What makes a quality hat in a Fedora?

[John in Covina]

I can see some definate likes and dislikes for brands, but what is it about the QUALITY that makes one over the other? In western hats they intonate about Beaver 5X and 10X and how the more the beaver fur the better. ( Although the defenitions for an X varies from company to company.)

Some call attention to stiffness versus plyable. How does the quality show thru, via look and feel? What are we looking for in the fur felt? In the construction and the details?

John in Covina

 

[jamespowers]

First, ideally, you start with a top quality 100% beaver fur felt. It is finished to a smooth and even finish. The liner should be a high quality silk or satin material. It should be sewn in not glued in. The sweatband should be a thin and high quality roan leather. This should be sewn in and should conform to the edge in a bell fashion. If the edge is bound it should be tight to the felt and have even straight stitches. The ribbon should be a high quality grograin ribbon with a bow of the same material.
The fit and finish of the hat makes all the difference as well and just having the top quality materials means nothing without it being put together well. As I mentioned before even straight stitching. The stitching should also be hidden where possible. A final fit that makes the hat feel like you don't even have it on is nice as well.
I am sure I have left something out but there are plenty of competent people here who can fill in the rest.

Regards to all,

J

 

[Harry Lime]

Beaver or blends.

The "must be 100% beaver" argument shows up a lot here. It's not necessarily true. Many blends are equally acceptable, always have been. It has just as much to do with felting process, percentage of blend, etc. It's a more complex question and answer than saying flat out 100% beaver is best.

The western 5X, 10X, etc system means nothing. As there has never been an acceptable base currency rate incorpoarted here this is a self-made standard. It has as much validity as an advertiser sayying "new and improved," "bolder," "longer lasting," etc. (Compared to what? The same makers old stuff usually.)

About the only way to tell if felt is good quality ultimately is expreince plus time plus taste. Ultimately if it feeels like acceptable quality to you - it is. (Until you jappen upon a hat you like better.)

Harry

 

[Matt Deckard]

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=4650&page=2&highlight=quality+of+hat

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=3501&highlight=felt+quality

 

[John in Covina]

Hey Matt! Off topic.

I noticed the END OF LINE which is from Tron, the MCP MPC would end the transmission with end of line. I still occassionally use Flynn's salutation, "Greetings Programs" with friends.

I wish I hadn't written all of those tank programs.

Great another mouth to feed. YES!

He's tron he fights for the users.

Warmest regardss,

John in Covina

 

[Matt Deckard]

Try out this lightcycle game.

http://website.lineone.net/~planetride/lightcycles.htm

 

[Michael Mallory]

Quality is a subjective matter, to a certain degree. Obviously, fur felt is higher quality than wool felt, but there are degrees of fur felt, too -- rabbit, nutria and beaver, or a blend. Beaver is usually considered the highest quality. Some people like fuzzier hats (I think the proper term is "longer napped," but I might be wrong), but they don't do it for me. I like smoother finishes. Degree of softness is also a matter of taste, but I personally prefer the softer ones over the hats so stiff they might as well be helmets. My current favorite, a Cervo, is so soft it nearly collapses when not worn, but it holds its shape perfectly on the head (now...if only my head would...).

So, I can conclusively state...it's up to you. Having said that, I think I can describe some of the facets that make for a LOW quality hat...

1) Wearing it leaves a ring of color around your head.

2) It smells like that old St. Bernard you had as a kid.

3) The band boasts "100% Lab Rat Fur."

4) After long and careful study, you still can't decide whether it is a fedora, a homburg, a top hat, a derby, or a fez.

5) When you put it on in the morning it's brown; when you take it off at night it's yellow.

6) You bought it at Nordstrom's.