Vanson! Vanson! Vanson!

[ton312]

Too many to share in one go, because swatches are apparently another area where Vanson over-delivers, so I’ll start with the Roma leather.

View attachment 518579

From left to right, these are:

Brandy Roma, Whiskey Roma, Rust Roma, Merlot Red Roma, Olive Green Roma, Granite Grey Roma

OMFG that olive green

 

[Mawashi]

Too many to share in one go, because swatches are apparently another area where Vanson over-delivers, so I’ll start with the Roma leather.

View attachment 518579

From left to right, these are:

Brandy Roma, Whiskey Roma, Rust Roma, Merlot Red Roma, Olive Green Roma, Granite Grey Roma

Wow those are stunning, what a bunch of really decent looking leathers! The rust and something that looks like a tan at the top left is really interesting to me but wow on some of the other colours too!

I hope Kim sends me these samples too cos I had mentioned that I wanted only black and brown but having seen these other samples I am keen to see what else is available !

 

[abone]

Too many to share in one go, because swatches are apparently another area where Vanson over-delivers, so I’ll start with the Roma leather.

View attachment 518579

From left to right, these are:

Brandy Roma, Whiskey Roma, Rust Roma, Merlot Red Roma, Olive Green Roma, Granite Grey Roma

Granite Grey Roma, wow!
Does Vanson provide details for each swatch, like thickness for eg?

 

[Aloysius]

Granite Grey Roma, wow!
Does Vanson provide details for each swatch, like thickness for eg?

No but I can measure these and average their thicknesses to get an average for Roma.

 

[abone]

No but I can measure these and average their thicknesses to get an average for Roma.

That would be great, thanks!

 

[mumpy]

I am considering to get a brand new Vanson Oxford 9D and was wondering if anyone has handled the latest competition weight? I heard it is pretty good but no direct experience. Does anyone have any photos of it?

 

[Aloysius]

I am considering to get a brand new Vanson Oxford 9D and was wondering if anyone has handled the latest competition weight? I heard it is pretty good but haven't seen any photos of it or anything.

It's stunning. Photo taken by me at the Vanson factory a few weeks ago.

I saw tons of jackets, especially black ones, like this. It has me considering ordering one in this weekend's sale as well.

 

[mumpy]

It's stunning. Photo taken by me at the Vanson factory a few weeks ago.

I saw tons of jackets, especially black ones, like this. It has me considering ordering one in this weekend's sale as well.

Wow that looks amazing. Thanks for pointing this out.

 

[mumpy]

I am finding conflicting information regarding the sizing of the Oxford 9D. I am around 177cm and 75-78kg. Chest size is 39.5/40 inches or so.

I wear a tag size 40 in the Schott 613SH.

What tag size do you recommend for the Oxford 9D? Is the quilted lining thick? I am leaning towards a 40.

Looking at this size chart[1] under Model B the P2P looks to be around 23.5 inches which is excessive for a 40. I guess this chart is not accurate. I've seen other people report the PTP closer to 22.5 inches which makes more sense.

I intend to wear this in winter as well so a relatively thick sweater is a must. At 5 inches of chest ease this is easily possible I think.

[1] https://www.bisontrading.ca/size-charts#Vanson Leathers

 

[Canuck Panda]

I am finding conflicting information regarding the sizing of the Oxford 9D. I am around 177cm and 75-78kg. Chest size is 39.5/40 inches or so.

I wear a tag size 40 in the Schott 613SH.

What tag size do you recommend for the Oxford 9D? Is the quilted lining thick? I am leaning towards a 40.

Looking at this size chart[1] under Model B the P2P looks to be around 23.5 inches which is excessive for a 40. I guess this chart is not accurate. I've seen other people report the PTP closer to 22.5 inches which makes more sense.

I intend to wear this in winter as well so a relatively thick sweater is a must. At 5 inches of chest ease this is easily possible I think.

[1] https://www.bisontrading.ca/size-charts#Vanson Leathers

I have the 9D in size 42. If I measure around the chest it's what Vanson says, 42+6.5=48.5. However, if I just put the tape to the flatten jacket, it's only about 23". The side seams are quite curved to hide the excess leather. So the 40 will have 46.5" around the chest.
9D (and all model B based patterns) chest east 6.5"
Royal Enfield / slimfit Enfield chest ease 5.5"
Continental fit / Model A based patterns chest ease 4.5"
I think the continental fit will be most similar to Schott's slim slim fits. I want a model A with a dress collar...
The quilted lining is not thick, it's just lofty, no different than Schott's quilted lining.

