TWEEDFEST 2018 PART I: 19 Tweed Jkts, sizes 36-44; Harris tweed, Camelhair, Zegna Cashmere, vintage+

[tweedydon]

TWEEDFEST 2018!

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I'll be listing a whole slew of beautiful tweeds over the next few days, starting with at least 20 today! They'll be in sizes from c.36 to c.54, and will include lots of Harris Tweeds, 3/2 sacks (both recent and vintage), an Orvis shooting jacket, some gorgeous custom-made tweeds in Zegna cashmere, English bespoke from the oldest family-owned firm in London, and more!

As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING IN THE USA; International inquiries are very welcome, with shipping at cost!

Also as always ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!​

Now let the tweedy fun begin!​

 

[tweedydon]

1) Orvis Half-Belt Tweed Shooting Jacket.

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Tagged 44L. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+3)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 32 1/4

Orvis are well-known for their classic, functional sporting clothing, and this jacket is a lovely example of their wares. Cut from a lovely mid-weight tweed in a mossy houndstooth pattern, this is a traditional shooting jacket.

featuring a half-belt back, this has a pleated bi-swing back for ease of movement in the field, especially when tracking quarry with your gun. It has a single center vent, a contemporary two button front, and three button cuffs; all of the buttons are leather-covered and metal-shanked, as is traditional. The jacket is half-canvassed and fully lined. It also features an ornamental throat latch and suede elbow patches on each sleeve.

This lovely jacket was Made in the USA and is in absolutely excellent condition. Ready to give you decades of wear, whether in the field shooting, tramping through the Maine woods, or walking the dogs on a weekend on Boston Common, this is a bargain at

just $49, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost!

 

[tweedydon]

STUNNING!

Pair of beautiful Custom-tailored tweeds, cut from gorgeous Zegna cashmere.

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3) Custom-tailored Zegna Cashmere Tweed jacket with Bracken and Chestnut overchecking.

c. 38, 40S. Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 29

This jacket--and its brother, which will be posted next--are absolutely gorgeous!

Made by Brothers Preta (a very old-school family-owned Italian custom tailors in Fairlawn, NJ) this gorgeous jacket is cut from absolutely exquisite Zegna cashmere from Inner Mongolia. This fabric is cashmere as it used to be--thick, soft, and luxurious, not the thin stuff that is so plentiful in mall stores today.

The patterning and colouring of the cloth do full justice to its quality--a wonderful base of brown and dark rich cream in a twill weave, with a wonderful Autumnal overcheck in rich chestnut and bracken. This cloth is truly beautiful--my pictures don't do it justice at all!

The quality of the jacket also does justice to the cloth. Cut as a contemporary two-button jacket with subtle darts, this is replete with handwork throughout. It is unvented--in Flusser-approved style--and features two deep patch pockets on the front. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined, and is a bargain at just

$65, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the US. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!







4) Custom-tailored Zegna Cashmere Tweed jacket in flecked mossy herringbone, with Dark Berry Red and Sky Blue Overchecking

Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 28 3/4

This jacket--and its brother, which has just been posted--are absolutely gorgeous!

Made by Brothers Preta (a very old-school family-owned Italian custom tailors in Fairlawn, NJ) this gorgeous jacket is cut from absolutely exquisite Zegna cashmere from Inner Mongolia. This fabric is cashmere as it used to be--thick, soft, and luxurious, not the thin stuff that is so plentiful in mall stores today.

The patterning and colouring of the cloth do full justice to its quality--a wonderful base of mossy-green herringbone flecked through with dark lichen, with a beautiful overcheck in dark berry red and sky blue. This cloth is truly beautiful--my pictures don't do it justice at all!

The quality of the jacket also does justice to the cloth. Cut as a contemporary two-button jacket with subtle darts, this is replete with handwork throughout. It is unvented--in Flusser-approved style--and features two deep patch pockets on the front. It is fully canvassed, and fully lined, and is a bargain at just

$65, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the US. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!

 

[tweedydon]

4) ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!

Camelhair Tweed Jacket, woven in Scotland!​

c. 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 3/8
Length: 32

In absolutely immaculate condition, this gorgeous camelhair jacket is cut from a beautifully soft barleycorn camelhair (woven in Scotland) with a lovely dark cream and light honey overcheck. This is a truly beautiful jacket!

