What happens w/hat rehab?

[budward]

Can anybody give me an idea what happens when you send your felt hat off to get rejuvenated or rehab'd or whatever we call it? I'm guessing as much or little as you want, but does original equipment--liner, sweatband, hat band--HAVE to get replaced if any particular rehabbing is done?

Bud

 

[Biltmore Bob]

I guess not....

but that is usually what needs to be replaced most often, yes? I recently had a hat refurbed by Steve Delk. He did a good job.

 

[Andykev]

It demends what you want...

Can anybody give me an idea what happens when you send your felt hat off to get rejuvenated or rehab'd or whatever we call it? I'm guessing as much or little as you want, but does original equipment--liner, sweatband, hat band--HAVE to get replaced if any particular rehabbing is done?

Bud

You have several options, and it depends on what actually is needed on the hat.

You can do a total rebuild, like what Art often does. Or you can go for a cleaning, and replace a faded ribbon. The ribbon would be the same color and size as the original. I have a beautiful Dobbs vintage hat that needed help. The felt was pristine, except there was discoloration above the ribbon, on the crown. No doubt due to being stored for a very long time in a box and holder that transferred the paper acids to the felt. I sent it to Optimo, had it cleaned, and the hat ribbon was replaced with a much wider (taller) crown ribbon. The repaced ribbon was silver, to match the hat and the bound edge (the original was the very thin Open Road type). Wow. This changed the entire look of the hat.

So, depending on the conditon of the hat, and I suggest only "refurbishing" a hat with "clean felt" (NO MOTH HOLES OR BITES).

You strip the hat, removing the liner, sweatband, and exterior trim. If the hat has a bound edge, that is usually retained. In severe cases of fading, you can have that replaced also.

The hat body is then soaked in a solvent, NAPTHA. The dirt and so on is scrubbed, then the hat is placed in a spinner to wring out the excess, and it then air dries.

The hat and crown is then spun and brushed, and reblocked. This is the time when the hat can be up or down sized. You can really have a nice hat that is too tight or loose..this it the time to remedy that.

Of course, a size change equates into a brim width change corresponding to what direction you are going, up or down.

After this, the hat receives a new sweat. Generally, this is the recommended option. However, mint sweats, with the logo and brand embossed can be reinserted. Not possible for size increased, but possible if the hat is decreased in size.

Then the ribbon is replaced, and the liner. The original liner can be replaced, This is also soaked in the Naptha with the hat body. Unfortunately, yellowing and age spots do require the hat be replaced. A good shop will sometimes take the inner top of the liner and replace the "sides " of the liner. THis takes much more work. BUT you do get to retain that "Stetson" or "Borsalino" or whater brand logo in the liner.

Lastly, the bound edge is resewn with complimentary ribbon to match the hat body. You can change this color darker or lighter, if desired. A change in color will affect the look, size, and apparent brim width of the hat.

Lastly, lastly...the final assembled had is placed in the flange, and the heated sand box (dome which presses the hat brim). This sets the brim to the desired shape.

When all is done, you have a "new hat".

Hence, a good find on Ebay, as long as the felt is not eaten, can become a gem. And the vintage felt u-s-u-a-l-l-y is better than anything modern obtainable today.

Hope this helped.

 

[budward]

Thanks, guys. Andykev, particularly for the depth of your comments and the obvious time you spent responding to my query.

Budrick

 

[badhatter]

Rehab a Vintage Panama?

Ok, here goes! I have a panama, early 50's, that is very stiff. The weaving is perfect and appears tight and there are no holes or breaks in the staw. The sweatband is toast...very brittle. I want to wash out the stiffener. What's the best way to do this? It will need reblocking I would assume. I have several blocks and rims to fit. Any help??????? Thanks!