What leather conditioner do you use?

[Raven2k360]

I tried the "you should never condition leather" with one of my first pairs of Frye boots, guess what happened?
They stiffened, dried and cracked, and then it was too late to save them, they are now dead.

Seconded. I never conditioned my boots before and they all began cracking after two or three years tops while showing signs of drying after one year of extensive wear. They'd literally develop holes at the creases after a while.

Strange, both pairs of my flight deck boots from the Navy haven't dried/cracked. Never conditioned either pair, just the occasional coat of polish, usually only on the toe to re-blacken them. One pair is nearly 20yrs old, the other ~15yrs old. Same with the leather on my jungle boots, which are ~20yrs old too.

My Doc Martens are fine too -- and they haven't even seen polish. 2 pair of regular leather, ~10yrs old and one of those saw HEAVY restaurant duty as a server in a BBQ joint, and the 3rd pair is more of a patent leather and those are nearly 20yrs old.

I'm not sure why your guys' boots have dried out without conditioning, and I surely can't explain why none of mine have....but thought I'd share my experience.

 

[Carlos840]

Strange, both pairs of my flight deck boots from the Navy haven't dried/cracked. Never conditioned either pair, just the occasional coat of polish, usually only on the toe to re-blacken them. One pair is nearly 20yrs old, the other ~15yrs old. Same with the leather on my jungle boots, which are ~20yrs old too.

My Doc Martens are fine too -- and they haven't even seen polish. 2 pair of regular leather, ~10yrs old and one of those saw HEAVY restaurant duty as a server in a BBQ joint, and the 3rd pair is more of a patent leather and those are nearly 20yrs old.

I'm not sure why your guys' boots have dried out without conditioning, and I surely can't explain why none of mine have....but thought I'd share my experience.

That's why i said "It's all about finding out what works for your use of your leather goods."
Clearly with your use no conditioning works...

All i can think of is you don't actually wear any of these boots heavily?
I also have old army boots that i have had for 20 years and never conditioned, and they are fine, but they haven't been worn regularly in 15 years...

The Frye boots that died on me we worn daily for three years without any conditioning, and they cracked on the sides where the leather creases.

 

[zebedee]

My docs are in ridiculously good condition given their age and the fact that they've been in highly humid, irregularly-paved and/or unpaved streets, stony conditions, snow, torrential rain and crappy, polluted sand for 8 years. I just noted that a heel air chamber has cracked at one edge- if I fill it with PVA glue and chop an eraser up to fill the gap it'll be fine and dandy. They were made in Vietnam, bought in Shanghai. They've had a coat of Renapur (which autocorrects to 'Reaper' ['Altered Carbon' reference]) every 1 or 2 years.

My Caterpillar boots- dead after a year and a half. My knock-off Korean Cats lasted 7 years, no significant sole wear and only chucked away because the inner started to rot after walking about in rainy conditions for days and days. Loakes need protector soles every 1.5 years, as do Fly London boots (which I like, especially the 'Watt' type).

I'm gonna use reaper on my jackets once a year.

J.

 

[zebedee]

...just in case anyone was wondering, polystyrene cement will bond to DMs' polyurethane soles: you can lug random slices of plastic into any cracks/cavities, 'melt' it with the poly cement and then seal it with another layer. Shower sealant might work, too.

 

[Colin G]

...just in case anyone was wondering, polystyrene cement will bond to DMs' polyurethane soles: you can lug random slices of plastic into any cracks/cavities, 'melt' it with the poly cement and then seal it with another layer. Shower sealant might work, too.

Interesting. When I wore Docs a lot back in the day, my biggest gripe was the soles would start to separate under the welt area in less than a year. No glue would hold it and a hot butter knife, melting the split together worked for a bit then it split again.

That is what stopped me buying them. Soles split and they are death in the winter.

 

[zebedee]

It's not a long-term fix- more of a six-month solution. I'll go with Solovair next time, just to see. Have been very impressed with those docs on the whole.

 

[Raven2k360]

That's why i said "It's all about finding out what works for your use of your leather goods."
Clearly with your use no conditioning works...

All i can think of is you don't actually wear any of these boots heavily?
I also have old army boots that i have had for 20 years and never conditioned, and they are fine, but they haven't been worn regularly in 15 years...

