Won Stetson 100 off limey EBAY

[PabloElFlamenco]

Last week I was ill-inspired and hinted at a Stetson 100 with box on the UK bay. I didn't want to buy it because the hat is too small. Well, I ended up doing it and won the hat (incidentally, I was the only bidder). Size is six 'n 7/8 whereas I'm at 1/8 over seven.
So, now we're at the second stage of my project: resizing it from 54 cm to some 57 cm, some 2 sizes.
Is it feasable? I understand it is (Marcus?). I want to keep the original sweatband, so I guess it'll have to be removed, the felt stretched, and the sweatband resewn in, with a small adaptation in the rear of the hat, to make up for the difference in diameter.
I welcome any board member to make any recommendations they may, including sending the hat to the USA, which however I would like to avoid (due to the cost). I also intend to buy flowers to the Russian lady who did some work on my Bailey beater, but I want to make absolutely sure my new hat will not be ruined!
BTW, the Stetson 20 "Sovereign" I bought recently arrived from California. I'll post pictures (and apply for "open road" guild membership) asap, it's the nicest hat I have, absolutely love it!

 

[J.T.Marcus]

I did a three size stretch, recently. You're on the right track. One of the full dome stretchers is what it takes, to do the best job. If you don't have one yourself, surely there are hatters who still do. Good luck!

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

Thanks, Dr. Marcus for your sympathy and support. I believe in the value of old hats, particularly, because of the quality they intrinsically possess. Giving the matter of my "100" further maturing thought, I will first await its arrival to assess the qualities of the hat.
In case it obtains my approval (in terms of lacking in moth holes etcetera.), I believe I will go all the way and do what is necessary for a full rebuild (including resizing). However strange that may seem to you Americans (who invariably believe Europe has more "know how" in "old" crafts), it may prove to be easier to ship the hat to America (and back).
Which hatter in your opinion would have the full capacity for a true-to-period rebuild; i.e. reblocking in right size, new ribbon, re-built sweatband (using the old one), etc.? I am aware it would put me back some money, but I won't have to pay it this month... , so ...it's a unique opportunity to have a superb hat! BTW, I'm partial to the "western" look of the "open road" hat.

 

[tonyb]

I have no direct experience with the hatters to whom you'll likely be referred (Optimo, Buckaroo, et cetera), but I'm confident that what you're looking to have done is well within their capabilities. Heck, I've done it with my own hats -- this taking 'em apart and making 'em fit properly and putting 'em back together again -- and while I'm not suggesting that my work rises to the levels these pros produce, only a pro (or an avid, experienced enthusiast) would find fault with it. Of course, I've acquired some necessary equipment, but still, it isn't all that difficult.

In other words, I think you're on the right path. A too-small vintage Stetson 100 can still be a bargain even though it doesn't fit, because a C-note or more into a cleaning/resizing/rebuilding still has you in for considerably less than the hat is worth. My only caution is that you make clear in your communications with whoever does the work just exactly what you want done. If, for instance, you wish to retain the existing sweatband and ribbon (I would, if they were in good or better condition), make sure he (or she) knows that.

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

Thanks you, Tony B. - I read you very well indeed,Sir. I'm going to thread carefully in regard of this hat, one step at a time. It is very clear to me that I'll have to remain on top of the situation, but that's why I read and (try to) participate in this forum.
I spent a major part of the weekend trying to "rebuild" (I willfully do NOT use the term "restore") an old Stetson hat box. Using wallpaper, fabric tape (most of it came loose, switched to "duck tape"). Clearly not "period"! I even added a handle (from an old cardboard suitcase). But I have a nice box now for my Stetson 20 Sovereign. Let me try (again...) to post the picture

:

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[tonyb]

That's cool, Pablo. Your deliberate approach is wise, I think. Take your time and weigh your options. That hat has been around for at least half a century, I'd guess. Its seniority alone makes it worthy of such careful consideration.

That's a part of the appeal of old things. It is to me, anyway. Quality fur felt hats are fairly durable, but they are items of attire and as such they don't last forever. Those that have survived in such fine shape were accorded something other than regular, hard use over the years. Indeed, if I were to hazard a guess, it would be that those that have come down to us in essentially unworn condition did so because for the vast majority of their lives they were, well, unworn. They went out of style or the people who owned them never cared to wear them or for whatever reason they got stored in such a way that they were spared the ravages of daylight and mildew and insect larvae.

As to the boxes ... well, they're even more ephemeral. They're made of paperboard, mostly, so that they survive in anything resembling an intact condition is remarkable. I've taken to collecting vintage hat boxes, while they can still be had at prices my parsimonious self is willing to pay.

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

Here's (I hope [huh] ) some pictures of the Stetson 100 hat I'm awaiting delivery of.

 

[tonyb]

It looks like a good 'un, Pablo. I detect some signs of minor wear in those photos, but heck, I'm betting it can be made good as new.

