Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

[abone]

Anyone take delivery of a Vanson recently in their Z150 leather? Working on a custom Oxford with TB and deciding between comp weight, Z150 or Bainbridge, all in black.
I’m curious how the current Z150 looks.

 

[Canuck Panda]

If you're going through TB, I would go with Bainbridge. The Vanson stock leathers you can just get from Vanson directly, but custom jackets with custom leather seems to be through retailers only.
And I've tried on a Z150 Chopper before and if I remembered it correctly it was just like current CW but a bit thinner.

 

[ton312]

Anyone take delivery of a Vanson recently in their Z150 leather? Working on a custom Oxford with TB and deciding between comp weight, Z150 or Bainbridge, all in black.
I’m curious how the current Z150 looks.

I personally would skip bainbridge, it feels and looks a bit like couch leather. I liked it at first, but grew to hate it. It's also relatively thin.

 

[abone]

@ton312 I was hoping you’d chime in as I knew you’d had experience with Bainbridge.
What about Z150? Any comments?

@Canuck Panda I’m modifying the jacket in a few areas and didn’t want to do that through Vanson directly. I know TB’s will deliver what I want.

I’d pretty much decided on comp weight but then saw a pic of Z150 and it looked like CXL, got me wondering.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Custom jackets best to go through retailers like TB. I only have luck getting OTR directly but never custom directly.

Maybe TB can shoot you a pic of their stock Vansons in z150 leather and Bainbridge for comparison.

 

[ton312]

@ton312 I was hoping you’d chime in as I knew you’d had experience with Bainbridge.
What about Z150? Any comments?

@Canuck Panda I’m modifying the jacket in a few areas and didn’t want to do that through Vanson directly. I know TB’s will deliver what I want.

I’d pretty much decided on comp weight but then saw a pic of Z150 and it looked like CXL, got me wondering.

I last had a Z jacket in around 2019, I liked the hide. It was considerably softer than previous batches, but nice heft. I believe @Guppy has the jacket now. perhaps he can chime in on its development.

 

[abone]

@Canuck Panda I have pics of Z150 and it looks outstanding. Pics can be deceiving however and don’t illustrate the feel, heft of the leather. I do have relatively recent comp weight in a Chopper and like it. But I’ve seen pics of recent comp weight I wasn’t too sure about. Again, without handling the leather it’s difficult. I lean towards heavier hide.
@ton312 Thanks! Hopefully we hear back from him.

 

[Canuck Panda]

Vanson Oxford (B with a snap down dress collar), from the early 2000s, I assume, from what I see on their catalog, in horsehide:

About the horsehide. It's waxy stiff. But softens as it warms up, similar to Horweens CXL FQHH, but this Vanson stuff is blacker, no brown, just deep black all the way through. It's neither thin or thick, I'd say about 3oz but feels thicker because of the wax. Very quality hide imo, no less than what Horween can offer.

It does get grainy in some panels. And I believe this is one of the main reason for discontinuing it. Same with the current CW. From what I gather, there are still bunch of grainy ones at their factory, they just don't use. Outside this forum, most people would consider too much grain to be a bad thing.

About sizing. Same width as current patterns. But these older ones are shorter by about an inch, in the body and sleeve. Works out perfectly for me though as I do find the new ones on the longer side.

These older ones also has more topstitching than current B based jackets. The shoulder seams are not topstitched now. These old ones still were.

Size 42 is about 48" around the chest, and 44" around the hem, 46" around the waist without cinch but can cinch down to 42". Generous torso room. But same high arm holes as all other B models. So downsizing while in theory could work, the arm pit might not be comfortable.

The high arm holes are comparable to Japanese size 42 or Aero STF size 42, very high armholes. Normal armhole in this size range is actually about 12", one inch lower.

