The warm weather suit

[Matt Deckard]

Anybody here own a summer suit? I was thinking about getting a modern seersucker (the BB outlet by me has them for $200) though I am still dropping and think I'll save my money for a vintage one.
The cut of the brooks brothers suit looks better than in the pic.
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/home/...?frames_section_id=249&frames_product_id=376k


Here are some pics from from Wild Root

If made out of the right material and with a 3/4 Skeleton lining, these suits can be a godsend for the dapper man out on a hot date on a hot day.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Let me ask about fabrics for warm weather...

I have always been a natural fiber man, cotton, wool, silk. I don't like man-made fibers, and try to avoid them if I can. Once in awhile I will buy something that is a blend, but even that can be dicey, as they don't seem to hold up well. I don't think they breathe as well, either.

Did vintage suit fabrics contain rayon, polyester, etc.? I would like to get more summer wear, and vintage would be nice, even though it's hard to find in my size. A good linen suit would be more suitable for me, I would think. Am I missing out a good thing by avoiding the man-made stuff?

Just wondering what the consensus is.

Brad Bowers

 

[Matt Deckard]

Polyester is an amazing fabric... When it is hot it makes you hotter and holds in the heat... when it is cold it is freezing and holds the moisture in... how they did it I don't know... amazing!

Rayon on the other hand is a manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. It breathes pretty good and is used to line better quality suits.

Vintage suits that were lined had Rayon, if you go real far back you find some with silk.

You find vintage women's dresses made of Rayon.

Don't touch polyester.
Polyester = oil based plastic

I think the original Hawaiin shirts were made of Rayon.

Linen, light weight wool, cotton or Rayon are what I suggest... plastic and clothes do not mix in my book.

Brad... I can see you in nice cotton seersucker suit, I think you could pull it off.

 

[Brad Bowers]

Thanks Matt. I will add rayon to my list of acceptable fabrics. I had just figured it was another one of those petroleum-based fabrics that I dislike.

Is a non-Southerner allowed to wear a seersucker suit?
Actually, I had been thinking about getting a seersucker suit. I think there's a Brooks Brothers outlet store at Park City, I'll have to check it out.

I've been meaning to ask you about the trousers in your new avatar and latest suit post. Are those vintage or new? I've been trying to find some in that color. That's a great outfit you've got there.

Brad Bowers

 

[Canadave]

Originally posted by Brad Bowers
.... I think there's a Brooks Brothers outlet store at Park City, I'll have to check it out...

I just got a pair of seersucker pants at a Brooks Brothers outlet store in Santa Fe, NM. Boy, they're comfortable. The jacket wasn't a traditional suit jacket...it had a zipper or something, so I took a pass.

Good luck!

David

 

[Matt Deckard]

Zipper huh... That's odd... Welcome to the boards canadave.

Brad, The trousers are the pants that go with the suit I had made in Long beach. They have a full cut and the pleats face in instead of out like you see on most pants... this keeps the creases nice and creased for a long time.

I pretty much told the tailor the color I was looking for, I came back a week later and he had about 20 different ones for me to choose from... that color is the one I picked.

 

[Matt Deckard]

 

[Matt Deckard]

 

[STHill]

I, too, am planning to get a seersucker suit this summer. It looks like Brooks Brothers is one of the few options.

Lightweight "tropical" wool suits work pretty well in the summer. I used to have a khaki-colored trop wool suit that had a great summer look and was about as comfortable as a suit can be in the summer.

I agree with all regarding synthetic fabrics. Just a bad idea for clothing. I tried higher-end blends for awhile. They can look almost as good as natural for awhile, but they don't hold up, and they have all the other disadvantages. The one supposedly positive is wrinkle resistance. True to an extent, but once they do wrinkle, they're almost impossible to "unwrinkle." By the way, I once saw a seersucker suit in a cotton/poly blend! Go figure.

Matt, keep the archive pictures coming. Those are great!

 

[Matt Deckard]

Wild Root hanging out in Catalina in some warm weather gear.

 

[Matt Deckard]

The eighties idea of warm weather suit
Click if you dare

http://www.albertspage.it/sigle_tv/foto/Miami vice12.jpg

 

[Brad Bowers]

I probably should not admit this for fear of being ostracized, but I wore the "Miami Vice" look in high school in the Eighties. That's about the only time I have worn clothing that was in style, I guess. Before and after that, it was a brown fedora, khaki pants, tan shirt, work boots... wait, this isn't COW. Sorry 'bout that! Tis true, though. Indy to Sonny Crockett to Indy, go figure.

Great Jimmy Stewart photo!

Brad Bowers

 

[Andykev]

HAHAHAHHAH`

I wore the "Saturday Night Fever" clothes in High School in the 70's/

You guys are rookies in bad taste!

 

[Matt Deckard]

You guys are lucky... I went to high school in the 90's and there was no style to speak of good or bad whatsoever. Most of the students didn't own shirts with buttons and anything outside of Jeans were considered dress pants.