It is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. All of its buttons are leather-covered and metal-shanked.

This was Union made in the USA by Guildhall Clothes for Ratcliff & Schwartz, the now-defunct traditional clothiers of Harrisurg, Pa..

This jacket is in immaculate condition; I suspect that it has never been worn! It does have a small weave fault on the front if you know where to look; this does NOT present as a flaw, but some of the honey-coloured cloth was woven slightly outside the stripe for an inch or so. Again, you're unlikely to see this unless you know just where to look--I've included pictures!

Asking just $49, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.

5) BEAUTIFUL Harris Tweed Jacket

In Blue-Charcoal Barleycord with Overchecking!​

Tagged 40L (c. 40, 42). Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 32

This is another gorgeous Harris Tweed! Made recently for the British store Marks & Spencer this is a truly lovely Harris tweed! The base is a wonderful Royal Blue and Charcoal grey barleycorn weave, accented with subtle flecks of cream, and with an overcheck in slate grey and berry red. This is a really beautiful and versatile jacket!

It is cut as a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. True to its British heritage it has twin vents; it is also fully lined, and features metal-shanked buttons.

It is in absolutely excellent condition, and is a real bargain at just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost!

 

[tweedydon]

6) VINTAGE Heavyweight Harris Tweed Jacket.

Made in England by Albion.
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Size c. 36, 38. Measurements:

Chest: 19 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 1/4)
Shoulder: 16 3/4
Length: 28 3/4

This is wonderful! Cut from classically heavy Harris Tweed in brown herringbone this jacket likely dates from the 1960s. It was Made in England by Albion, and retains its lovely interior Albion label (featuring the Rose of England) as well as its vintage Harris Tweed label.

Cut as a two-button model with darting this has three front patch pockets with lapped seams. It has a single rear vent, and features the traditional British single-button cuff. naturally, all of the buttons are leather-clad and metal-shanked. It is fully lined and fully canvassed.

This jacket is a vintage jacket, and so it does have some minor patina. There is some minor sagging and fraying to the two interior pockets' top edges, but this won't be seen when worn. The interior country or original label is also frayed. This jacket could also use a press and dry clean! As such, it is in Very Good condition, and a bargain at just $32, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries welcome!

7) BEAUTIFUL Nick Hilton of Princeton tweed jacket.​

c. 38, 40L. Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 32 1/4

Union Made in the USA for Nick Hilton of Princeton--the successor to Norman Hilton--this lovely jacket is modeled after a traditional British hacking jacket, with a three button front and twin vents.

The tweed is lovely--beautiful soft wool in autumnal browns and mossy green in a classic houndstooth pattern.

The jacket is fully canvassed and fully lined, and apart from a very small mark on one lapel which blends with the tweed is in excellent condition.

Asking just $39, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

8) Huntington 3/2 sack jacket in classic grey herringbone tweed!​

Tagged 46R, but this is closer to c. 40, 42. Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/8
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 30 1/4

This is lovely! Made by Huntington, one of the classic Ivy clothiers, this is a traditional American 3/2 sack jacket in classic grey herringbone tweed--a staple of any classic wardrobe. So, if you don't yet have one of these jackets, now's your chance to grab one!

This is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has three cuff buttons. It has a single center vent, and was, of course, Made in the USA.

I have noted to myself that this might have a small blemish on the label; I couldn't see this clearly even in bright sun, and now can't see it at all indoors, but I'm assuming it's there and just very faint! This could also do with a dry-clean and a press. As such, it is conservatively in Good/Very Good condition, and so a bargain at

just $29, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA! International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost.

9) Vintage Harris Tweed jacket in charcoal herringbone with vertical stripes.​

Made in Holland!

Tagged 40R. (Closer to 38, 40S). Measurements:

Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 17 1/8
Length: 29

Despite their less than Ivy name the Dutch company "Alexander's Wide World of Fashion" used to make some very nice, serviceable Harris tweed jackets--and this one is no exception!

Cut from a dark charcoal herringbone Harris tweed which features the classic Harris vertical striping in chestnut and blue, this is a contemporary two button jacket with single vent. It is fully lined, and has single button cuffs; the buttons are all leather-clad and metal-shanked and are developing some lovely patina.

