The Dreaded Green Reed Stain

[Fredthecat]

I think we went over this before, can’t find the threads.

Green stain from corroded sweatband reed.

I picked up yet another 3X Silvery Belly Open Road ($20 CND!!).

The “reed” in the leather sweat band is exposed at the rear joint (1”wide). Apparently they were made of brass or copper. There’s corrosion on the reed and a green stain on the brim. The stain is 1”x 1/8” and is visible on top and bottom of brim.

Not my first Open Road with same green stain, always at rear.

Any good ideas how to clean the corrosion, seal the reed, remove the stain without dunking the whole hat or replacing sweatband?

Clean and very SOFT other than that pesky green spot.

Thanks, Fredthecat

 

[J.T.Marcus]

I've gotten the best removal by squirting "Spray 'n Wash" on the spot, then brushing it a bit with an old toothbrush. The entire hat then has to be washed in cold water and mild detergent. I then shape and allow to dry, trying the hat on several times during the drying. (Of course, if the copper isn't removed, the green will come back, eventually.)

 

[tonyb]

I've been waiting for someone else to pipe up and actually give you the answer you were looking for, Fred. Alas, I wonder if anyone can.

I have tried -- with varying degrees of success, none of them complete -- to remove those green stains.

From your description, it sounds like the stain is clear through the felt. So sanding it out is out of the question.

The way to make that stain disappear, without actually lifting it from the felt, involves just about everything you say you wish to avoid. The process may be beyond what the average old-hat fancier has the equipment and/or skills and/or inclination to do, but it isn't all that tough. For a pro, it's a walk in the park. Although it could be a costly walk in the park for the hat's owner.

If it were mine, I'd strip the hat of its sweatband and ribbon and liner. I'd clean it and reblock it and pounce it. In the blocking process I'd make the brim just a skosh narrower by turning a small fraction of an inch of brim material into crown. You can do this pulling the crown down over the block just past the original brim break line. This would put that stain under the ribbon once the hat is put back together again. You would, of course, also have to reflange the brim, but that's no big deal.

With a narrow-ribboned hat like an Open Road, you'd have to be a bit more careful about how much brim you're turning into crown and where you put the stitches securing the sweatband, as you have less ribbon to cover up your stitches (and the holes where the old stitches were, although they often just kinda close up and disappear through the cleaning and blocking and pouncing process).

Whew! The prices the real pros charge seem all the more reasonable once a person has done a few jobs such as the one described above. A C-note (or more) for that much work would seem well within reason to me, especially if the hatter has to replace a sweatband or ribbon.

 

[tonyb]

And while I'm typing away JT comes up with a much simpler plan. I can see the potential for a hat shrinking and tapering, though. I usually clean in naphtha or Coleman camp fuel and, after the residual solvent has evaporated, in dish soap and water. But these are stripped-down bodies that will be going on the block, so shrinkage is much less a concern.

 

[J.T.Marcus]

tonyb, I can understand your concern about shrinking and tapering. It's one that gets expressed often around here. I have two wood blocks and one adjustable aluminum one. These days I almost always use a block, but when I started, I didn't. I was amazed at how little shrinking and tapering actually happens with a cold water wash and rinse. Hot water is something else. I learned the hard way. Totally ruined felt and leather. Once was enough!

In cold water, there is often no shrinking; and when there is it is usually less than half a size. (i.e. A 7 1/4 MIGHT end up between 7 1/4 and 7 1/8, but not always. (Especially not when you're trying to get it to shrink.)
Taper is usually pretty much what it was before the washing.

Note: I found it a good idea to repeatedly try the hat on during the two days it took to dry. This formed the oval to my head shape. (Now, I just leave it on the block for at least two and a half days.)

 

[Fredthecat]

Duh...move the stain!

Excellent help, thanks.

This one is a nice 40’s OR Silver Belly 7 1/4 Beauty other than that pesky stain. Very soft and supple felt. Fits perfect!

Stretch, pull, reblock, MOVE the stain….DUH!?!? Soooo simple I missed it. Then wide ribbon it and Poof! Nice hat.

Although, I may send this one to a pro. Any suggestions who? I would like to keep the Stetson wide sweatband but oh well.

It would be worth the $$$ to have it done right. I only have $20 into it.

I will tackle another OR with “The Green Stain” using these methods. Thanks

I have various blocks, flanges, hand crank heated aluminum stretcher etc and have been hankering to ruin , er uh, rebuild a hat. I've been tinkering with sewing ribbons from vintage cotton/rayon but haven't properly cleaned one yet...scared...but like to learn.

Have to finish up varnishing the wood/canvas canoe for summer first…so many hobbies…

Thanks alot for the help
Fred

 

[tonyb]

Seeing how that's a reeded sweatband, you ought to be able to remove it intact and reinstall it. And then while you're at it, you could figure out a way to encase that wire so that it can't transfer any more of that green funk onto the felt. There has to be some sort of small ferrule material out there that would do the trick, I'd think.

 

[ideaguy]

use clear nail polish on the copper wire; the dreaded green will not come back.
guaranteed.