 

[rayk]

Summer suits are by their nature difficult. Being appropriate only several months of the year, most men are loathe to spend a lot of money...and money you can certainly spend on summer suits.

There are several traditional summer suit materials, all proper and stylish but each projecting a different sense of the wearer's attitude and circumstance.

The safest and simplist choices are tropical worsted (~7 oz.), cotton poplin, or linen; however when the occasion calls for true elegance and panache, seersucker or Italian Dupioni silk must be considered.

Seersucker, a traditional favorite of the south, is a marvelous summer suit material. Its exceedingly light and airy qualities make dressing well in hot climates facile. Some trusted possible sources for a suit of this material are (In order of ascending price):

Jos. A. Bank , sometimes unflatteringly referred to as the poor man's BB, has a great two-piece, two or three-button, seersucker suit for approximately $220. I just got mine on sale for under $150, and I love it.

Brooks Brothers also has a seersucker that, which while I've not personally inspected it, I've been informed is quite nice for about $300.

Ben Silver offers a very high quality seersucker suit, but, regrettably, I'm unable to recall who actually manufactures the garment. I can state that Ben Silver is always quality. The prices for seersucker suits here (about $800) begin the uphill climb to where the economic air becomes thin for many.

For a seersucker suit of traditonal authentic quality (at least it was still so a few years ago), one might choose Southwick . The price for a suit by this maker will cost you upward of $1000, but you'll have assured yourself of tradition, quality, and style. Not bad for a grand.

The undisputed king of summer suits, the Italian Dupioni silk suit, is an unmistakable symbol of style and sophistication; however, this sartorial shibboleth can cost you dearly.

Coming in at $1870. is Belvest. This Italian maker has great styling and great quality.

This Departures article discusses high-end Dupioni silk suits by renowned makers such as Hickey-Freeman, Kiton, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Oxxford, and Brioni. If you have entirely too much money to spend, or are a hopeless clothes junkie, these possibilities may sartorially excite you.

If you are able to resist the allure of the great sartorial houses of Napoli and Savile Row, you can get perhaps the finest deal on a true bespoke Italian Dupioni silk suit from WW Chan for about $1100. Unless you plan to spend at least a week or two in Hong Kong, to have one of these suits made will require a couple of visits to certain major US cities during Chan's
US order tours. I plan to be measured for a Chan Dupioni silk suit in November. (I was considering the July visit, but given that I wouldn't receive the finished product until after its season, I decided to wait.)

Always dress your best, for as so insightfully put by Will Rogers(?): you never get a second chance to make a first impression.

Additional Reading:

The Summer Wind -- G. Bruce Boyer

 

[Canadave]

Wow, great post, Ray.

I know that on the surface, this sounds like a stupid question, but I'm sure you can do it justice with a response; What's the difference between a $300 seersucker and one that comes in at a g-note?

Thanks,

David

 

[rayk]

The difference in prices between seersucker suits of various makers is identical to the difference found in prices of other suits or garments. Quality of materials used, quantity and quality of handwork, construction, and balance are all integral factors in the final price of any suit. The more handwork that goes into the construction of a suit, the higher the final price.

A RTW seersucker suit that is chemically treated to produce the characteristic "pucker" of the fabric, made of inferior cotton, and fully machine-sewn can be had for far less than a custom garment* of highest quality fabric that is entirely hand sewn (excepting the long seams) by a tailor of skill.

The higher-end suits of my previous post were either RTW or MTM, but of quality fabric and skilled construction and tailoring.

*None of the examples given in my previous post (excepting WW Chan) were for bespoke (full paper-pattern-cut custom) clothing.

 

[SHARPETOYS]

Thanks Ray K.
I will be in West Plam Beach November 15, 2004 For a fitting. I appreciate the information.

 

[rayk]

Great, SHARPTOYS!! Given that your fitting date corresponds with Chan's anticipated visit to West Palm Beach, may I presume that your fitting is with this tailor? If so, will it be for a Dupioni or another suit?

As previously mentioned, I will be fitted for a Dupioni silk on November 8th in NYC. There are more "practical" suits in my wardrobe that should be replaced, but I've put off this purchase for quite some time. It's one of those things, sort of like a terrific Montecristi fino, that if you wait for the right time to buy, you'll never have. For years I've wanted to enjoy a day of the racing season at Saratoga dressed in a cream Dupioni and Montecrisi. It looks like 2005 may be my year. Good luck. Be sure to let me know how the fitting goes.

 

[SHARPETOYS]

I can see it now Ray K and i at the races wearing our custom made suits by WW Chan in Dupioni silk. Topped off with our Super Fino Fino Montecristi Panama hats with 2000 WPSI from PANAMABOB, custom blocked by Art. Sipping something cool! Money in our pockets from the great deals we got from these two great vendors. Yes 2005 will be a good year.:cool2: