What is the correct way to describe this style?

[wiscohatguy]

Probably a newbie question, please go easy on me Perhaps someone else out there is wondering the same thing that will find your answer(s) helpful.

Basically I'm interested in a fedora with a diamond shaped crown. I have noticed in my perusing what I think of as two distinct styles for this shape. One of those is what I might describe as "cookie cutter," while the other, and my personal preference by the looks of it, appears to be more of a hand shape, unique to each hat. To be clear, when I say "cookie cutter" I'm not taking shots at any maker or any hat, it's just more of a machined look as opposed to handmade look (to my eyes). Here are examples of each style from two different makers, Hornskov and Gannon, both of whose work I enjoy very much :

So my question is this: If / when I finally decide to order a custom hat, what is the most succinct way to tell the hat maker that I would like a diamond crown more in the style of the second image? Do I just tell them hand shaped rather than blocked? Is the only difference here that the Hornskov example is a telescoped diamond, or am I on to something when I describe this style as "cookie cutter?"

Thank you!

 

[jlee562]

I don't know if it's the proper nomenclature, but I've always thought of it as a telescoped diamond. If you're not going to pop the center back out, just ask for it open crown and do it yourself.

 

[Mighty44]

You will also need a taller crown—5 1/2 or more likely 5 3/4 or 6 inches to get that effect. But that’s why we’re all here. The first hat with the lower, more tapered crown clearly doesn’t look vintage.

 

[The Lost Cowboy]

Probably a newbie question, please go easy on me Perhaps someone else out there is wondering the same thing that will find your answer(s) helpful.

Basically I'm interested in a fedora with a diamond shaped crown. I have noticed in my perusing what I think of as two distinct styles for this shape. One of those is what I might describe as "cookie cutter," while the other, and my personal preference by the looks of it, appears to be more of a hand shape, unique to each hat. To be clear, when I say "cookie cutter" I'm not taking shots at any maker or any hat, it's just more of a machined look as opposed to handmade look (to my eyes). Here are examples of each style from two different makers, Hornskov and Gannon, both of whose work I enjoy very much :


View attachment 640060

So my question is this: If / when I finally decide to order a custom hat, what is the most succinct way to tell the hat maker that I would like a diamond crown more in the style of the second image? Do I just tell them hand shaped rather than blocked? Is the only difference here that the Hornskov example is a telescoped diamond, or am I on to something when I describe this style as "cookie cutter?"

Thank you!

First, you can order a hat open crowned and then do the crease yourself. Also - something newbies don’t always realize - you can always change the crease in a fur felt hat, though some are more difficult to change than others.

As for your question, I would just send the hat maker the second photo and tell them you would like the crease to look like that.

The term ‘hand creased’ never has meant much to me. Honestly, I mostly see that term printed on hats that I feel are low quality (kind of like the term “genuine fur felt”). It’s possible this was a term that meant something like “this hat comes factory creased but you can easily change it” as opposed to a crease that is ‘sealed’ into the felt and more difficult to change. Back in the day, many (most?) hats came open crowned so the buyer got to put in their own crease, but I do have a few 1940s hats with creases that were set in at the factory and those are hard to change.

All that to say, the term “hand-creased” doesn’t convey much to me today and I’m just guessing at what it used to mean.

I hope you have a great experience with a custom order. I can tell you that Michael Gannon is an excellent communicator and will guide you through the entire process, but do not be afraid to ask any question at all of whatever hatmaker you choose.

 

[suitedcboy]

The first hat is a short enough crown that crown taper is not easy to see. The second hat is a taller crown with no taper. The taper is whether the crown "barrel" is the same size from brim the small transition for the top of the crown or does the crown get smaller as it goes up to that point where the transition from sides to top occurs. As you look at hats that have the shapes you like, take note of the taper or lack of taper. I bought a few hats that I just did not like on my head and some that looked right to me when worn. I found that I like no taper and taller crown. You can roll the top of crown down to make it shorter but you can't make it taller if it is too short for the bash you like in the crown. There are some threads on here, as well ones found through Google, that discuss some "rules" for brim size and crown size that favor your face shape and your build. You may not like the rule for your proportional hat. You do you, no hat police here. You do need to find the hat shape that will let you own the hat and wear it proudly. If you think it looks odd then you wear it differently.

 

[belfastboy]

Probably a newbie question, please go easy on me Perhaps someone else out there is wondering the same thing that will find your answer(s) helpful.

Basically I'm interested in a fedora with a diamond shaped crown. I have noticed in my perusing what I think of as two distinct styles for this shape. One of those is what I might describe as "cookie cutter," while the other, and my personal preference by the looks of it, appears to be more of a hand shape, unique to each hat. To be clear, when I say "cookie cutter" I'm not taking shots at any maker or any hat, it's just more of a machined look as opposed to handmade look (to my eyes). Here are examples of each style from two different makers, Hornskov and Gannon, both of whose work I enjoy very much :


View attachment 640060

So my question is this: If / when I finally decide to order a custom hat, what is the most succinct way to tell the hat maker that I would like a diamond crown more in the style of the second image? Do I just tell them hand shaped rather than blocked? Is the only difference here that the Hornskov example is a telescoped diamond, or am I on to something when I describe this style as "cookie cutter?"

Thank you!

Both hatters hand crease their hats. Most custom hatters block their hats 'open crown' and then hand shape them to your specs. Show a custom hatter the picture of your desired creasing and they should be able to replicate. I have a few of Gannon's hats and he is a master hatter.....you will not be disappointed. And at his price point he cannot be bested.