects like glasses or mobile since the open zipper is tricky to get past without scratching. Meantime, I use them mainly for ticket stubs, theatre or ball game or Lisbon to Porto flight tabs, that tend to stay there for years.

Have you considered Aero's Ace Cafe line? One based on the highwayman is blacke, double chest pockets. Wonder if they allow custom options on the Ace Cafe line?

 

[STW]

...The vintage is simply a more flexible FQHH. It is made by taking the regular FQHH and rolling for a longer period of time, softening the hide somewhat...

Not sure but is the Aero vintage HH also a combination of chrome and vegetable tanning while the regular heavy FQHH is chrome tanned only?

 

[Troglodyte]

Thanks!

All of this is great info! Exactly the sort of stuff for me to ponder before ordering.

I'll mull it all over, bounce my draft version off Amanda, and place the order. I'll post pics after it comes in.

Thanks to all!

Trog

 

[bobjones]

Not sure but is the Aero vintage HH also a combination of chrome and vegetable tanning while the regular heavy FQHH is chrome tanned only?

Sorry for the delayed answer. No, the vintage is merely rolled for a longer period of time, the process is chrome tanning for both regular and vintage.

 

[STW]

Sorry for the delayed answer. No, the vintage is merely rolled for a longer period of time, the process is chrome tanning for both regular and vintage.

Thanks.

 

[eClairvaux]

My gun pocket with snap doesn't show on the front of the jacket or seem to add bulk to that side--the FQHH is so thick that the pocket doesn't make a dent, even broken in.

On my HWYman one inner pocket shows a bit on the outside and the "frame" of the chest pocket shows as well. On my cafe racer neither the inner nor the outer pockets' frame make a print or dent visible from the outside.

I personally don't mind it, but just to let you know this can happen with wear.

 

[JanSolo]

Don't know if I got you wrong here, but I wouldn't go for a ball-and-chain zip as the main zipper. I would always choose the nickel plated Aero YKK or the RiRi which is also an excellent choice. The ball-and-chain type is good for pockets. I don't know the manufacturer of that type of the zip but vintage ones or Talon replicas don't work that properly and probably don't offer that amount of longevity. I remember Will complaining about fixing broken zips under warranty, which seemed to happen quite regularly with Talons. Now he seems to be very satisfied with the Aero branded zip. I personally think that they are excellent in all aspects. Nice bell shaped die-cast puller, sturdy tape, rounded and polished teeth and the two prongs at the bottom are carefully heat sealed so no fraying to be expected.