The jacket could use a dry clean and a press to freshen it up, and so it is in Very Good condition, and a bargain at just $32, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries are welcome, with shipping at cost.

 

[tweedydon]

10) GORGEOUS London Bespoke Jacket made by L. G. Wilkinson, of 11, St George Street, London.

THE OLDEST FAMILY-OWNED BESPOKE TAILORS IN LONDON!
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c. 42, 44. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30

Founded in 1919, L.G. Wilkinson has occupied the same premises at 11, St George Street since 1924. It still operates today, as it the oldest family-owned bespoke tailoring business in London. Unlike many London tailors--including some on Savile Row--Wilkinson's cuts all of its cloth and makes all of its garments on the premises, in the traditional way, rather than measuring its customers and outsourcing the work to non-British tailoring companies. This does mean that Wilkinson's jackets are more expensive than many of their rivals'--but the fact that they continue to flourish shows that their clients appreciate the value of a truly British tailoring firm, and the continuance with tradition that it represents.

This jacket is a testament to the exceptionally high quality of the tailoring that you can expect from a true London bespoke tailor. Cut from a lovely sort wool cloth in traditional Glen Plaid in black and cream with crimson windowpane overchecking--this wonderful jacket is, of course, both fully canvassed and fully lined. Cut as a traditional British three button jacket with darting it features simply tons of handwork throughout--even the buttonholes are sewn by hand, and are, of course, all fully functional. It has a twin vent, and all of the buttons are a lovely dark natural horn.

As befits a bespoke garment this has plenty of attention to detail; the pocket flaps are lined with the same wool felting as the collar, for example, rather than with the same material as the lining. This jacket was completed on the 12th January, 1979--but given its utterly classic cut it could have been made last week.

This is a truly beautiful jacket, and is a bargain at just $59, or offer.

 

[tweedydon]

11) Briggs of Providence Comfy Plaid Jacket.

Made in the USA. Designed in Great Britain by Hardy Amies.​

c. 40, 42. Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 29 3/4

Originally sold by Briggs of Providence--the upscale clothier for all of Rhode Island--this lovely heavy winter plaid jacket is a medly of slate-blue, browns, and creams. It is a current two button jacket with darting and twin vents. The buttons are all leather-clad metal-shanked football buttons. It features two hacking pockets--true to its British heritage, like the twin vent--and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has some minor loose stitching in the lining, and so is in Very Good/Excellent condition. It was Union made in the USA.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

12) CLASSIC BARLEYCORN HARRIS TWEED JACKET WITH SUBTLE STRIPING!

BEAUTIFUL, MADE IN THE USA.​

c. 40, 42. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 24 1/2
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30

This is a lovely, classic Harris tweed in the relatively rare barleycorn pattern, with classic Harris vertical striping in russet, golden wheat, and sky blue. This is a contemporary two button front jacket with subtle darts; it has three button cuffs, and all of the buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked football buttons that are perfect with tweeds. The jacket is half-lined, and has a single center vent. It was Made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost.

 

[tweedydon]

13) CLASSIC Harris Tweed Jacket from DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ​

c. 38. Measurements:

Chest: 20
Sleeve: 25 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 1/4
Length: 29 1/2

This was originally sold by DiTorio's of Pennington, NJ--an extremely trad. clothier, now long gone, that catered to the more rurally inclined trads of neighbouring Princeton. Pennington itself is a beautiful pre-Revolutionary War small town; the cemetery on Main Street is bounded by a wall that British troops exercised their horses over in 1775, and Frederick Forsyth set the start of his novel Avenger in Pennington, as embodying classic small town America.

This jacket embodies the wares that were offered by DiTorio's. Cut from a very sturdy, heavier-weight Harris Tweed of a heft that gave Harris its worldwide reputation and is now increasingly rare, this is a lovely classic grey herringbone that is accented with classic Harris tweed vertical stripes in chestnut brown and sky blue. It appears to be half-canvassed, and it is half-lined. It features a single center vent and three button cuffs. It was Made in the USA, and is in absolutely excellent condition--the top breast pocket is still basted shut!

