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World's Most Popular Overcoat

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
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I'm from America, but it wasn't until I travelled abroad that I discovered the world's most popular overcoat. Oddly enough, it's almost never seen in the United States. Leave our shores, however, and you'll run into this coat again and again, from Iceland to Argentina; not to mention parts of South Africa, Italy, and practically any other place where cold weather strikes.


I'm speaking of the LODEN OVERCOAT.


Of Tyrolean origin, the Loden overcoat is one of many types of jackets made of loden cloth, a material first handwoven by peasants living in Loderers, Austria, in the 16th century. The cloth comes from the coarse, oily wool of mountain sheep and is thick, soft, and waterproof.

Loden cloth is dyed in several colors, but green -- either dark olive or forest -- is the most common. Loden overcoats (like the one below) have been worn by the Austria's military for decades; they were widely adopted by civilians only after World War II, when tens of thousands of the garments were made available as surplus. (Loden overcoats are to Austrians what khaki pants are to us.) Today, many stylistic variations of the Loden overcoat exist, but the classic cut can still be seen on men and women all over the world. Note the shoulder details, the fly front, the plaid wool lining, and the distinctive pleated back:



lodenal2.jpg


lodenal3.jpg


lodenal5.jpg


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And here is the traditional color (bad photo, alas):


pleat.jpg





In Chile, used clothing stores import vintage 1940s and '50s Loden overcoats -- both military and civilian -- from Austria and Germany. I picked one up for about $8.00 and couldn't be happier with it.


Do you have a Loden overcoat like the ones above? What do you think of it? Have you seen people wearing such a coat?


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manton

A-List Customer
Messages
360
Location
New York
I see it mostly in green. I think that is the traditional color. It's not common on the streets of Manhattan, but not so rare that it makes you turn around and stare. I have friends who have this coat in green.
 

Shaul-Ike Cohen

One Too Many
Messages
1,176
Location
.
I was close to buying a loden coat when I looked all over the world (mostly = world of the 'net) for a decent coat or cape with a tippet. I saw some, but the tippet was very short, rather a deco gadget than functional, and in a brick-and-mortar store with traditional European costumes, I had already asked if they could order one with a longer tippet for me. They couldn't, the thing was very costly, too, and so I luckily ended up a bit later with an Inverness cape.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
This seller has an excellent selection. I stopped by their store with the intentention of buying but I discovered that I didn't like the material. [huh]
 

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
So, what exactly is Loden wool? How is it processed and loomed?


Glad you asked.



"First, only the fleece of hand-picked sheep is used. The fleece is taken from the animals' flanks and shoulders, where it is in its finest form.


The fresh shearling is washed in a weak acid bath and then left to dry in an oven. The wool is sorted into a carder, equipped with a sort of pinning belt, which yields a regular roving of sorted fibers -- the so-called "faserflor". In an additional step, the fibers are dyed and, in some cases, additional wool mixtures are added: cashmere, alpaca, and/or mohair.


The roving is spun into yarn and woven. Thus begins the actual production of Loden cloth, using fulling, raising and shearing. In the fulling process , the woolen fabric is fluffed up and "felted" with the use of heat, moisture, lye and agitation. The fabric shrinks by about 25% of its original width, and is thus rendered more dense and sturdy. Then smoothened cloth is raised with the use of steel thistles. For the raising of finer fabrics, natural plant thistles are still used. The raising produces a soft, fibrous surface called a nap, wherein a layer of overlapping roughened fiber ends form a "roof tile" pattern. Shearing evenly trims this surface layer according to the purpose of the cloth. Subsequent compaction and damp heat smooth out residual creases and produce the Loden's typical smooth-as-silk touch, as well as a matte sheen."




Which begs the question:


IS THIS AN OVERCOAT, OR A FELT HAT WITH BUTTONS AND SLEEVES?



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