Fit:

I do suspect that Vanson is still sitting on some of these horsehide in their leather inventory. If anyone visits their factory please ask them about it. It may be too grainy and rustic for the general public but perfectly fine and desired, by me at least. Even though it's probably a bit thinner than the heavy heavy comp weight, the horsehide is a lot denser and feels more robust. Really nice hide without going the name brand route like Horween. I don't know how much these used to retail but on the used market now they are reasonable, just under what a brand new CW Vanson would cost. With the better hide and more topstitching and the shorter lengths, I'd prefer these older ones.

 

[Tom71]

Vanson Oxford (B with a snap down dress collar), from the early 2000s, I assume, from what I see on their catalog, in horsehide:

View attachment 507785 View attachment 507786 View attachment 507787

About the horsehide. It's waxy stiff. But softens as it warms up, similar to Horweens CXL FQHH, but this Vanson stuff is blacker, no brown, just deep black all the way through. It's neither thin or thick, I'd say about 3oz but feels thicker because of the wax. Very quality hide imo, no less than what Horween can offer.

It does get grainy in some panels. And I believe this is one of the main reason for discontinuing it. Same with the current CW. From what I gather, there are still bunch of grainy ones at their factory, they just don't use. Outside this forum, most people would consider too much grain to be a bad thing.

About sizing. Same width as current patterns. But these older ones are shorter by about an inch, in the body and sleeve. Works out perfectly for me though as I do find the new ones on the longer side.

These older ones also has more topstitching than current B based jackets. The shoulder seams are not topstitched now. These old ones still were.

Size 42 is about 48" around the chest, and 44" around the hem, 46" around the waist without cinch but can cinch down to 42". Generous torso room. But same high arm holes as all other B models. So downsizing while in theory could work, the arm pit might not be comfortable.

The high arm holes are comparable to Japanese size 42 or Aero STF size 42, very high armholes. Normal armhole in this size range is actually about 12", one inch lower.
View attachment 507788

Fit:
View attachment 507789 View attachment 507790 View attachment 507791 View attachment 507792

I do suspect that Vanson is still sitting on some of these horsehide in their leather inventory. If anyone visits their factory please ask them about it. It may be too grainy and rustic for the general public but perfectly fine and desired, by me at least. Even though it's probably a bit thinner than the heavy heavy comp weight, the horsehide is a lot denser and feels more robust. Really nice hide without going the name brand route like Horween. I don't know how much these used to retail but on the used market now they are reasonable, just under what a brand new CW Vanson would cost. With the better hide and more topstitching and the shorter lengths, I'd prefer these older ones.

Great pickup! What you say about the hide only enhances my reservations about the current selection of house-leathers (of course, back in the day you still had access to their „old comp weight“, so it’s a bit „apples and oranges“ for me).

Anyway, this could really get me to place an order: Vansons great patterns AND a great hide. Dare to dream…

 

[ton312]

Vanson Oxford (B with a snap down dress collar), from the early 2000s, I assume, from what I see on their catalog, in horsehide:

View attachment 507785 View attachment 507786 View attachment 507787

About the horsehide. It's waxy stiff. But softens as it warms up, similar to Horweens CXL FQHH, but this Vanson stuff is blacker, no brown, just deep black all the way through. It's neither thin or thick, I'd say about 3oz but feels thicker because of the wax. Very quality hide imo, no less than what Horween can offer.

It does get grainy in some panels. And I believe this is one of the main reason for discontinuing it. Same with the current CW. From what I gather, there are still bunch of grainy ones at their factory, they just don't use. Outside this forum, most people would consider too much grain to be a bad thing.

About sizing. Same width as current patterns. But these older ones are shorter by about an inch, in the body and sleeve. Works out perfectly for me though as I do find the new ones on the longer side.

These older ones also has more topstitching than current B based jackets. The shoulder seams are not topstitched now. These old ones still were.

Size 42 is about 48" around the chest, and 44" around the hem, 46" around the waist without cinch but can cinch down to 42". Generous torso room. But same high arm holes as all other B models. So downsizing while in theory could work, the arm pit might not be comfortable.

The high arm holes are comparable to Japanese size 42 or Aero STF size 42, very high armholes. Normal armhole in this size range is actually about 12", one inch lower.
View attachment 507788

Fit:
View attachment 507789 View attachment 507790 View attachment 507791 View attachment 507792

I do suspect that Vanson is still sitting on some of these horsehide in their leather inventory. If anyone visits their factory please ask them about it. It may be too grainy and rustic for the general public but perfectly fine and desired, by me at least. Even though it's probably a bit thinner than the heavy heavy comp weight, the horsehide is a lot denser and feels more robust. Really nice hide without going the name brand route like Horween. I don't know how much these used to retail but on the used market now they are reasonable, just under what a brand new CW Vanson would cost. With the better hide and more topstitching and the shorter lengths, I'd prefer these older ones.

Horrible fit. I’ll take it.

 

[Will Zach]

Vanson Oxford (B with a snap down dress collar), from the early 2000s, I assume, from what I see on their catalog, in horsehide:

View attachment 507785 View attachment 507786 View attachment 507787

About the horsehide. It's waxy stiff. But softens as it warms up, similar to Horweens CXL FQHH, but this Vanson stuff is blacker, no brown, just deep black all the way through. It's neither thin or thick, I'd say about 3oz but feels thicker because of the wax. Very quality hide imo, no less than what Horween can offer.

It does get grainy in some panels. And I believe this is one of the main reason for discontinuing it. Same with the current CW. From what I gather, there are still bunch of grainy ones at their factory, they just don't use. Outside this forum, most people would consider too much grain to be a bad thing.

About sizing. Same width as current patterns. But these older ones are shorter by about an inch, in the body and sleeve. Works out perfectly for me though as I do find the new ones on the longer side.

These older ones also has more topstitching than current B based jackets. The shoulder seams are not topstitched now. These old ones still were.

Size 42 is about 48" around the chest, and 44" around the hem, 46" around the waist without cinch but can cinch down to 42". Generous torso room. But same high arm holes as all other B models. So downsizing while in theory could work, the arm pit might not be comfortable.

The high arm holes are comparable to Japanese size 42 or Aero STF size 42, very high armholes. Normal armhole in this size range is actually about 12", one inch lower.
View attachment 507788

Fit:
View attachment 507789 View attachment 507790 View attachment 507791 View attachment 507792

I do suspect that Vanson is still sitting on some of these horsehide in their leather inventory. If anyone visits their factory please ask them about it. It may be too grainy and rustic for the general public but perfectly fine and desired, by me at least. Even though it's probably a bit thinner than the heavy heavy comp weight, the horsehide is a lot denser and feels more robust. Really nice hide without going the name brand route like Horween. I don't know how much these used to retail but on the used market now they are reasonable, just under what a brand new CW Vanson would cost. With the better hide and more topstitching and the shorter lengths, I'd prefer these older ones.

That is a great fit. Outstanding. If you had to have only one jacket, this could easily be it.

 

[abone]

@Canuck Panda
Wow! That is one nice jacket, well done!

You mentioned a couple things I’d like to follow-up on:

*Vanson still have horsehide available…is that an assumption or did someone at Vanson tell you that?
*The current Oxford doesn’t have as much top stitching finish. Have you seen a recent example like this?
I’m in the process of ordering a custom Oxford via TB so will want to ensure it’s top stitched, and of course would love to know if HH is an option.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Canuck Panda
Wow! That is one nice jacket, well done!

You mentioned a couple things I’d like to follow-up on:

*Vanson still have horsehide available…is that an assumption or did someone at Vanson tell you that?
*The current Oxford doesn’t have as much top stitching finish. Have you seen a recent example like this?
I’m in the process of ordering a custom Oxford via TB so will want to ensure it’s top stitched, and of course would love to know if HH is an option.