The Frye boots that died on me we worn daily for three years without any conditioning, and they cracked on the sides where the leather creases.

True, I haven't worn the military boots in years, but they were worn daily for 3-4yrs each pair. Like I said, wasn't trying to shit on anyone's post...just sharing my experiences. Honestly, before this thread I'd never heard of conditioning boots...or needing to, for that matter.

 

[Robbie79]

I've seen on a Youtube video that Lexol Leather Conditioner is used for Shinki horsehide (Freewheelers) and the result looked good but I don't have any experience with it.

 

[Monitor]

I've seen on a Youtube video that Lexol Leather Conditioner is used for Shinki horsehide (Freewheelers) and the result looked good but I don't have any experience with it.

Lexol is good unless it leaves that white residue, then it's the worst thing ever because that stuff won't come off. It depends on the leather, from my observation.

 

[Gamma68]

In my experience cleaning and conditioning jackets, Lexol leather cleaner works great. But not so much Lexol conditioner. It never seems to really soak in well and leaves a film of greasy residue.

I prefer using Pecards, but different jackets respond differently, I suppose depending on the type of leather, finish, age and level of dryness.

Recently, I tried an experiment on my 1950s Rich Sher Perfecto jacket. When I first got it, the jacket was dry and parched in a few areas. I applied Pecards, which helped a lot. After a few months, it seemed a little crispy, so I went over it again with Vaseline. It softened the leather even more and left it with a deeper, darker black. Areas that once were quite light and stiff are now supple and pitch black.

I don't know if the same effect would have happened had I applied another coat of Pecards. Maybe the initial Pecards coat served as a foundation of sorts for the Vaseline. But it worked well without leaving a residue.

Vaseline is cheap and available at probably nearly every drug store in North America. I often wonder if there is any difference between Vaseline and Pecards.

 

[2jakes]

In my experience cleaning and conditioning jackets, Lexol leather cleaner works great. But not so much Lexol conditioner. It never seems to really soak in well and leaves a film of greasy residue.

I prefer using Pecards, but different jackets respond differently, I suppose depending on the type of leather, finish, age and level of dryness.

Recently, I tried an experiment on my 1950s Rich Sher Perfecto jacket. When I first got it, the jacket was dry and parched in a few areas. I applied Pecards, which helped a lot. After a few months, it seemed a little crispy, so I went over it again with Vaseline. It softened the leather even more and left it with a deeper, darker black. Areas that once were quite light and stiff are now supple and pitch black.

I don't know if the same effect would have happened had I applied another coat of Pecards. Maybe the initial Pecards coat served as a foundation of sorts for the Vaseline. But it worked well without leaving a residue.

Vaseline is cheap and available at probably nearly every drug store in North America. I often wonder if there is any difference between Vaseline and Pecards.

The only difference between these dressings and vaseline, is that they have beeswax (and other types of waxes possibly). Waxes are used because of their water proofing properties, as they remain on the leather surface. However, the downside is that the wax will leave the leather sticky, which will attract dust and dirt. Also, too much wax can inhibit the leather's ability to "breath", that is, to absorb and release the humidity in air. Thus, the leather will dry out faster.

Read more: http://indylounge.proboards.com/thread/4052/vaseline-sub-pecards#ixzz5ezPNvFiZ

 

[willyto]

I believe it was John Chapman who recommended vaseline for leather jackets once in this forum. I bought a big metal tin with it and I used it on one of my oldest leather jackets and it did wonders.

 

[Raven2k360]

In my experience cleaning and conditioning jackets, Lexol leather cleaner works great. But not so much Lexol conditioner. It never seems to really soak in well and leaves a film of greasy residue.

I prefer using Pecards, but different jackets respond differently, I suppose depending on the type of leather, finish, age and level of dryness.

Recently, I tried an experiment on my 1950s Rich Sher Perfecto jacket. When I first got it, the jacket was dry and parched in a few areas. I applied Pecards, which helped a lot. After a few months, it seemed a little crispy, so I went over it again with Vaseline. It softened the leather even more and left it with a deeper, darker black. Areas that once were quite light and stiff are now supple and pitch black.

I don't know if the same effect would have happened had I applied another coat of Pecards. Maybe the initial Pecards coat served as a foundation of sorts for the Vaseline. But it worked well without leaving a residue.

