Vintage G1 Mil Spec jacket - worth buying or not?

[Aleksio]

As already stated in the title, I have a chance of buying genuine Mil Spec G1 jacket for €200, but I am not sure if it's worth it? I know that G-1 MIL-J-7823E series of jackets dated from 1969 to present, but I don't know how can I determine by the label from which exact year the jacket was made. Can somebody assist me with that? I also read that after the 70s to this day material went mostly downhill, some are even made from cowhide instead of goatskin and mouton collar can sometimes be nasty acrylic. I know it is hard to tell from pictures I attached but could somebody here who is more experienced determine if the leather is high quality, what type of hide it is and if the collar fur is real? Furthermore, I know that you can still get nice quality wise G1 jacket from 7823E series, but I am not sure If this jacket would fall into that category.

 

[Peacoat]

In 1971 or 72 the E series was introduced and persists until today. The spec was opened up to allow the use of cowhide (vs. the goatskin of all of the earlier jackets). Additionally, the fake fur in the collar was continued. As a result, while these make good wearers, they are not collectible.

This jacket is probably cow with an acrylic collar. Unless the jackets are rare where you are, I wouldn't pay 200 € for it.

 

[El Marro]

I would pass on that G-1 and look for something a bit older. The original jackets had black labels with gold stitching (they went to the white and black labels in 1973) and that is what I would be looking for.
Anything from the E series will have the synthetic Dynal collar, and that does not have to be a dealbreaker if it is in good shape. The problem with the synthetic collars is that they get ratty and funky with hard wear whereas the real mouton ones bleach out and look cool, unless they have ravaged by moths…
Keep your eyes peeled for a Star Sportswear G-1 from the late 60s, the goatskin was thicker and nicer than the later jackets and the collar will almost certainly be real mouton.

 

[Peacoat]

To elaborate on what El Marro wrote:

The C series are often considered by collectors to be the last of the "good" jackets, as they are the last to universally have the mouton collars.

The D series still had the goatskin and many, but not all, replaced the mouton collar with fake fur.

And the E series, as I stated above, allowed cowhide and the fake fur. Not all E series have cowhide, but unless the jacket is in hand, it is difficult to determine.

 

[Aleksio]

Thanks a lot, both of you, I learned a lot more that I originally knew. I read yesterday some more history of G1 and you are correct, will pass on this one. Maybe one more question regarding G1, I have another options for around €200, it's not MIL SPEC, but it's US Wings G1. Would you think €200 would be a good deal for that type of brand? I know it is not Aero Leather and so on, but for a beater, what do you think? Peacoat how could I determine in person if the leather is goatskin or lambskin?

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks a lot, both of you, I learned a lot more that I originally knew. I read yesterday some more history of G1 and you are correct, will pass on this one. Maybe one more question regarding G1, I have another options for around €200, it's not MIL SPEC, but it's US Wings G1. Would you think €200 would be a good deal for that type of brand? I know it is not Aero Leather and so on, but for a beater, what do you think? Peacoat how could I determine in person if the leather is goatskin or lambskin?

I don't know anything about US Wings, so I won't venture an opinion.

Lambskin is very soft and has no form. Because it is soft, it is easily torn, and I question whether it should be used for any jacket.

Goat can be worn for years and doesn't develop a patina. I have an early 60s G-1 that has been well worn, but it has no patina.