Do you mind disclosing how much it cost you? You indicated that you were the only bidder. I'm wondering if that was because it was one of those well-hidden listings or because a high minimum scared off would-be bidders. Or if it might have been something else.

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

Well, Tony -the hat was listed on eBay UK- I paid the opening bid price of £59.99 (roughly $120) plus (too high) transport. Surely, many in the USA will consider that to be a moderate deal, at best.

In this respect, I would like to revert to an earlier remark on this forum that for us Euro-freaks, the US$ has become mere play money. Obviously, the rates of exchange at the moment are very, very distorted, which leads to the situation that, in Europe, prices for everything appear, to Americans, out of proportion. They have been very high since very long: usually American products rule of thumb would sell for 150% of the US price. But because of the high Euro and low dollar, importing into Europe (original) American products -and services- are proportionally cheap, even when adding shipping and the €10.00 charge for "customs presentation costs" (usually, no customs dues themselves are charged: cross fingers!)

How many Stetson 100's would you think there are in Europe. Ten? A hundred? Certainly very few, indeed. There simply never has been a market over here for "des chapeaux de cowboy". I have done searches on Ebay France, Germany, Belgium, UK ... hardly anything interesting there. All the hats are in the US. Any occasional interesting hats on European Ebay or other (non-auction) sites might show a bowler hat for €75.00 ($120) etc.: very expensive.

I will probably (if the hat, when received, seems to warrant it) ship my Stetson 100 to Optimo, pay whatever they charge me $100+ plus reshipping cost. It will end up being a very expensive hat. But it will be a wearable Stetson 100 hat (with a brim not too wide, which renders cowboy hats more or less "unwearable") and, as remarked my wife recently om seeing me wearing my Stetson 20 Sovereign
"Paul, you were very elegant this morning going to work" :eusa_clap
Now THAT made me feel very good, indeed!

BTW, looking at that box, I have a feeling it is not the original box. I've seen much better "Stetson 100" boxes (Samsonite?). But, I don't attach to much importance to the box; it's the hat I want.

Paul

 

[tonyb]

It's still worth it, Pablo. Easily. Just apply the "what does that much money get you in a new hat" test and you're still coming out ahead. As you observed, it's a Stetson 100, for cryin' out loud.

 

[PabloElFlamenco]

I've got the hat! As far as I'm concerned, the box is more or less toast, I'll fix it when I have time. Upon opening the box, incidentally, a cloud of extemely fine yellow (shellack???) flints snowed out of the box.

The hat is surprisingly good. Too small, of course, but ...almost impeccable...nothing that cannot be "retrieved". And...the felt: smooth and dense.

So, I sent below email (edited) to Optimo

Subject: Preliminary contact: regarding full restoration of a STETSON 100 hat

Dear Ms/Sirs,
My name is Paul Franssen, and am a member of www.thefedoralounge.com (hat) forum, known there as “PabloElFlamenco”
I have acquired a (said to be, and it sure looks to be) 1950’s vintage “Stetson 100” hat,
Present size is “7/8” (too small for me; my size is 7-1/8 = 57 cm).
It has just arrived and it is easily worth the very best treatment, and expected to be my “best hat”.
I will send the hat to you for a full restoration, as necessary to the extent you deem necessary, in which matter I trust you shall exercise your best judgment.
I would like the restoration to proceed bearing in mind the following:

Rebuilding / restoration of a 1950’s vintage “Stetson 100” hat.
This hat is to be
-cleaned (I find the hat to be in good condition, with some minor spots/stains; no moth holes/tracks as far as I can see)
-de-odorized (from present “musty” smell…)
-resized from 6-7/8 to an exact Stetson 7-1/8 size (I have found a “Stetson 20 Sovereign hat” of this size to fit perfectly)

The hat is to be rebuilt fully in accordance with the original specifications for such type of hat, modeled in line with the “open road” style of hat, with
western-style block and moderate cattleman bash.
Below picture provides a guideline of acceptable crown and brim treatment .

(inserted 1940's advertisement from page 3 of the "open road guild" thread)

-VERY IMPORTANT please! The original sweatband is to be kept (because of its’ superb quality and the fact that it has original Stetson 100 gold stamp).
Since the hat is being resized, which might cause the original sweatband to be “too short”, please provide an “adaptation” at the rear end (in similar leather) to make a nice finish. The sweatband is to be sewn in (not glued, thank you!).

The THIN ribbon and the rim-binding are to be cleaned and kept OR, if necessary, replaced by similar type of material / color as the original.

The original liner is to be cleaned and re-used (again, because of its original qualities), re-sewn in (not glued, thank you!).

My full details:
Blah blah blah...

I will let you have full shipment details as soon as the hat leaves from Belgium.

Assuring you of my respect and appreciation for the fine professional work you are known for!

Paul Franssen

 

[Justdog]

Absolutely great hat, great deal. Once cleaned and blocked it will be awesome. I think I saw a new one in Box not sure if vintage but it was listed at 1300 dollars! Anything under the sweatband.