Vintage Outerwear: Threads of the Past

[tmitchell59]

50’s? Kurland/Star sportswear. I know this brand primarily from there military contracts. The civilian jackets seem less common. This one is an oddity for sure. It’s a Halfbelt design without the actual Halfbelt. Gathered elastic sides. Very sleek design and unusual front yoke. I couldn’t have drawn this one up any better. From my research it’s missing the “glove tanned” label which would indicate its cowhide. I found a label from a jacket dinnerman posted and by comparison would say it’s the same era. Loads of grain. Fit is good. Paper tag with model number and size is still in the hand warmer. Tag size 42” but measures larger than my vintage 44”s. Liner is decent, bit grubby, minus the cuffs where it’s pretty shot. I’ll see if Dena has an idea for that area. Very stoked to throw this one into the expanding vintage pile!
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Nice! Another unique Vintage jacket. What a great fit! That big Talon zipper keeps showing up, it is the key to dating these jackets. I have not figure it out yet and they don't show up on dinnerman's list.

 

[ton312]

Nice! Another unique Vintage jacket. What a great fit! That big Talon zipper keeps showing up, it is the key to dating these jackets. I have not figure it out yet and they don't show up on dinnerman's list.

Thanks Terry! I suspect that’s a 70’s/80’s era replacement. I’ve had those installed as stock hardware on Vanson jackets from the 80’s. I’m thrilled with the fit!

 

[tmitchell59]

Cross post from another thread, but a good look at various Sears Fieldmaster labels.

I've seen Fieldmaster and Oakbrook labels on identical jackets.

 

[tmitchell59]

I hadn't seen many with BOTH Hercules AND Fieldmaster on the label........ These other labels like the Fraternity Prep etc. are very interesting. They seem to maybe predate the Hercules label???? That Frat Prep label has the Hercules Palm Trees....... Never seen that brand

The Fraternity Prep jackets are all student sized, but don't all have Made in California

The Hercules name and label go back to the 1930s. This is one is one a jacket labeled 1933. These are the oldest Hercules labels I have found.

I believe this Adjustable Inner Collar is a patent of Roughwear Clothing Co. I don't know if they licensed their use or made the jackets for Sears. I'm thinking they made the jackets for Sears since it does not show up often.

This is a seldom seen label

 

[tmitchell59]

Fieldmaster seems to be first used in the 1955 Catalog with one jacket. In 1956 it grows to this. These jackets appear to have a standard 50s Hercules label.

Fraternity Prep seems to first used in 1956

 

[JMax]

50’s? Kurland/Star sportswear. I know this brand primarily from there military contracts. The civilian jackets seem less common. This one is an oddity for sure. It’s a Halfbelt design without the actual Halfbelt. Gathered elastic sides. Very sleek design and unusual front yoke. I couldn’t have drawn this one up any better. From my research it’s missing the “glove tanned” label which would indicate its cowhide. I found a label from a jacket dinnerman posted and by comparison would say it’s the same era. Loads of grain. Fit is good. Paper tag with model number and size is still in the hand warmer. Tag size 42” but measures larger than my vintage 44”s. Liner is decent, bit grubby, minus the cuffs where it’s pretty shot. I’ll see if Dena has an idea for that area. Very stoked to throw this one into the expanding vintage pile!
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Your label looks like the transition from the Star/Kurland label in my Sportclad to the later(?) Kurland label you posted. The Kurland I am waiting on has that later label but the lining is bright yellow. It’s an aviator/d pocket style in a brown cowhide. I hope it fits. It’s stuck in Chicago right now.

 

[tmitchell59]

 

[ton312]

Your label looks like the transition from the Star/Kurland label in my Sportclad to the later(?) Kurland label you posted. The Kurland I am waiting on has that later label but the lining is bright yellow. It’s an aviator/d pocket style in a brown cowhide. I hope it fits. It’s stuck in Chicago right now.

Too bad it can’t stop by for a visit. LOL. Might get permanently stuck
The leather on these is really spectacular. Mega nutty grain. Looks very much like Aero’s jerky HH. Bright and shiny, thick. Great stuff!

 

[JMax]

Too bad it can’t stop by for a visit. LOL. Might get permanently stuck
The leather on these is really spectacular. Mega nutty grain. Looks very much like Aero’s jerky HH. Bright and shiny, thick. Great stuff!
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There is a good chance it won’t fit me. Too small. I took a flier bc it had a bin for under $100. It’s spoken for if that is the case, but if that falls through…

 

[Marc mndt]

mc jackets from the 50s

Same era, different continents

Made in Germany vs made in USA

 

[tmitchell59]

mc jackets from the 50s

Same era, different continents

Made in Germany vs made in USA

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Nice.

 

[tmitchell59]

Scully Brothers-Leather and Heather

 

[jonbuilder]

50’s? Kurland/Star sportswear. I know this brand primarily from there military contracts. The civilian jackets seem less common. This one is an oddity for sure. It’s a Halfbelt design without the actual Halfbelt. Gathered elastic sides. Very sleek design and unusual front yoke. I couldn’t have drawn this one up any better. From my research it’s missing the “glove tanned” label which would indicate its cowhide. I found a label from a jacket dinnerman posted and by comparison would say it’s the same era. Loads of grain. Fit is good. Paper tag with model number and size is still in the hand warmer. Tag size 42” but measures larger than my vintage 44”s. Liner is decent, bit grubby, minus the cuffs where it’s pretty shot. I’ll see if Dena has an idea for that area. Very stoked to throw this one into the expanding vintage pile!
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Was Kurland a jacket retailer like Sears and Pennys? I think I remember Jmax mentioned the Kurland label with a non-labeled jacket that looks to be a Sportclad jacket. I purchased this non-labeled jacket and am very pleased.
My real question is did Sportcald make jackets for the Kurland label?

 

[ton312]

Was Kurland a jacket retailer like Sears and Pennys? I think I remember Jmax mentioned the Kurland label with a non-labeled jacket that looks to be a Sportclad jacket. I purchased this non-labeled jacket and am very pleased.
My real question is did Sportcald make jackets for the Kurland label?

Great questions Jon. Wish I had an answer. Only thing I (think) I know for sure is that Star Sportswear built these jackets in Minnesota. I feel like I remember seeing that on some labels. I could be wrong. If they were sold through retail outlets like Penny’s…I’m not sure.

 

[JMax]

Great questions Jon. Wish I had an answer. Only thing I (think) I know for sure is that Star Sportswear built these jackets in Minnesota. I feel like I remember seeing that on some labels. I could be wrong. If they were sold through retail outlets like Penny’s…I’m not sure.

Agreed. I always thought Star Sportswear made some of their jackets under a Kurland and/or Sportclad label. And Sportclad was a Penney’s outfit, like Hercules or Oakbrook was to Sears.

 

[JMax]

Label in my MC jacket- note Star, Kurland and Sportclad all represented.

 

[tmitchell59]

40s Vintage Horsehide All Weather Police jacket out of San Francisco. Detachable Collar and Relined by Dave Sheely. Beautiful Horsehide. This is a fav among straight zip Police Styles. The leather is so comfortable.

 

[handymike]

That's a real beauty, Terry!

 

[tmitchell59]

That's a real beauty, Terry!

Yes, it is. Just a bit too small for my current girth.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

40s Vintage Horsehide All Weather Police jacket out of San Francisco. Detachable Collar and Relined by Dave Sheely. Beautiful Horsehide. This is a fav among straight zip Police Styles. The leather is so comfortable.

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spectacular! The milk chocolate collar with black leather rules the earth!!!!