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That sleeve grain is just like my most prized Cal. Stunning. This is a definite keeper.
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Vanek Leather Clothing
- Thread starter Angel
- Start date
That sleeve grain is just like my most prized Cal. Stunning. This is a definite keeper.
Claybertrand
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,548
Killer jacket. Just from the pics it OOZES quality. Congrats.
I wrote to Engelbert Vanek last week and asked if they are doing repairs and about making a jacket for me.
He replied that repairs are no problem and they have a lot of different leathers to choose from for a new jacket. And he's looking forward to meet me in his workshop and discuss everything when the lockdown is over.
I was after an used Elmc Highwayman, but the seller just does not respond so I'm planning to have a mix of a CHP and Austrian Police jacket made.
He replied that repairs are no problem and they have a lot of different leathers to choose from for a new jacket. And he's looking forward to meet me in his workshop and discuss everything when the lockdown is over.
I was after an used Elmc Highwayman, but the seller just does not respond so I'm planning to have a mix of a CHP and Austrian Police jacket made.
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- 16,842
You absolutely need to document this! I plan on going to Austria this year and would love to make a detour to Vanek shop, if possible.
I asked if they could repair and reline one of their old jackets, but I think they would work on other brands too.
I will!
But I think we have to be patient, for me at least until mid February. I hope travelling will be possible again!
Today I took the chance and visited Engelbert Vanek!
First of all, Engelbert is a very friendly, welcoming man with a lot of stories to tell.
His workshop is located inside the house were he lives with his family, on the first floor, you enter through the main door what makes it a very "private" experience.
We talked a lot, for over one hour.
My plan was to bring a jacket for minor repairs and relining and maybe get measured for a bespoke jacket. For the new jacket, I wanted something like the police jacket, with added zipped handwarmer pockets in a great leather (like @Robbie79 's). Should have looked like an Austrian version of the Chp jacket.
So I brought my three jackets and the first big surprise was: only one was made by them!
The oldest one was made by an unknown maker. He told me that this style was very popular in the 50's and was made by some companies in Austria including Vanek.
They still have got the original pattern, from this @Robbie79 's was made.
The hide is cowhide, sourced from a local tannery that does not exist anymore.
Most, if not all, tanneries in Austria closed because of the cheap leather coming from the east.
He would have made the repairs on my jacket, but told me to leave it as it is.
Relining would have cost me about 130€ and I will fix the problems with a few stitches and just wear it, so the original liner can be saved.
He also has got one of these jackets still in the shop, but way too large for me.
Next to it, you see a jacket made from newer leather.
He told me (and showed me) that he has one leather that he uses for his new (black) jackets, good and solid quality but nothing really special.
My second jacket was also not made by them, it may have been a custom (maybe a policeman?) order from another maker who copied the design.
Engelbert could immediately tell the differences because they got 30 pages off specs for the contract where every stitching and detail was specified.
Since it is too tight for me he offered to set in some side panels, but it would have been a elaborate surgery. So I will leave it as it is, wear it with just a T-shirt and keep it for my son (or daughter).
The last one, from the 70's, he said it's a great fit, only the bottom hem is too tight.
So he will now sew in new, larger panels at the hem.
He quickly cut out all the old panels and all the straps, because: "I know how they were made".
And then measured the new ones.
So I will get a custom fit with the old jacket.
Engelbert told me that nowadays, they earn their money mostly with upholstery jobs.
They are making seats for motorcycles and are working with the local carpenters. Clothing sector is going down. Since you can get cheap leather jackets everywhere, no one is willing to pay for the cost of labour here. And they are not aiming at the high end market, they produce not fancy, but quality products.
To be continued....
First of all, Engelbert is a very friendly, welcoming man with a lot of stories to tell.
His workshop is located inside the house were he lives with his family, on the first floor, you enter through the main door what makes it a very "private" experience.
We talked a lot, for over one hour.
My plan was to bring a jacket for minor repairs and relining and maybe get measured for a bespoke jacket. For the new jacket, I wanted something like the police jacket, with added zipped handwarmer pockets in a great leather (like @Robbie79 's). Should have looked like an Austrian version of the Chp jacket.
So I brought my three jackets and the first big surprise was: only one was made by them!
The oldest one was made by an unknown maker. He told me that this style was very popular in the 50's and was made by some companies in Austria including Vanek.
They still have got the original pattern, from this @Robbie79 's was made.
The hide is cowhide, sourced from a local tannery that does not exist anymore.
Most, if not all, tanneries in Austria closed because of the cheap leather coming from the east.
He would have made the repairs on my jacket, but told me to leave it as it is.
