Thoughts on Schott 650

[Orbital]

To introduce myself first: I stumbled in here looking for information on quality jackets. I'm in the market for a leather jacket, preferable a little dressy. Since I am more submariner than aviator, I thought a Peacoat/uboat tie-in would be nicer.

Thank you for a the great information that folks contribute.

On to the topic at hand: I received and returned a Schott 650. Overall it was a nice coat. However, although the buttons had backing, but the threadwork looked like a rat's nest with no discernable pattern. The liner was a little flimsy as well. Sorry no pics, as I sent it back straightaway. Size was more of a reason for the return, but I thought it would be nice to share what I saw.

Based upon your quality inputs, I have my sights set on a Gibson and Barnes Hudson. I still need to work out some details with them (I'd like to add front pockets) but so far, so good.

I'll likely try to replace the buttons to a retro enlisted peacoat to match my background. Thanks also for the forum's input on those.
I'll try to return and let folks know how that goes.

 

[Edward]

For reference, The G&B Hudson:

Looks like a nice coat. Some others you might consider (depending upon personal preference and budget) in that general vein:

www.thebadwolf.com (can't find a price on there, might be expenive, it's a custom job)?

www.wested.com - Dr Who Jacket - GBP165 (USD245) for standard sizing; GBP185 (USD275) for made to measure. Black or brown, no idea of the hide. I think some folks on here have one. Cheaper than some alternatives, though I hear folks who have handled one speak highly of them:

www.magnoliclothiers.com U Boat Jacket - range of colours and hides, made to measure - USD395.00

www.aeroleather.com - Barnstormer USD818 - a little different in design, though the absolute cream of the crop in quality...

Similar again, the www.eastmanleather.com Brooklands Motoring Coat USD855

It is also available in black - at least it seems to be an identical jacket, same price, but in black it's called the German WW1 3/4 length, Black Leather Flying Coat:

Big difference with the Aero and Eastman options, of course, is the full waist belt...

If you did decide to go custom made. you could always send whoever you buy from the buttons you want, don't see why they wouldn't fit them to the coat at point of manufacture if that was the case (apart maybe from Magnoli as I know he outsources, so that might not be an option there). Look forward ro seeing photos of whatever you go for.

DISCLAIMER: I own none of the above, though the Aero I will absolutely stand over the quality of based on all the Aero products I have handled.

 

[andy richards]

Hi Orbital and welocme on the FL.
I've had a Schott 650 and sold it also...
The Schott 650 I've had was sturdy build, stitches were decent and nice, but the buttons kept falling off. In the end I fastened the buttons with But-o-Fix metal fasteners. After wearing the jackets for a couple of times I decided it had to go, maily because I hardly wore it. I just liked my Aero jackets more. If I decide to buy a double row buttoned jacket again I will go for the Aero Barnstormer.
For reference a few pics of my "old" Schott 650.

Or, if you are looking for a vintage 50's style ex-police jacket, maybe you like this?

 

[Orbital]

Thanks for the replies. I had looked at most of these due to the good info here, but I hadn't considered the Barnstormer. However, I think Aero's Mariner looks like a good candidate. Aero's price is high for my budget though, and Gibson is a lot closer geographically to get the sizing done.

I've been in touch with Gibson, and the pricing to add the pockets (+38 custom, +150 pattern change, etc.) is putting it within 100 dollars of the Mariner.

I searched on Gibson sizing, and got this thread first. Does anyone know if Gibson runs small or big? I'm pretty close to a 46R off the rack, but Gibson has a 40R Hudson for 350. For that price I could skip the pockets!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I have 2 G&B's. They run pretty much true to size and are NOT cut baggy. Consult with them however for what's best. G&B jackets are amongst the best made leather jackets I have owned. I have had many, many leather jackets.

Bear in mind that the thicker the leather the heavier and more uncomfortable they can feel when wearing. I wore an Aero highwayman for some weeks and I never liked the feel of it. But it's a personal thing. Some folks don;t seem to mind.

 

[Orbital]

Thanks for the input. There were some conflicting reports but the consensus seems to be the fit is as ordered, so I'm sure the 40 is out.

In an update, G&B told me that slash (welt?) pockets would be the only pockets they could make work. Those match the old uniform peacoat that I have. I always found it ironic that you were given pockets and told not to put anything in them or stick your hands in them. I guess that is why you were issued gloves!

 

[Geronimo]

I think G&B run a bit large - in the body, not the shoulders and sleeves. Maybe to fit people wearing shoulder holsters or pistols on their belts.

I've got the Hudson in size 40, from the clearance section. Big, heavy jacket that jingles (all the metal buttons and their metal fasteners at work). Sturdy, and very warm with the zip-in lining in place. Definitely a quality piece.

 

[BigHairyFinn]

Add to that a NYPD 3/4 police jacket - old style. I think it lacks pockets in most versions. Theres a few places in NY that make them, I think Taylors leatherwear has one too.

The Schott would be perfect for my climate

 

[Parkpiper]

Just like you, I searched all over for a Mariner/U-Boat jacket and ended up going with Magnoli. I only ordered about four weeks ago so no pictures yet. Since I don't have the jacket I can't speak to the quality but I can tell you that Magnoli has some of the best customer srevice I have experienced. Every email has been answered by the next business day and even helped with customization suggestions.

Even before the great service, I went with Magnoli because I love the way the jacket looks, several threads on this forum had great things to say about them and since this is my first custom leather jacket the price was within my budget.

Can't wait till I can start a "My new Magnoli U-Boat just arrived" thread!!

Adam

 

[Jeff M]

I've also been looking into a Kreigsmarine U-boat jacket, narrowed my choice down to Bad Wolf, Magnoli, and Wested. Ended up ordering a Bad Wolf 3 weeks ago. It's getting it's lining put in this week, should have it fairly soon.
I chose Bad Wolf because of the overall cut of the jacket, the quality of leather they use and how it drapes, and how well the jackets look to be tailored.
John Doyle, the owner of Bad Wolf, has put a lot of time and effort into nailing the original design down and recreating it, going through several tailors before finding one who made a jacket he was happy with. It shows in the detail..such as how the pleated back is constructed.
At one point he worked with the folks at Wested to produce the jacket...that did not work out. The design that they are using is apparently one of his earlier prototypes, with different leather quality than what he was looking for.

 

[bumphrey hogart]

one thing i've found with schott,the old ones are nothing like the new ones,i have three,all at least twenty years old,they're bombproof. I have a ma1 i bought in 1990,i'm still wearing it in! One clue i think is the sizing,if it's:m,l,xl etc i don't even look at them,if they're properly sized:40,42 etc they're a different ballgame(ish).Anyway,my experience,vintage is the only way to go with schott

 

[Orbital]

For an update: Gibson and Barnes was nice enough to send a Hudson, but after trying two different sizes (46 and 44), I could not abide the fit. The 44 in the Hudson fit like a tent. I had myself measured, and I am firmly, a 44.5 inch chest. The G&B was beautiful other than the fit. I decided to give it up.

I know how a peacoat fit, and I'm going to try a Schott 140.