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

14) Basketweave Harris Tweed from The Princeton Clothing Company
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c. 40. Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 31 3/4

Like Langrock, The English Shop, Ballot, and Hilton The Princeton Clothing Company specialized in classic Ivy Style clothing--which naturally included Harris Tweed. This lovely jacket is cut from classic basketweave Harris tweed in a mixture of browns, creams, and slate grey. It is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts, and has a single center vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined and has very natural shoulders. The buttons are classic leather-covered and metal-shanked football buttons. Made in the USA this could use a dry-clean and a press to freshen it up; it also has a small tear to the lining by a corner of a pocket, as shown. It is thus in Good/Very Good condition.

Asking just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

15) J. PRESS 4/3 JACKET

POSSIBLY THE ONLY ONE LEFT IN EXISTENCE!




This is an EXTREMELY rare jacket!​

c. 40, 42L Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 32 3/4

Not only is this the first 4/3 jacket that I have ever seen in person, but I've also never even seen pictures of these jackets posted anywhere in the trad. blogosphere or on forums. (The closest anyone has come has been Ivy Style who in 2009 posted a picture of one that was featured in a J.Press ad from 1952.) This leads me to believe that this might be the first original 4/3 jacket to have surfaced in many years.... And while it's unlikely to be the ONLY surviving original 4/3 jacket in existence it's certainly one of the very few that are left.

In any case, this is certainly rarest mainstream model of jacket around. (York Street tried to revive this cut in 2009, but their execution was terrible, and it deserved the swift death it received.) This is not that surprising. J. Press introduced this as the "Four Button Odd Coat" in 1952, and while it is unknown how long this model was sold for it's unlikely to have continued past 1955. This was, after all, the 1950s, and innovation in jacket cut was frowned upon by the clientele of places such as Press and Brooks.

Yet Press wasn't really trying to innovate, so much as attempting to appeal to the memories of the flamboyant Jazz Age with this coat reminiscent of the Victorian-inspired jackets of the 1920s. With the war just over, and prosperity beckoning, wouldn't this be just the time to wear clothing popular on college campuses during the Gilded Age? It seems that the answer to this was no..... Ivy Style was in the ascendant, and while it hadn't yet solidified into the 'curriculum" of clothes that were "right" 3/2 sacks were de riguer..... and the 4/3 didn't last.

This explains the extreme rarity of original jackets today. Produced only by Press, and in a very limited run, few have survived the last 65 years to be wearable today.

That's a pity, for, as this example shows the 4/3 sack when done well combines the timeless quality of the 3/2 sack with additional insouciance. Although Press suggests that this be worn as a 4/3 with the lower button undone it seems better as a 4/2 jacket, with only the third button done up; this not only reflects its 3/2 ancestry but also adds extra interest to the collar roll.

This particular example is cut from tapestry patterned tweed in a nod to the more innovative tweeds of the 1920s; the colourway is peat and bark brown. It has a twin vent--appropriately given its heritage--and two button cuffs with faux buttonholes--again, a nod to the Victorian English riding jacket that lay in its ancestry. It also features two leather elbow-patches--although these are likely to have been after-market additions. This jacket was half-canvassed, and was, of course, Made in the USA. It is also fully lined.

The tweed shell is in very Good condition, needing only a press and some minor attention to a couple of weak threads on the shoulder. The lining, however, has some minor frays in the body, and some tearing and disassembly under the arms. This could either be replaced, or, more economically, patched by a competent dry-cleaner tailor. Given the condition of the lining this jacket is in Good condition overall.

As I mentioned above, it is possible that this is the only original 4/3 sack in existence. However, since I purvey clothing, and not museum pieces, this is still very competitively priced at just $35, OR OFFER, boxed and shipped in the USA!

 

[tweedydon]

16) GORGEOUS Corneliani Autumnal Tweed.

Retail c. $1675.
Here? $65, shipped in the USA!​

Tagged EU 54L (US 44L) this measures:

Chest: 22 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Sleeve: 26 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20 1/4
Length: 32 1/4

This is absolutely beautiful! Made in Italy by Corneliani, this is cut from beautifully soft virgin wool with a wonderful hand and drape. The cloth is a wonderful autumnal Glen Plaid--perfect for Fall and Winter, and the transition into Spring.

