which pea coat

[damobussi]

hi i'm from australia and was just wondering if the breman-bowden is as good pea coat as the Sterlingwear of Boston ones also are their measurements the same eg.42r would that be a same size regardless of manufacture .If i was to purchase a pre 60's coat would i have to go up a size bigger than i would wear today eg.i.m a 42r would i need a 44r as i think the older vintage 40s-60s coats were made a bit smaller thaks for any input regards damo

 

[Donny Brasco]

Sterlingwear!!!

I got one this past winter - very, very impressive fit and quality.

 

[CC-1]

comparing pea coats

Considering the many years and contractors, sizing of authentic military pea coats is pretty consistent, at least for the 6 button models. There is no question that the older coats are superior in both quality and workmanship.
This is not so much a reflection on the contractor as much as the spec which keeps changing and depreciating. An older Sterlingwear is a nicer unit than a current one and even better if it is a Vi-Mil (before the name change to Sterlingwear) IMO coats of the sixties are among the best and most of these were made by contractors who were not even identified before 1967.

That being said, the Sterlingwear Co. is the extant premier manufacturer of the pea coat for almost all the years back to late Viet Nam. It is a wonderful company with a proud, enlightened management and dedicated staff. The people work in good conditions. I have toured the plant twice (anyone can) and they are very welcoming, enthusiastic and open. (Sterlingwear does a lot more than just pea coats)
Bremen Bowden, on the other hand, has been cited as a sweatshop: http://www.behindthelabel.org/pdf/ConductUnbecoming.pdf
So if you have a social conscience, this might make a difference to you, but the BB coat may be the better when you compare the samples available to you.

Unless you intend to bundle up under your jacket, don't go up a size. The coat loses its smartness and will be less versatile when temps moderate. In mid-winter Boston the coats were warm and protective with just a cotton tee shirt and wool jumper (dress blues) underneath. It was the short hair and white sailor hat that killed you. The 8 button WW2 model doesn't close around the throat and you have to fuss with the little tab. It's a cool look though but losing its edge to the many permutations of knockoffs. The 6 button double folds over the neck and even covers part of your chin but I digress...

 

[Peacoat]

hi i'm from australia and was just wondering if the breman-bowden is as good pea coat as the Sterlingwear of Boston ones also are their measurements the same eg.42r would that be a same size regardless of manufacture .If i was to purchase a pre 60's coat would i have to go up a size bigger than i would wear today eg.i.m a 42r would i need a 44r as i think the older vintage 40s-60s coats were made a bit smaller thaks for any input regards damo

Two words: Go Vintage. See my sticky at the top of the Outerwear section. The quality of the vintage peacoats is far superior to the issue coats after 1979, as well as the civilian Sterlingwear. Sterlingwear is probably the best of the current manufacturers, but the vintage models are so much better. How do I know? because I have, or have had, all of them.

I am a 42R in a suit and that is the size peacoat I wear. It leaves enough room underneath for layering, and looks very well fitted even without layering.

CC-1 is on the money with his comments.

See my post in a recent peacoat thread--maybe the last 4 or 5 days. I have been away from the board for a few days, and things have gotten away from me.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Which Pea Coat?

The old navy blue Kerseys are the No. 1 Pea Coats. I have both the black and the old blue ones, and the old blue ones are way above the black ones. My '69 Kersey is a size 44L, and it is a tinch larger then my 1995 46L, and my 2001 46XL. I'm looking for another old blue one in size 44L. If you take a size 42R then a vintage 40R or 42R should fit you. I think a vintage 44R would be too big, but I could be wrong.