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The demise of the loose fit

Superfluous

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Missing in action
Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, I wore jackets (and shirts) that were often – if not usually – loose fitting and/or oversized, and some of my jackets were egregiously/comically oversized. I became accustomed to loose fitting jackets and was largely unaware that my jackets did not fit me well. I was completely unaware of the fit metrics that I currently employ (e.g., shoulder seam alignment, chest spacing, etc.). I was completely unaware of my particular dimensions.

Buying loose fitting jackets (and other clothing) is easier than attempting to secure a good fit. Once you succumb to a loose fit, the acceptable tolerance/variance is huge (pardon the pun). A three inch variance in the chest dimension is no problem.

Conversely, purchasing a well fitted jacket is much more difficult. The acceptable tolerances/variances are often tiny (e.g., half an inch). It takes work to obtain a well fitted jacket, and there are often many fails along the way. To be clear, when I say “well fitted,” I am not referring to a tight fit, but rather, a good fit that tracks one’s body proportions.

I think a different fit paradigm prevailed during the 1990s and 2000s. Loose fitting jackets were more common and accepted. That said, there were plenty of folks who managed to secure well fitted jackets notwithstanding the prevailing trends.

The particular jacket design obviously has a great deal to do with the appropriate fit. Certain jacket designs are intended to fit looser, and others are intended to fit trimmer.

Anecdotally, I remember purchasing a suede jacket during the early 2000s that was a size smaller than I was accustomed to (they didn’t have my desired size). I was convinced that the jacket was too small for me, but I purchased it anyway because I otherwise loved the jacket. Today, I consider the jacket a tad too large. That shows how far I have come.

My new fit standards are largely a function of the lessons I have learned from this wonderful community. You folks taught me how a jacket should fit, and how to go about obtaining a well fitted jacket. For that, I am sincerely grateful. Now, I have several well fitted jackets that, ten years ago, I would have considered far too small. It never ceases to amaze me how far the pendulum can swing.

What about you all . . . how have your fit preferences evolved over time.
 

bn1966

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3,110
Location
UK
Throughout the 1990s and 2000s, I wore jackets (and shirts) that were often – if not usually – loose fitting and/or oversized, and some of my jackets were egregiously/comically oversized. I became accustomed to loose fitting jackets and was largely unaware that my jackets did not fit me well. I was completely unaware of the fit metrics that I currently employ (e.g., shoulder seam alignment, chest spacing, etc.). I was completely unaware of my particular dimensions.

Buying loose fitting jackets (and other clothing) is easier than attempting to secure a good fit. Once you succumb to a loose fit, the acceptable tolerance/variance is huge (pardon the pun). A three inch variance in the chest dimension is no problem.

Conversely, purchasing a well fitted jacket is much more difficult. The acceptable tolerances/variances are often tiny (e.g., half an inch). It takes work to obtain a well fitted jacket, and there are often many fails along the way. To be clear, when I say “well fitted,” I am not referring to a tight fit, but rather, a good fit that tracks one’s body proportions.

I think a different fit paradigm prevailed during the 1990s and 2000s. Loose fitting jackets were more common and accepted. That said, there were plenty of folks who managed to secure well fitted jackets notwithstanding the prevailing trends.

The particular jacket design obviously has a great deal to do with the appropriate fit. Certain jacket designs are intended to fit looser, and others are intended to fit trimmer.

Anecdotally, I remember purchasing a suede jacket during the early 2000s that was a size smaller than I was accustomed to (they didn’t have my desired size). I was convinced that the jacket was too small for me, but I purchased it anyway because I otherwise loved the jacket. Today, I consider the jacket a tad too large. That shows how far I have come.

My new fit standards are largely a function of the lessons I have learned from this wonderful community. You folks taught me how a jacket should fit, and how to go about obtaining a well fitted jacket. For that, I am sincerely grateful. Now, I have several well fitted jackets that, ten years ago, I would have considered far too small. It never ceases to amaze me how far the pendulum can swing.

What about you all . . . how have your fit preferences evolved over time.

I've gone far trimmer in fit in the last ten years since discovering Eastman Leather who changed my perceptions on what looks good, shifted a couple of stone in the last year so the trim jackets look better on :)
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
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4,944
Location
London
Being a teenager in the 90s, even my shoes were worn too large!

I know prefer a nice trim fit, and really struggle to wear things that are loose fitting.
I am actually getting rid of a new jacket because of that.
 
Last edited:
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
Yeah, 100% changed. But my body has changed 100% too, and it's harder to keep those better-fitting jackets fitting.
I go through waves of up/down and it's more of a motivator if you spent a lot on a trimmer article. In the 90's, I could have gone up/down 50 pounds and all the clothes would still have fit me. Today, I have about a 10-12 pound tolerance, and some weeks are better that others. Holidays of course are a b*tch. I should be running/riding rather than posting this :)
 

kronos77

One of the Regulars
Messages
257
Location
Pennsylvania
Too loose or too tight are at least partly perceptions based on current fashion. What you see in magazines, movies, websites and in watching thousands of people walk by will influence what you think is proper. Those loose fashions looked good enough a few decades ago to get people dressing in that sort of clothing.

Objectively, there is a classic fit, neither too loose or too baggy. That's what I try to go for. A fit that might not be in fashion but is always a good style choice.

Things are loosening up a bit in the fashion world now and in a few years we might be heading into a baggy free for all every bit as hideous as the current skinny trends.

HAs anyone seen the British TV series Lovejoy? I was watching it about 6 months back and noticed the lead character's leather jacket was two sizes too big. Plentruy of other hideous fashions on display in that show too.
 