Relining would have cost me about 130€ and I will fix the problems with a few stitches and just wear it, so the original liner can be saved.
He also has got one of these jackets still in the shop, but way too large for me.
Next to it, you see a jacket made from newer leather.
He told me (and showed me) that he has one leather that he uses for his new (black) jackets, good and solid quality but nothing really special.
My second jacket was also not made by them, it may have been a custom (maybe a policeman?) order from another maker who copied the design.
Engelbert could immediately tell the differences because they got 30 pages off specs for the contract where every stitching and detail was specified.
Since it is too tight for me he offered to set in some side panels, but it would have been a elaborate surgery. So I will leave it as it is, wear it with just a T-shirt and keep it for my son (or daughter).
The last one, from the 70's, he said it's a great fit, only the bottom hem is too tight.
So he will now sew in new, larger panels at the hem.
He quickly cut out all the old panels and all the straps, because: "I know how they were made".
And then measured the new ones.
So I will get a custom fit with the old jacket.
Engelbert told me that nowadays, they earn their money mostly with upholstery jobs.
They are making seats for motorcycles and are working with the local carpenters. Clothing sector is going down. Since you can get cheap leather jackets everywhere, no one is willing to pay for the cost of labour here. And they are not aiming at the high end market, they produce not fancy, but quality products.
To be continued....
Thanks for posting this! I am definitely going there when travelling is easier, and pretty sure @Monitor as well!
Are you planning to get a custom jacket?
Good stuff. So your jacket with the gun straps at the hem was not made by Vanek? I always thought that was your coolest one.
No, I gave up the custom jacket idea because he has no other leathers. Only the dyed though cowhide. He is altering the 70's jacket for a good fit and I'm happy with that one.Thanks for posting this! I am definitely going there when travelling is easier, and pretty sure @Monitor as well!
Are you planning to get a custom jacket?
It was not made by them. The gun straps must have been the idea of a policeman. The gun was supposed to be carried on the belt. He said the jacket is not built with the specs they had to fulfill in their contract.
But it is a great jacket! The leather is also different, not dyed through and with great patina.
Cornelius
Practically Family
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- 715
- Location
- Great Lakes
Always fascinating to peek into shops like this - thanks for visiting and sharing with us!
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I would suspect he would be happy to work with leather we supply?
Cornelius
Practically Family
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- Location
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...and so it begins! Eagerly await this thread's development.
Robbie79
Call Me a Cab
- Messages
- 2,163
@Angel Thank you for sharing details on your visit at EV! These small family run businesses (and friendly owners) should be more supported...hopefully they will change their business strategy after @monitor’s and red devil’s visit and will also re-enter the high quality Leather jacket business. In my opinion their jackets are at least as good as Aero or SB even if I have only handled one of their jackets so far.
Good to know that my jacket is made of cowhide but unfortunately they no longer offer this leather as it’s a fantastic leather. Nevertheless I‘m considering to sell it (not yet decided) as I do have too many black leather jackets in similar styles. Knowing that this leather jacket is rare to find makes me thinking to keep it
Good to know that my jacket is made of cowhide but unfortunately they no longer offer this leather as it’s a fantastic leather. Nevertheless I‘m considering to sell it (not yet decided) as I do have too many black leather jackets in similar styles. Knowing that this leather jacket is rare to find makes me thinking to keep it
What was really special about Engelbert is that he is a very humble man.
He's not sad about how things changed. It felt like it's not a big difference for him if he's making a leather jacket or a motorcycle seat. He has a pragmatic approach to his work, like a carpenter who's building a bed on one day and a table the other day. When I admired the skills needed for building a jacket, here's what he said: "Well, you need a sewing machine that is powerful enough".
He's also not into fancy leathers. He told me that only dyed through leathers are used for jackets anymore because you would see every scratch with other leathers. But he also said that he likes the way leather ages and is no fan of artificially aged leathers.
But I am curious what he could do with a nice batch of Shinki or Italian horsehide. So go for it @red devil!
He's not sad about how things changed. It felt like it's not a big difference for him if he's making a leather jacket or a motorcycle seat. He has a pragmatic approach to his work, like a carpenter who's building a bed on one day and a table the other day. When I admired the skills needed for building a jacket, here's what he said: "Well, you need a sewing machine that is powerful enough".
He's also not into fancy leathers. He told me that only dyed through leathers are used for jackets anymore because you would see every scratch with other leathers. But he also said that he likes the way leather ages and is no fan of artificially aged leathers.
But I am curious what he could do with a nice batch of Shinki or Italian horsehide. So go for it @red devil!
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- 16,842
I appreciate this infinitely. Let's hurry up with at least few orders before it's all gone.
