The Cap Faction

[Adnamira]

Ah, interesting. In the description for Retro Sport caps, they have the season best suited for. Worsted wool with satine linings are listed as Autumn and Wool Blend with Cotton Linings listed as summer - nice! I better get one of these, seeing that they are made out of the kind of wool I produce... but freak me, I am going to have a lot of caps. I better give up the women and alcohol to pay for them... I'm half way there! Not sure I can give up the alcohol though.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180686877020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I ordered the denim blue 100% wool one - not sure that makes sense, but none of this does really. I feel like a teenage boy, but instead of girly magazines hidden under the bed and in drawers, it's flippin' caps... and that is probably even more serious! Anyone know a good cap addiction clinic?

 

[cookie]

You could move onto vintage shoes and then if the addiction persists, hats, after all that is the MO for this forum.

 

[cookie]

I was looking at several caps from different makers, including Hepville, that used Reid And Taylor fabrics, and found this on their website. 'Families of products based around 17.5 micron wool, wool & cotton, cashmere and silk draw their inspiration from Reid and Taylor's rich heritage and the design team give full expression to this heritage whilst remaining sensitive to the requirements of today's designers and garment makers.' 17.5 is fine though, even for a suit... I suspect their tweeds and herringbones are probably from broader merino types and crossbred meat type sheep. You can probably bet that those Wigens caps that are marked lambswool are probably imported from wool from around the world; after-all the UK only accounts for 2% of the worlds wool production... so expect there are a blend of wools from all over the world, a lot from British Breed cross Merino sheep, in anything that isn't marked Donegal or Harris tweed. Wool ranges from gossamer to carpet, and like wine made from different grapes, varies in qualities depending on the breed of sheep. Highly crimped fine wool produces fabric that is quite stiff, like what you see in suits; whereas wool of a similar micron with a bolder crimp produces silkier, body hugging fabrics. The reason that hat people caps sit differently to tweed caps has a lot to do with that - they have a lot of Rambouillet (French Merinos) in the western US, and although woollen would be a lot finer than the tweeds.

Tweed is interesting in relation to tartan cloth. Both fabrics originated in Scotland, but tweed is a woollen fabric (fluffy, mixed length fibres) and tartans are a worsted fabric (flat, smooth, fabric with long fibres only). A reason I'm interested in caps is my interest in the fabrics. I'm really only paying much attention to tweeds for the first time as a result of the City Sport and Wigens caps I've bought recently. It makes me realise that the coarser wools have their place in the scheme of things, and the focus as a woolgrower perhaps shouldn't be to just get finer and finer all the time.

Especially these 150 micron woollen suits that crease like linen without the rumpled look that is lovely in heavier linen. And overnight the creases stay in unlike traditional 100 wool suits.

 

[Adnamira]

You could move onto vintage shoes and then if the addiction persists, hats, after all that is the MO for this forum.

Great! I was listening to a program on ABC radio about collectors and there was this one fellow who was a stay at home dad, while his wife worked, and he started buying jaffle irons (those old style sandwich makers you put in fire) and couldn't stop. His wife threatened to leave him because of it. It's funny how we get fixated on things.

 

[seabass]

Ah, interesting. In the description for Retro Sport caps, they have the season best suited for. Worsted wool with satine linings are listed as Autumn and Wool Blend with Cotton Linings listed as summer - nice! I better get one of these, seeing that they are made out of the kind of wool I produce... but freak me, I am going to have a lot of caps. I better give up the women and alcohol to pay for them... I'm half way there! Not sure I can give up the alcohol though.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180686877020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I ordered the denim blue 100% wool one - not sure that makes sense, but none of this does really. I feel like a teenage boy, but instead of girly magazines hidden under the bed and in drawers, it's flippin' caps... and that is probably even more serious! Anyone know a good cap addiction clinic?

Congrats you admitted it your flippin cap addiction, now that you faced the addiction, Dont Give Up The Acohol !
Im pourin some Johnnie Black now ! Cheers........
IM feedin my habit gonna get this http://www.danielsdisplay.com/product_detail.php?ID=3661
& More caps too ! Heck you guys enabled me to get the City Sport Linen last night. What Next.....

 

[Adnamira]

Congrats you admitted it your flippin cap addiction, now that you faced the addiction, Dont Give Up The Acohol !
Im pourin some Johnnie Black now ! Cheers........
IM feedin my habit gonna get this http://www.danielsdisplay.com/product_detail.php?ID=3661
& More caps too ! Heck you guys enabled me to get the City Sport Linen last night. What Next.....

Wow, I need one of those! One thing with me though, is I don't keep ones I don't wear. I'm selling all my kangol caps off on ebay. Nothing will ever become vintage in my cupboard, if I like it, I'll wear it, if I don't, it's gone.

Hope the City Sport Linen goes alright for you. Will be interest to see how such a large linen cap holds up.

 

[seabass]

Im like you i use em , I just have more than i can use.......
check out this link about my tailor i have over a dozen of his bespoke caps. in the article the cap he's wearin is named after me
the Che cap,,, & its his fave, http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/28/LV0M1JS11E.DTL

 

[Adnamira]

Especially these 150 micron woollen suits that crease like linen without the rumpled look that is lovely in heavier linen. And overnight the creases stay in unlike traditional 100 wool suits.

