The Flat Head Cafe Racer Fit Opinions

[singer]

Hi there, first time poster. I've been looking for a light weight leather jacket that I can wear often in my SF Bay Area climate, and have learned a lot from folks on this forum. I'm a bit new to quality vintage-style leather jackets, and would love to solicit opinions on the fit of this Flat Head jacket.

I went to my local Self Edge intending to try on the brown Flat Head Rider's jacket. They were sold out, so I quickly tried on the Cafe Racer to get a feel for Shinki HH. I dismissed it pretty quickly, because I did not think I could pull off the band collar. But it's growing on me. I did love everything else right away--the brass hardware, the hand warmer pockets with no zippers, the design of the back, and the look and feel of the Shinki leather. Perhaps I'd go with a brown if I had the choice (most of my shoes are brown--does this matter?)

My question for you folks--do you think it fits well? I usually wear a size 38. They said this runs small, and it's a size 40. I don't think I can go smaller because the arms would probably be too short. It was comfortable, not tight, with some room to spare for another layer.

Second, do you think, fit-wise the Himel Frobisher (hat tip to @Superfluous) or the RMC Buco j-100 would be better for fit? (I just might have to get a brown Frobisher in addition anyway...)

Unfortunately, these aren't the best photos because I didn't think I was considering the jacket at the time. And ideally I would have had that long shirt tucked in. (I remember being satisfied with the length of the jacket, it did cover my belt, which is covered by my shirt.) I will go back for another try-on if it passes the sniff test...unless you folks think I can do better with another model. Would love your unvarnished opinions!

 

[Benj]

It looks great on you. Personally, I would recommend trying a size down, cafe racer's (and especially clothing from Flat Head) are supposed to be pretty fitted. I'm a 40 in all of their tops and I'm a 38 in that jacket!

 

[technovox]

I think you're on the right track - I've found that a cafe racer in a Shinki horsehide to be a perfectly matched jacket for the San Francisco temperate climate. And I've been to that Self-Edge on Valencia. But unfortunately, I didn't have the best experience there- I found the staff to be unhelpful and somewhat clueless when it came to any knowledge about their leather jackets. But maybe you've had better luck.
As far as the jacket fit, I agree with Benj. You might try a size down. Looks to be a bit too roomy in the chest and abdomen, although the sleeves seem about right. (It's hard to tell with those pics.) A problem with going a size down is that the sleeves might be too short.
Personally, I think black is a more versatile color than brown. Get one of each!

 

[singer]

I would have loved to try a size down, but they didn't have it in stock. I have a feeling I would fit in the 38, except for perhaps the sleeves being too short, especially after some creasing. My shirt sleeve is even peeking a bit beyond the jacket sleeve.

I also just asked my wife what she thinks, and she says she really doesn't like the "mandarin" collar

Speaking of fitted, I tried on the Iron Heart leather jacket as well, and it fit me like a glove in a 38. But a bit too severe a look for me. Images below of the same model contrasting the a very fitted IH jacket vs the Flat Head's somewhat more relaxed fit.

Based on your observations, I am also thinking that perhaps the jacket I tried on was a bit too big in the body. Thanks for the feedback!

 

[Benj]

Always happy to help. I've tried that exact same jacket on in a 40, which I thought was my size because the sleeves looked like yours, but tried on the 38 just to see. The sleeves were short (I'd imagine too short by many people's standards) but it was clear it was the better size because the shoulders looked a lot better, and zipped up it was slim, not baggy!

But that size still looks great, most definitely! Personally, I would just prefer a more fitted size especially for the style.

 

[singer]

The sleeves were short (I'd imagine too short by many people's standards) but it was clear it was the better size because the shoulders looked a lot better, and zipped up it was slim, not baggy!

But that size still looks great, most definitely! Personally, I would just prefer a more fitted size especially for the style.

