THE TWENTIETH CENTURY HAT FACTORY by David C. Mills

[rlk]

Just stumbled across this interesting book from the Lee-McLachlan Company 1910-11 OUTSTANDING and clear description of the hat-making process from fur forward.
http://books.google.com/books?id=ET...esnum=9&ved=0CCwQ6AEwCDhG#v=onepage&q&f=false

 

[Lefty]

Thanks for more great stuff. I've got it downloaded and will read it tomorrow. :eusa_clap

 

[Lefty]

I'm about halfway through this and am really enjoying it. Anyone interested in the entire hat making process, from cutting fur to shipping boxes, should check it out.

Bits I found interesting:

I didn't know that the brim is made thicker than the crown. To fight against it's own weight, and because it's used as a handle, it needs more felt. I thought it just had more stiffener in it.

The men in the sizing room live the longest, as there's no dust in the air; the room has too much humidity.

Lesser furs felt faster. Better furs felt slow.

If the mercury didn't get you, the wood alcohol or stiffener would.

You don't want rain in the drying room.

The Doran brothers perfected (for the time) the brim iron.

A scorched and scaly forefinger was once the mark of a brim curler.

The hydro-shaping of derby crowns is fascinating stuff.

 

[Mario]

For some reason I can't access the book's contents. Could it be because I'm in Germany...?

 

[zetwal]

Great book! I look forward to reading it in it's entirety. Thanks!

 

[Lefty]

"During some little time there has been a vogue for soft hats with parallel stitches running round the brim practically from the crown to the edge." page 114

I don't think I've seen any hats older than the 30s with that sort of stitching.

______
The flanging of derby brims is even more interesting than the crown shaping.

Even the labels are printed in-house.

___

Thanks again for this. It's my new favorite book for hat info.

 

[daizawaguy]

For some reason I can't access the book's contents. Could it be because I'm in Germany...?

Same here - or maybe I`m not doing something right - but there is no active link that will lead to the dowmload.

Perhaps some kind member can advise or download and give others access. I`m a great fan of these historical perspectives. Thanks

 

[DRB]

"Nitrate of Mercury eats away the oil or grease on each fur fibre and......” –pg 38.

Do they still use mercury??? Also, I was assuming, incorrectly I guess, that pure beaver felt hats obtained some of their water resiliency from some of the oils remaining on the strands of hair. If the oils are stripped away, then it must be something with the nature of the hair strands that helps repel water? Perhaps the fibers bond together more closely?

Interesting read, thank you!

 

[zetwal]

Do they still use mercury???

Nope! It's been out of use in hat making for many decades.

 

[DRB]

I was going to offer to download and send a copy via email but it (google) literally will not let me do it.

Perhaps a free PDF reader (acrobat) is needed? Maybe someone else can help.

 

[zetwal]

PM your email address to me and I will try to send you a PDF copy.

 

[Lloyd]

I was able to save a copy locally.
Like zetwal I'll be glad to email a copy to anyone who wants one, just pm me with your address. It's a 4.6mb file so make sure your isp or mail provider will allow attachments that large

 

[DRB]

Oops, I was indeed able to get a copy for others. I just realized that I did not scroll down far enough in the PDF file. The first part is a disclaimer from Google telling of copyright rules.

 

[fluteplayer07]

Fantastic, rlk! I'm looking forward to reading all of it. So far it seems very informative. Would I be out of line to suggest this to go in the 'Links to Important Threads' thread?

 

[Redwoodjedi]

Nope! It's been out of use in hat making for many decades.

The Old School use of mercury and its toxic effect on the brain and its functional reasoning is where the saying "Mad as a Hatter" came from.

A little factoid for your collective viewing pleasure. Please recommence your regularly scheduled program.

RJ