Vaseline is cheap and available at probably nearly every drug store in North America. I often wonder if there is any difference between Vaseline and Pecards.

I believe it was John Chapman who recommended vaseline for leather jackets once in this forum. I bought a big metal tin with it and I used it on one of my oldest leather jackets and it did wonders.

One of the tricks for breaking in/conditioning leather I found online doing research was to use vaseline. The process was to wet the leather with isopropyl alcohol, then rub vaseline into the hide. This came from the site of a leather shop I believe. I imagine the alcohol helps to break down the vaseline molecules and help them absorb into the hide better...at least, that's the theory in my head...lol.

 

[Monitor]

I'll also repeat what I've said before but so far the best thing I've used on leather is silicone. It really does make a difference. I know internet proclaims it to be the murderer of leather because it clogs the pores and whatever but I just can't imagine it being that simple.

Also, those flight sheepskin jackets, B3's and such, the leather on these is basically half plastic, you can't ever condition them with anything and yet they're holding up fine even after decades of hard wear.

 

[navetsea]

I read somewhere, it is actually better for the leather if the pore is clogged so their oil won't evaporate, maybe that's why some "naked leather" is faster to feel dry out than more pigmented leather, and it would be best to condition the leather when the leather is wet/ damp, so you don't over condition a spot unevenly, as the water will spread it evenly and act as protection buffer against over saturation of oil/ conditioner, and since water will evaporate, what left is evenly conditioned leather, it would be best to to condition it from the suede side if you have access to it rather than from outside, that was I read somewhere, and also in the same article it explains that patina is caused by oxidation of oil in leather conditioner, this oil can be from your hand as you handle the leather frequently, or any natural oil added to the leather like olive oil, etc leather conditioners are made of, so if preserving the look of brand new leather is needed then maybe vaseline is a better option as it won't oxidize in the leather.

 

[JMax]

I use a number of the options already mentioned but prefer Dr. Jackson’s or Chamberlain’s Leather Milk Balm. The latter is excellent for the nicks, cracking, etc. found on older jackets.

 

[Gamma68]

I use a number of the options already mentioned but prefer Dr. Jackson’s or Chamberlain’s Leather Milk Balm. The latter is excellent for the nicks, cracking, etc. found on older jackets.

Interesting. I checked out the Chamberlain’s website and see they also repair and restore leather garments. It’s noted in their posted FAQs.

 

[JMax]

Interesting. I checked out the Chamberlain’s website and see they also repair and restore leather garments. It’s noted in their posted FAQs.

With all your vintage pieces, I would give the balm a go. It has to be the healing balm as they have other products. Been using it for about a year (maybe I read about it here, who knows) and it is pretty good.

 

[scottyrocks]

I use 100% sheabutter. From wikipedia:

<<
Shea butter (/ʃiː/, /ˈʃiːə/, or /ʃeɪ/) is a fat extracted from the nut of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa). It is usually ivory in color when raw, with more processed versions being white in color. It can be yellow when a root is added to it.[1] It is widely used in cosmetics as a moisturizer, salve or lotion. Shea butter is edible and is used in food preparation in some African countries.[2] Occasionally, shea butter is mixed with other oils as a substitute for cocoa butter, although the taste is noticeably different.[3][4] >>

I've been using it on my hands for almost 20 years. I discovered it shortly after I began playing African hand drums. My first teacher had some that he let me use. I was amazed at its healing power. Also, it's the only thing I know of that can come into contact with, and not ruin, goatskin drum heads, because it is not in any way petroleum-based. It also lengthens natural skin drum head life by keeping them from drying out and splitting.

I put some into 35mm film canisters and keep one in my pocket all the time so that it softens up and becomes easier to apply. It actually heals my cracked fingertips, as opposed to just making my hands temporarily smoother, as most commercial skin products do.

I'll occasionally rub down a leather jacket, or hat sweat band, with shea butter to keep them supple.

When buying it, make sure to get 100% shea butter, and not some commercial product that shouts, 'Made with 10% real shea butter!', as the other 90% is the usual crap that I wouldn't touch to a valued piece of leather, or even my own skin, for that matter.

 

[Raven2k360]

Interesting, haven't heard about using shea butter as a leather conditioner before. I'll have to keep that in mind.