Yeah I prefer a more fitted style as well in general. Hmm, perhaps I'll buy it to try it on and return it if the sleeves don't work out. The sleeve style does seem a bit short. On this Rivet & Hide model the fit seems good, but the sleeves are on the shorter side:

 

[Seb Lucas]

I find it hard to say - for me when new cafe racers often look like a gimp suit. It's not until they are worn in that they look the part. It seems to fit but it's shiny, stiff and lumpy right now.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

No question I would go for the Flat Head jacket over the Iron Heart one. I think that size looks great on you, but maybe try a 38 if you can.

 

[Seb Lucas]

The IH fit is fashionably tight and looks pretty awful to my eye. On my larger screen I agree with Dude - FH and see if you can try a 38.

 

[nick123]

I'd be content with the fit, but I think it looks a tad large and possibly long for the style.

 

[Plumbline]

Really depends what you want it to be .. the "fashion" on here and elsewhere is short and neat ( neat meaning small ( just covering the belt) / tight ( fitting like a 2nd skin) ... if thst's what you want then this is 1 size too large. I've had a few CR's ranging from tight "Insurrection fit" to comfortable on the bike with an armoured shirt underneath (one size too large). For me loose is better than neat ... but that's just me I don't like leathers skin tight or constricting at all I like a bit of breathing room and don't want to have to wiggle the thing off when I come indoors. Equally I don't want it flapping in the wind .... but for most on here I wear my jackets too loose, fortunately it's me who has to wear them so I stick to what I like

If you want a fit for wearing on a motorcycle ( which was the purpose of these jackets after all ) then yours looks perfect IMHO. You'll need the space in the upper torso for the reach to the bars .. the extra 1/2" in the sleeve for similar to cover your wrists and gloves and the back should extend down to your tail bone for protection when you sit on the bike and shouldn't expose your shirt or your belt when sat on the bike.

Just MHO

 

[Carlos840]

I think you can get away with either sizes...

The one you showed in pictures fits you well, it looks a bit big in the shoulders, but at least you have room for layering.
Although it looks slightly big now, once you have lived in it for a couple months it will fit great.
The sleeves length is just perfect.

A size smaller would probably be a neater fit, and look better in summer with only a T shirt, but IMO sleeves will be a little short.
Also, you are going to be screwed in winter if you want to wear it with layers.

I would say depending on the weather and your clothing habits ( do you wear a lot of thick jumpers?), both could work. I have jackets that fit me like the larger one, i wear them in winter with layers, i have jackets that fit tighter, i wear them in summer with only a T-Shirt.

 

[navetsea]

single angled chest pocket looks weird to my eyes, but it is just my taste

size wise for your built, I think that size is the one for you.

 

[Cyber Lip]

I'd say pass on that jacket. It's a common style and there are makers that will at least let you specify sleeve and body length if not let you specify all the measurements. And they probably cost less too.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

If you don't love the mandarin collar and most of your shoes are brown then I would look into the Himel Frobisher for sure.

 

[Monitor]

It's a wonderful jacket, kinda reminds me of the super cool early HD Sportster CR, with a single chest pocket. But I'd size down on it. Not that the fit is in any way bad with the one you've tried on, just that I personally would prefer the trimmer look.

And also, if I'm seeing right, you've zipped the sleeves all the way but the sleeve openings are still quite roomy. With Vanson, Schott, etc., that would indicate a jacket that's too large but since I've no idea what's the case with this brand, it may not mean anything at all. Still, on my jackets, I prefer the sleeves to be tight if I zip 'em up.

 

[mattc123]

Singer, what is your height weight and chest size?

 

[handymike]

Singer, there are so many great jackets available to you! Pass on that Flat Head one.
Go down to Johnson Leathers (in SF) and have a chat with Alan.
You can try on different styles and see what you love.
Himel makes Phenominal jackets!!!!!
but, so do Real McCoys. You might want to contact Carrie @ Thurston and try on a slim cut Aero Sheene in Vicenza. Explore the options before dropping that kind of cash on an Off the Rack jacket.
P.S.- I'm not a fan of that Rivet & Hide mash-up jacket. Commit to a style (racer or Halfbelt) IMHO.

