Unlined sleeve zippers (or why is the Himel Kensington the coolest jacket ever)

[Monitor]

Okay, so having an unlined sleeve zippers - especially unlined sleeve zippers located at the top of the sleeves - is probably the most useless and a least practical feature you can have on a leather jacket. I mean, it's counter-functional.

It's also the coolest. By far.

So! My question is, how's this working out in real life? Is it worth the cool? Technovox says he actually prefers having the sleeve zips being done that way on his Kensington but I'm curious to hear some more comments & opinions from members who have had experience with unlined sleeve zips.

 

[ton312]

I had a Schott perfecto anniversary jacket with this style cuff. I liked the look but didn't care for how the sleeve ends would "dangle" when open. Probably not an issue with a more stout hide tho. I've always thought the sleeve zip on top of the sleeve looked cooler and is more practical should you need to open or close while scooting

 

[IXL]

I too have a Schott with gussetless sleeve zips. The feature can actually be useful if one wants to zip the sleeve over the cuff of a glove, which some prefer, as it keeps rain from running down and into ones gloves. This won't really apply to ape hangers.
My wife refers to this particular Schott as my "cool" jacket.

 

[Superfluous]

Himel's Kensington is uber cool. That said, I prefer lined sleeve zippers. Exposed zippers destroy watches. Himel will line the Kensington upon request.

 

[Dinerman]

That's how it's been on a couple of my vintage cafe racers. I much prefer it, a neater fit without the slop of the inside panel.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The Schott 660 cafe racer - a variation on a J200 style - doesn't have them either. Wearing it I don't notice.

 

[Cyber Lip]

I always wear the zippers open all the way, except for when it's cold, so not sure the unlined would work for me. The unlined look only works with the sleeves mostly zipped IMO. All the way open and they'll hang off like skin peeling off a chicken leg when you lift your arms, with the zips on top like that

 

[BobJ]

I'm just the opposite of Cyber Lip - when I had my café racer (AMF Harley), I always wore the zippers closed, except when I was warm and wanted to ventilate a little. I like the idea of gussetless sleeve zips because they can be very cooling when you're active. I'm quick to button/unbutton, zip/unzip every opening on my jacket as the weather or my activity level changes.

 

[Monitor]

lol chicken leg peeling skin is what I'm worried about also, and sleeves are eventually going to get pliable enough for the sleeve ends to dangle, even on the jackets made from the stoutest of hides. Still, it's not that anyone's going to walk around like a Frankenstein's monster for that to become a serious issue? I'm actually surprised to hear this much love for the gussetless sleeve zips! I think I'm gonna try this out!

That's how it's been on a couple of my vintage cafe racers. I much prefer it, a neater fit without the slop of the inside panel.

Dinerman, which ones? I've only seen this on... Eh, I can't even remember. Kehoe? AMF?

 

[devilish]

I have a vintage Edgo that has unlined sleeve zips. Can't say I have a preference really. When the weather is warm it does lend a little cooling help though.

 

[Clothes Horse]

Regardless of preference those are sure some great looking Jackets!

 

[technovox]

Dinerman, which ones? I've only seen this on... Eh, I can't even remember. Kehoe? AMF?

Kehoe has lined sleeves (at least on the two I own.) And AMF/Harleys. But vintage Cal Leathers has the open sleeves. That's the only other cafe racer I've seen open sleeves on. Dinerman?

 

[ton312]

Kehoe has lined sleeves (at least on the two I own.) And AMF/Harleys. But vintage Cal Leathers has the open sleeves. That's the only other cafe racer I've seen open sleeves on. Dinerman?

I think you're right. My Cal was open but did have about a 1" strip on one side of the open cuff. A mini wind flap if you will.

 

[Guppy]

Okay, so having an unlined sleeve zippers - especially unlined sleeve zippers located at the top of the sleeves - is probably the most useless and a least practical feature you can have on a leather jacket. I mean, it's counter-functional.

It's also the coolest. By far.

So! My question is, how's this working out in real life? Is it worth the cool? Technovox says he actually prefers having the sleeve zips being done that way on his Kensington but I'm curious to hear some more comments & opinions from members who have had experience with unlined sleeve zips.

I have many motorcycle jackets with zippered cuffs. All but one are lined. My Langlitz Cascade being the lone jacket with unlined.

I never called this a "lining", but thought of it as a web. I greatly prefer the webbing, from a safety standpoint, for two reasons:

1) Zipper teeth biting into flesh is possible without the lining.
2) In the event the zipper fails in a wreck, there's still the thin web of leather keeping the sleeve together, hopefully keeping your forearm covered.

I hope I never have to test these theories!

From a more practical standpoint, when the cuffs are lined, you can leave the zippers open, which allows some airflow that can help cool you down on a hot day. Zipped up they keep the wind out, and also fit tighter, making the leather more likely to stay put if you're skidding along the tarmac on your arms.

The only downside is that the web of leather can be a bit uncomfortable bunched up when the zipper is closed.

Unlined, you really can only wear them zipped up all the time. The only advantage is that without the web, the sleeve can be that much tighter, fit better, and be more comfortable.

I think as far as looks go, it's better looking when cuff zippers are open, for much the same reason it looks better to not button the top button on a shirt. I generally leave them that way at all times, unless I'm riding and want to keep the wind out.

 

[ButteMT61]

I'm with @Dinerman on this one. Gussets make for more fuss and bulk I don't want/need.

 

[navetsea]

I like gussetless zip on slim fitting sleeve, just not on the top , because rain will seep in, when unzipped the sleeve ends will dangle, and when you spec the sleeve to be long enough for bike riding (past down your wrist) chances the opening will catch on your thumb and twist the whole sleeve every time, more risk to accidentally scratch or get caught by objects around you.

so if you want to have it, make sure you get the sleeve not too long, and thicker hide.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I'll take the sleeve 'gussets' every time. No thanks to dangling sleeves and pinching zips.

 

[Monitor]

Kehoe has lined sleeves (at least on the two I own.) And AMF/Harleys. But vintage Cal Leathers has the open sleeves. That's the only other cafe racer I've seen open sleeves on. Dinerman?

technovox, would you happen to know which CR has sleeve zippers on top (not sure whether they're gusseted or not) and slanted chest pockets? Everything else is very much the same as on any standard Brooks, full action back, main zip not going all the way to the bottom hem, etc. Also, how's Kehoe quality / weight wise?

Man, so many brands were making basically the exact same jacket... I wonder what the original was? Brooks?

 

[technovox]

technovox, would you happen to know which CR has sleeve zippers on top (not sure whether they're gusseted or not) and slanted chest pockets? Everything else is very much the same as on any standard Brooks, full action back, main zip not going all the way to the bottom hem, etc. Also, how's Kehoe quality / weight wise?

Man, so many brands were making basically the exact same jacket... I wonder what the original was? Brooks?

The few jackets I've owned with sleeve zippers on top have been: Kehoe, DD J100, Himel Kensington, (and a custom Johnson Leathers.) Zippered sleeves on top are definitely a rarer feature.

I've seen one early (and rare) Kehoe with slanted pockets. The steerhide on my Kehoes is some of the softest and most pliable leather I own…more of a medium type weight (approx. 2.75 oz), and a perfect wearable leather for more moderate climates. As far as leather quality, I would place the Kehoes a notch above the Brooks that I’ve owned. The Brooks leather is stiffer. I’ve always thought that for the money, the vintage Kehoes are a relative bargain. The only thing I don’t like about them is the full action back.

 

[ton312]

Brimaco did it with gussets as well. Can be seen on this terra cotta jacket I previously owned.