US SUITS VERSUS EUROPEAN SUITS IN 1920s

[NICHOLASEDITOR]

Hello! My name is Nicholas, and I'm editing a memoir written back in the 1920s. There's a passage I'm having trouble with, and I thought the folks at The Fedora Lounge could lend a hand.

The writer is on a ship, and visits another passenger in his cabin. He writes that he could tell the other fellow, a Dutchman, spent time in the U.S. because his suits were "half-lined". My questions are:

What is the definition of "half-lined"? I've had suits before that had lining that didn't extend completely through either the jacket or pants; were they half-lined?

Why would it be obvious to the writer that the suits were American by their being half-lined? Was this a typically American thing back in the 1920s? Is it still the case today? What does it say about American suits? Is that a mark of inferior or superior craftsmanship?

Any help you can provide in this matter will be most appreciated.

Best,

Nicholas

 

[Baron Kurtz]

also known as skeleton lined, it apparently helped with the american summers. Here's one stolen from one of Matt Deckard's posts way long ago. This one has more lining than typical. Usually the lining covers the two front panels from shoulder to hem only.

And one of mine, dated 1940. note on this one how the top of the back region is not lined, just thin strips of lining joining up at the centre of the collar:

I have yet to see a euro jacket so lined, but i would imagine that euro belt back suits have it.

bk

 

[herringbonekid]

I have yet to see a euro jacket so lined, but i would imagine that euro belt back suits have it.

i've yet to see a european belt-back suit jacket in person (not counting norfolk jackets or ones made in the 70s) but i would think they would only be half-lined if they were summer weight. Ben posted a fully lined one here...

http://thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=10087&page=34

basically, half-lined suit jackets in England (and i suspect most of northern europe) are very rare. almost non-existent. it does not denote superior craftsmanship. yes, taped seams are trickier than non-taped seams, but that does not mean that all half-lined jackets are superior to all fully-lined jackets.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

There was talk elswhere on the FLounge a while ago about the virtues of half-lining an action back/bi-swing/pleated back/belt back etc. jacket . It was suggested that putting in a full lining completely destroyed the functionality of such sports-oriented features. I don't know enough about it to comment.

My DB plus-twos belt back suit is partially lined, but then, it's american.

bk

 

[Tomasso]

it does not denote superior craftsmanship. yes, taped seams are trickier than non-taped seams, but that does not mean that all half-lined jackets are superior to all fully-lined jackets.

I agree. It simply adds a little time ($) to the making of the jacket. Though, it is interesting that most people think that a partial lining is a sign of inferior quality.