 

[singer]

I find it hard to say - for me when new cafe racers often look like a gimp suit. It's not until they are worn in that they look the part. It seems to fit but it's shiny, stiff and lumpy right now.

Yeah now I can't get that thought out of my head

It's a wonderful jacket, kinda reminds me of the super cool early HD Sportster CR, with a single chest pocket. But I'd size down on it. Not that the fit is in any way bad with the one you've tried on, just that I personally would prefer the trimmer look.
And also, if I'm seeing right, you've zipped the sleeves all the way but the sleeve openings are still quite roomy. With Vanson, Schott, etc., that would indicate a jacket that's too large but since I've no idea what's the case with this brand, it may not mean anything at all. Still, on my jackets, I prefer the sleeves to be tight if I zip 'em up.

Yeah, I remember thinking "this is a bit roomy, I wonder if the fit is ok" when trying it on, as I usually prefer slimmer fits. I believe I had the sleeve zips all the way open though, they're just well hidden.

Singer, there are so many great jackets available to you! Pass on that Flat Head one.
Go down to Johnson Leathers (in SF) and have a chat with Alan.
You can try on different styles and see what you love.
Himel makes Phenominal jackets!!!!!
but, so do Real McCoys. You might want to contact Carrie @ Thurston and try on a slim cut Aero Sheene in Vicenza. Explore the options before dropping that kind of cash on an Off the Rack jacket.
P.S.- I'm not a fan of that Rivet & Hide mash-up jacket. Commit to a style (racer or Halfbelt) IMHO.

Great points. The only reason I haven't gone the Johnson leather route is that I'd like a Shinki leather jacket, and I don't think they do that. If I get multiple, certainly at least one will be a Johnson at some point.

I actually own a JL jacket as my only leather jacket. I naively bought a heavy heavy leather jacket with a snap out lining. I rarely wear it because it weights a ton. It's probably the reason I haven't bough a leather jacket since. I didn't even think to look for a lighter weight leather, which would have suited me much better.

If you want a fit for wearing on a motorcycle ( which was the purpose of these jackets after all ) then yours looks perfect IMHO. You'll need the space in the upper torso for the reach to the bars .. the extra 1/2" in the sleeve for similar to cover your wrists and gloves and the back should extend down to your tail bone for protection

Great points. I don't actually ride--it's all walking and Ubers for me usually.

I think you can get away with either sizes...

A size smaller would probably be a neater fit, and look better in summer with only a T shirt, but IMO sleeves will be a little short.
Also, you are going to be screwed in winter if you want to wear it with layers.

I would say depending on the weather and your clothing habits ( do you wear a lot of thick jumpers?), both could work. I have jackets that fit me like the larger one, i wear them in winter with layers, i have jackets that fit tighter, i wear them in summer with only a T-Shirt.

That makes a lot of sense. In SF, I rarely wear t-shirts or short sleeves. 99% of the time it's a long sleeve chambray/oxford/flannel of me. I run a bit cooler I guess. I also rarely wear anything more than a thin merino sweater, and if so usually w/o a jacket over it unless its super cold (for SF).

Awesome feedback everyone. I think I might pass on this one. I was going to buy the smaller size to check fit, but saw that Self Edge doesn't do returns--only exchanges and store credit. It seems silly for me to bear the risk w/o knowing how the 38 fits. Their measurements do show that the sizing down will have .5" less sleeve length, and it will be even shorter than that since the shoulder will be smaller, so the sleeves will start higher.

It looks like my other Shinki options are a Diamond Dave Buco, though I do prefer the FH style above quite a bit more (more discrete sleeve zip placement, brass hardware, hand warmer pockets w/o zips, the back design...), a DD style called The '39 which looks to me like a California Ventura style half belt, or a custom Himel Frobisher...if I want a jacket in the next couple months.

Thank you!!

 

[Monitor]

I really like that jacket, though. It's something a bit different.