The quick answer is that you want a grosgrain ribbon that is a blend of cotton and rayon. Usually it is 40% cotton and 60% rayon. Ribbons have changed significantly over the years so if you can find yourself some vintage grosgrain ribbon you will be better off as they are less stiff and have better workability. The pattern number for the ribbon would want to find is 50-7005 but that will be difficult to find. I am sure that others are having good success with different types of ribbon as well.
Most vintage ribbon from around 1940 or older is the best to try to find. Also the edge of the ribbon (grosgrain) should be a smooth edge, not a saw tooth for working on a hat. You could use the saw tooth edge but it may create a problem later if things snag on it and it does not sit down on the hat as well as a smooth edge ribbon.
Southern French factory, Vialaton & Martin supplied big parts of the European market for hat ribbon during most of the 20'th Century. Most of it was not cotton/rayon - it was made from silk. Vintage V&M silk ribbon is what Leon Drexler use - and it's used on the Optimo 1000's.
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