Cut as a contemporary two-button model this is darted and unvented. It is fully canvassed and fully lined, and has four button cuffs. It is in absolutely excellent condition!

The nearest Corneliani jacket I can find on Saks' website retails at $1675, so how about $65, shipped? That's over $1,600 off retail!

17) Dark Charcoal Harris Tweed​

Tagged 42L; closer to a 44R. Measurements:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+ 1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 31

Cut from wonderful Harris Tweed in a dark charcoal herringbone pattern that's flecked with pumpkin orange, gorse yellow, berry red, and moss green, this lovely jacket is a contemporary two button model with darting. It has a single center vent and it is fully lined. the buttons are all leather-covered metal-shanked "football" buttons.

This is in Very Good/Excellent condition and is a steal at just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA!

 

[tweedydon]

18) Land Rover Gear Tweed Jacket​

Tagged 41R. Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/2

Capitalizing on the current love of all things "heritage" Land Rover has collaborated with several clothing manufacturers to produce "Land Rover Gear"--a Land-Rover themed twist of classic clothing.

While most of these products were utterly forgettable, some stood out as Land Rover occasionally had the sense to collaborate with real clothing companies, rather than those that just placed logos on sweatshirts and fleeces. One of the most notable of these collaborations was that Land Rover had with Barbour.

While this isn't a Barbour x Land Rover tweed, it IS an extremely well-made and beautiful jacket, Made in Canada. True to its British heritage by way of Land Rover this is inspired by a traditional hacking jacket, with a three button front, darts, and a wonderful moss-green base with (extremely!) subtle overchecking in Royal Blue, cream, and chestnut.

Is is unvented, fully canvassed, and fully lined, with four button cuffs. It is in absolutely excellent condition; the two exterior pockets are still basted shut!

Despite being made for Land Rover this is a *real* tweed jacket, and so is a bargain at just $39, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

PS: If you're interested in Land Rovers, one of the best defences of them as city vehicles is given in Iain Banks' novel *Dead Air*!

19) AS IVY AS IT GETS!

Harvard Coop. Harris Tweed. 3/2 sack.​

Tagged 42L. (Could also be 40L). Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+2)
Shoulder: 17 1/2
Length: 32 1/2

This jacket is about as Ivy as it gets! originally sold by The Harvard Coop (the official university store of Harvard University), this is cut as a classic 3/2 sack jacket from grey herringbone Harris Tweed.

This is about as Ivy as it gets!

The jacket has a lovely liquid lapel roll, and the buttons are all metal-shanked, leather-covered buttons the colour of burnished chestnut--perfect for grey herringbone tweed! As you'd expect, it has very natural shoulders. The jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and is in excellent condition except for a small professional reweave about 6" below the shoulder one the left-hand sleeve.

This was, of course, Union Made in the USA.

Asking just $45, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

 

[tweedydon]

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20) GRAIL!! Vintage Langrock 3/2 sack in Rust-bracken tweed!

Tagged 42L. Measurements:

Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 25 1/2 (+ 1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 31

As everyone reading this knows, Langrock was THE Ivy clothier of The Golden Age of Ivy Style; indeed, so prominent is Langrock in the history of Ivy that even its labels are now collectible!

I'm thus very pleased to offer this gorgeous vintage Langrock tweed!

Cut as a 3/2 sack with a very high roll lapel, this is cut from seriously heavyweight tweed; you won't need a topcoat while wearing this! Although this appears to be a solid tweed in beautifully autumnal rust-bracken, this is actually a very very subtle herringbone weave.

The jacket features flapped patch pockets, two button cuffs, and a single centre vent. It is half-canvassed and half-lined. All of the buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked football buttons.

This jacket was, of course, Union made in the USA. It is in excellent condition, except that it has had its cuff buttons replaced at odd intervals, so they do not match. But this is no problem at all, as I can have a complete set of four new matching cuff buttons attached at no charge if you wish, including the current buttons with the jacket!

Asking just $69, or offer, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA for this absolutely gorgeous Langrock tweed!

 

[tweedydon]

6, 11, 15 are SOLD.

 

[tweedydon]

BUMP

 

[tweedydon]

3, 4, 19 are now SOLD

Offers welcome on everything!

 

[tweedydon]

BUMP