 

[mumpy]

I have the 9D in size 42. If I measure around the chest it's what Vanson says, 42+6.5=48.5. However, if I just put the tape to the flatten jacket, it's only about 23". The side seams are quite curved to hide the excess leather. So the 40 will have 46.5" around the chest.
9D (and all model B based patterns) chest east 6.5"
Royal Enfield / slimfit Enfield chest ease 5.5"
Continental fit / Model A based patterns chest ease 4.5"
I think the continental fit will be most similar to Schott's slim slim fits. I want a model A with a dress collar...
The quilted lining is not thick, it's just lofty, no different than Schott's quilted lining.

Thanks that's very useful info.

What does chest ease mean here? Does it mean for a regular fit at tag size 40, there should be a difference of 6.5 inches between real chest size and jacket circumference at the chest?

 

[Aloysius]

I would be very, very uneasy about taking a measurements-based approach with Vanson, except maybe for hem width.

Frankly I find it misleading in general and it betrays a lack of understanding of how patterns are drafted or garments constructed. It's particularly so when it comes to Vanson whose patterns are, for lack of a better term, extremely three-dimensional.

My Comet (tagged 42) measures 23 PTP, I have a 40" chest, and the chest looks just about skintight on me. There might be a pic earlier in the thread; I'll find it, but the point is there is more to these patterns.

 

[mumpy]

I would be very, very uneasy about taking a measurements-based approach with Vanson, except maybe for hem width.

Frankly I find it misleading in general and it betrays a lack of understanding of how patterns are drafted or garments constructed. It's particularly so when it comes to Vanson whose patterns are, for lack of a better term, extremely three-dimensional.

My Comet (tagged 42) measures 23 PTP, I have a 40" chest, and the chest looks just about skintight on me. There might be a pic earlier in the thread; I'll find it, but the point is there is more to these patterns.

Yeah that makes sense. Just trying to minimise room for error as I am ordering overseas with a proxy service. So basically impossible to return.

 

[Aloysius]

Yeah that makes sense. Just trying to minimise room for error as I am ordering overseas with a proxy service. So basically impossible to return.

I would say to buck TFL advice to always err on the side of smaller rather than larger. Case in point, the super-slim Comet I mentioned is a tag size up from my chest. This surprised me based on how people here talk about Vanson.

With all the Vansons I tried on, the best fitting ones (I discovered later) had ~6" of chest ease, regardless of tagged size. I don't know why this is the sweet spot but I assume it means they calibrate their patterns around it (and as we all know, patterns are Vanson's forte, so I wouldn't second guess it). That 6" chest ease Vanson fits closer than jackets I have with 2 or 4 inches of chest ease.

 

[Aloysius]

You should check measurements to confirm there's the 6"~ or so, more so than the tagged size, especially since you mention a proxy so if you're ordering Japan market goods the tags might be weird anyway, @mumpy.

EDIT: Couldn't find a pic on TFL of my Comet so here it is:

 

[mumpy]

You should check measurements to confirm there's the 6"~ or so, more so than the tagged size, especially since you mention a proxy so if you're ordering Japan market goods the tags might be weird anyway, @mumpy.

EDIT: Couldn't find a pic on TFL of my Comet so here it is:

View attachment 521207

Amazing looking comet!

I measured my chest again, it is exactly 40 inches. I am getting around 6.5 inches of chest ease with tag size 40 with the Oxford 9D. Can't go wrong I think based on the information provided here. I think I will pull the trigger tonight.

Thanks for the info guys!

 

[Aloysius]

Amazing looking comet!

I measured my chest again, it is exactly 40 inches. I am getting around 6.5 inches of chest ease with tag size 40 with the Oxford 9D. Can't go wrong I think based on the information provided here. I think I will pull the trigger tonight.

Thanks for the info guys!

Excellent, just double check that this 40 measures like the western 40 in case your proxy is in Japan. Then you’re good to go.

The Comet is fantastic! The only drawback is that I’ve realised I’m not really a cafe racer person so it mostly hangs there for me to admire the now discontinued Octagon leather.

 

[abone]

I have a Vanson Oxford (9D) in a 42. Whidbey cowhide which is 1.5mm thick, same as Comp Weight. Carrie at TB assures me it’s their standard 42 measurements, no changes. Hope this helps @mumpy. I’ve got a custom Oxford on the way and used these measurements. Fits me perfectly at 5’10, 180, 42” chest, longish arms.

 

[mumpy]

I have a Vanson Oxford (9D) in a 42. Whidbey cowhide which is 1.5mm thick, same as Comp Weight. Carrie at TB assures me it’s their standard 42 measurements, no changes. Hope this helps @mumpy. I’ve got a custom Oxford on the way and used these measurements. Fits me perfectly at 5’10, 180, 42” chest, longish arms.

Looks reasonable for a 42, thanks for providing the pictures. This reassures me that 40 is probably the size for me.

 

[ton312]

Looks reasonable for a 42, thanks for providing the pictures. This reassures me that 40 is probably the size for me.

Here’s my fully measured 9D:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-comp-weight-oxford-9d-40”.106005/