The horsehide availability is my assumption. It doesn't hurt to ask. I made the assumption knowing the makers will always keep some extra material around, especially if they offer repairs, in Vanson's case they do repairs.
Edit: Regius visited the Vanson factory not long ago and he told me they still the grainy thick comp weight leather there in the factory, not horsehide, but the "old" cw, which is just grainy thicker cw.

I misspoke I'm sorry, it was my most recent "Wolverine" jacket. My 2000s oxford and my 2022 model B has the double stitched shoulder seam, but not my 2023 Wolverine jacket. It could be just a design thing, but they are all really just model B jackets so I was expecting them.

2023 Wolverine shoulder seam: No double stitch, could just be design I do not know for sure.

2022 Model B and 2021 Model E, double stitched everywhere:

early 2000's oxford, again double stitched shoulder seams:

 

[abone]

@Canuck Panda
Ok thanks for the follow up and confirmation.

Had me worried as I sure didn’t want to find out about top stitching when my jacket arrives in the fall.

Regarding HH, I spoke to Mike van der Sleesen a couple years ago when I was buying Chopper and asked specifically about HH and he said no, it’s gone and no plans to bring it back unfortunately.
My Oxford custom is spec’d with comp weight currently. Had difficulty finding current info on recent Z150, wasn’t keen on Bainbridge and Carrie said the latest batch of comp weight is very good.

Btw, we live close by, I’m in Richmond.

 

[Canuck Panda]

@Canuck Panda
Ok thanks for the follow up and confirmation.

Had me worried as I sure didn’t want to find out about top stitching when my jacket arrives in the fall.

Regarding HH, I spoke to Mike van der Sleesen a couple years ago when I was buying Chopper and asked specifically about HH and he said no, it’s gone and no plans to bring it back unfortunately.
My Oxford custom is spec’d with comp weight currently. Had difficulty finding current info on recent Z150, wasn’t keen on Bainbridge and Carrie said the latest batch of comp weight is very good.

Btw, we live close by, I’m in Richmond.

That's a bummer about the horsehide. It was really good.

Oxford is good. I am sure you're gonna get a great custom build.

There's quite a few of us Canucks here to my surprise. haha.

 

[Aloysius]

I misspoke I'm sorry, it was my most recent "Wolverine" jacket. My 2000s oxford and my 2022 model B has the double stitched shoulder seam, but not my 2023 Wolverine jacket. It could be just a design thing, but they are all really just model B jackets so I was expecting them.

Wrong. They have the same/a similar pattern, but the details are different. The Wolverine doesn't have a top stitch there. The Oxford and Comet do.

@Canuck Panda
Ok thanks for the follow up and confirmation.

Had me worried as I sure didn’t want to find out about top stitching when my jacket arrives in the fall.

Regarding HH, I spoke to Mike van der Sleesen a couple years ago when I was buying Chopper and asked specifically about HH and he said no, it’s gone and no plans to bring it back unfortunately.
My Oxford custom is spec’d with comp weight currently. Had difficulty finding current info on recent Z150, wasn’t keen on Bainbridge and Carrie said the latest batch of comp weight is very good.

Btw, we live close by, I’m in Richmond.

The new comp weight is beautiful and very grainy. Most of the comp weight jackets I saw there were full of appealing vintage style grain.

 

[abone]

Wrong. They have the same/a similar pattern, but the details are different. The Wolverine doesn't have a top stitch there. The Oxford and Comet do.


The new comp weight is beautiful and very grainy. Most of the comp weight jackets I saw there were full of appealing vintage style grain.

View attachment 512112

Holy Crap, I want that!

 

[ton312]

Holy Crap, I want that!

Me too!

 

[TREEMAN]

Me Three !

 

[abone]

The Oxford I have spec’d with TB has some minor changes. Still waiting for confirmation but it goes like this:

*comp weight, black
*move chest pocket from left to right side
*chest pocket slanted Enfield style
*red plaid lining
*double ended zip
*brass hardware
*remove centre seam on back panel
*two inside pockets, one horizontal left side, one vertical right side

Haven’t got a delivery yet but I’m expecting this fall sometime