Messages
10,181
Location
Pasadena, CA
^ Yes, I've managed to avoid the ultra-skinny trend altogether. I try to find that middle ground in fit - that way it's got more likelihood of not being put to shame as quickly when the next trend comes along - and it will.
 

Plumbline

One Too Many
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1,271
Location
UK
I'm probably still on the roomier side on here .. and probably always will be ...... I know what I like, and I like what I know :)

I'll leave the Johnny (Ramone) fit to Johnny.
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
Since discovering this place, I've learned how to properly fit into a leather jacket. The man on the street will not give you any pointers in that direction, and relatives will not serve as fit advisors. But as time has gone on, I've veered closer in preference to a looser fit, (which has always been my thing), keeping the knowledge learned here tucked in my brain while simultaneously envying the naevity of my pre-lounge self and the man on the street, wanting to break free from this fit knowledge I have acquired. I'll never be the same 2-3 size oversized jacket guy, but have found comfort in a little room...a 42 over my 40. Honors both forces at work.
 
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16,842
When I was a bit... heavier, I had this brown leather jacket that I used to wear all the time, mostly 'cause it was the only thing I could wear that didn't look like crap. Then, when I lost weight, it took me a looong while to even become aware of the fact that the jacket had become virtually unwearable. I still insisted on wearing it thinking it fits me just as it always did, being completely oblivious to the fact that I was swimming in it. I never really noticed the difference in the way clothes would fit people, or I didn't care. Until I was gifted this slim fitting motorcycle jacket (actual motorcycle jacket, sportsrider style that's supposed to be very fitted) which I was convinced was a women's jacket. I literally didn't have the courage to leave the house in it for half a year, thinking that the jacket is 11 size numbers too small and short but once I actually began wearing it, mostly 'cause I didn't have anything else to ride a motorcycle in... Well, that was it for me.
It was that jacket that changed my perception on what looks good and made me aware of the whole concept of fit. Then I started noticing stuff in the movies... And there was no going back to loose fitting jackets. Even if (when) I wanted to.

So yeah, my fit preference definitely evolved.

That said, I would've still been perfectly happy with how many of my other jackets did fit - higher end jackets that I bought afterwards - if it wasn't for this forum, though. But you see so many people here whom movie stars should look up to when it comes to jackets, clothes in general, style and fit, and it's really hard to be content with anything that's close enough. But that's not really a bad thing. :)

I still do believe that some styles look inherently better when looser. Like the Perfecto. It had became a trend for the Perfecto to be super tight and too long but I personally don't think a fitted perfecto looks nearly as cool as one that's a size too large. But that's me.
 

El Marro

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3,598
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California
I discovered the Fedora Lounge a little over a year ago. In that time I have experienced the same changes in perception regarding fit as described by most of the people who posted before me on this thread.
As a teenager and a young man I always bought my jackets and pants a bit baggy. Because that was the look I had grown up with I thought that clothes looked better that way. I now prefer a closer fit and I am buying clothes that are my size.
Transitioning to buying clothes that fit me has not been as easy as I would like. Earlier this year I ordered a Teamster through Thurston Brothers. Carrie was adamant that a 44 would fit me perfectly but I insisted on ordering a 46 anyway. The jacket arrived, and although it was beautiful, it was one size too big!
All in all I am very happy to have learned a bit about fit and style from the members of this forum. I now put more thought into the clothes that I wear, and when I look in the mirror I can see the difference.
 

Cyber Lip

Practically Family
Messages
782
Location
Seattle
That's true of me also. I used to buy my shirts and jackets exclusively in XL, when even an L is usually a tad big on me.
 

jacketjunkie

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,320
Location
Germany
I oversized in my Aero HWM and SB Roadster because I believe that is how the style is meant to look or at least looks best in my opinion. I think it would look strange if it was worn in Café Racer fashion with a 21" pit to pit in a size 40. Same with my Johnson Leathers 60s Car Coat. Nothing looks stranger to me than a body tight car coat, a style that was meant to be a relaxed, loose fit. So yeah, all three jackets above have a 24" pit to pit while I am a true size 40, but I would not want them any other.

My Vanson on the other hand has 22" pit to pit and is a fairly tight fit and I love it just as much. It's a Perfecto-style and I fit this differently to the jackets mentioned above. I would not want 24" pit to pit in this one.

So I choose between tighter or wider fit depending on style in question. Last thing.. I believe shoulder measurement is more essential than pit to pit in terms of too big. As long as the shoulder seams don't hang down your arms, you are more likely to get away with it (in my books at least). Also, not all bodies are shaped the same, even with same chest measurement on paper. I have fairly wide shoulders and a broad chest which results in me feeling restricted in my movement between my shoulder blades and around the shoulders in true size very often. I am good in the 40 Vanson because their patterns must have been modeled on greek gods judging by shoulder and arm width measurements. The Aero Board Racer in 40 with its 17" shoulders was unwearable for me. In order to move freely in that style, I would be forced to size up.
 

navetsea

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,868
Location
East Java
I still like oversize t-shirt, sweater, raglan sleeved fleece jacket, cargo pants or other soft or non structured clothes, I just never like oversize structured items like jacket or coat, not in the 90's not now...
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
I remember wearing t-shirts baggy in the eighties, during my metal-head phase. As in so baggy a small nation could have camped out under 'em... By the nineties, though, I was all about slimfit in everything. I remember it being a nightmare to find jeans I didn't find objectionably wide. By the time I arrived here in 2007, I was wearing wider and wider cuts (I often now have the opposite problem to what I used to). The only mistake I ever made with leather jackets was to go too small on one or two I owned, then had to pass them on eventually when I figured out my own size. The sprayed-on, Luftwaffe boy fit is as absurd to me as the over-baggy, hip hop look.
 

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