The tendency of wool not to want to crease or wrinkle is handy with shirts and caps though. I wear my Pendleton wool shirts over a t-shirt, and get quite a few wears out of them before they need cleaning, never need ironing like a cotton shirt. Pulled one that was sent to me stuffed inside a box the other day, pulled it out and put it on straight away without a sight of a wrinkle or crease. I don't know what they might be doing to make those suits hold a crease - those superfine wools are very high frequency crimp, making them stiffer (the way they sit up off the shoulder), so that might be the reason. But they are also treating wools in a lot of different ways now, making it washable, treating it to make it softer and less prickly etc. I know very little about it, considering I'm growing the stuff.

We got into a bit of trouble here in Australia, when we started breeding a different type of Merino - a bigger plainer bodied animal that had a bolder crimping, more lustrous staple. They produced more wool for the same micron, but the Italians won't buy and the Japanese ran into trouble with it, because it produced a softer, silkier fabric that wanted to drape more and not sit stiff like traditional fine wool suits. Cooler, softer fabric, but it just didn't suit traditional fashion.

 

[Adnamira]

Im like you i use em , I just have more than i can use.......
check out this link about my tailor i have over a dozen of his bespoke caps. in the article the cap he's wearin is named after me
the Che cap,,, & its his fave, http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/28/LV0M1JS11E.DTL

I'll know I am in trouble when they start naming caps after me I think things will eventually go back to that style of thing, rather than mass production. Our mass producing cheap disposable goods can't last forever - it's a false economy and unsustainable. I think in future we'll be paying more for stuff, so we'll go back to looking for quality and things that will last.

 

[seabass]

I'll know I am in trouble when they start naming caps after me I think things will eventually go back to that style of thing, rather than mass production. Our mass producing cheap disposable goods can't last forever - it's a false economy and unsustainable. I think in future we'll be paying more for stuff, so we'll go back to looking for quality and things that will last.

Maybe thats why i never wore those free Kangols ?
My brother he's a rock star so he gets all kind of free stuff like Kangols , Hoping he will wear em on stage...
He loves Australia,,,
My Tailor & i Klick well because he respects that I know exactly what i want.....

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Im like you i use em , I just have more than i can use.......
check out this link about my tailor i have over a dozen of his bespoke caps. in the article the cap he's wearin is named after me
the Che cap,,, & its his fave, http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/28/LV0M1JS11E.DTL

Cool stuff Seabass great Tailor shop My niece and her husband live is SF and when I go out to visit them will stop by his shop. It's great to see a mastercraft person doing their work. I found a link to his Made here Levis stuff Al's Attire Made Here Levi's Wish you could buy some of his stuff online. The hats would be killer.

 

[Adnamira]

Maybe thats why i never wore those free Kangols ?
My brother he's a rock star so he gets all kind of free stuff like Kangols , Hoping he will wear em on stage...
He loves Australia,,,
My Tailor & i Klick well because he respects that I know exactly what i want.....

I wanted Kangol to be good, but they are over-priced in relation to the fabrics they use in their caps. I mean they often retail dearer than City Sport Caps, but whereas you get a Donegal Tweed, Harris or 100% silk with a City Sport, you can buy a Kangol retail for $120 made of a chlorofibre (whatever that is) mesh with a bit of wool that is the equivalent of ovine bum fluff woven in it... that's such a rip-off. For a brand name factory made cap, City Sport is everything that Kangol should be if they were any good. Considering that CS are still making their caps in their country of origin, I assume paying higher wages than what Kangol is in China, they are doing a pretty good job really in comparison.

 

[Razzman]

Ah, interesting. In the description for Retro Sport caps, they have the season best suited for. Worsted wool with satine linings are listed as Autumn and Wool Blend with Cotton Linings listed as summer - nice! I better get one of these, seeing that they are made out of the kind of wool I produce... but freak me, I am going to have a lot of caps. I better give up the women and alcohol to pay for them... I'm half way there! Not sure I can give up the alcohol though.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180686877020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I ordered the denim blue 100% wool one - not sure that makes sense, but none of this does really. I feel like a teenage boy, but instead of girly magazines hidden under the bed and in drawers, it's flippin' caps... and that is probably even more serious! Anyone know a good cap addiction clinic?

Congrats, looking forward to pictures of that cap Adnamira! I like that cap, and would like to see a close up showing the color.

 

[Razzman]

Im like you i use em , I just have more than i can use.......
check out this link about my tailor i have over a dozen of his bespoke caps. in the article the cap he's wearin is named after me
the Che cap,,, & its his fave, http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/07/28/LV0M1JS11E.DTL

Great article seabass, and fine looking caps!

 

[Adnamira]

Congrats, looking forward to pictures of that cap Adnamira! I like that cap, and would like to see a close up showing the color.

It is one with the satin lining, rather than cotton, but we are in Autumn here and decided if there is room in my collection for another cap then it is probably a spring or autumn weight. Also, the worsted wool fabric is different from the tweeds and woollen caps that I have. I think the only other worsted fabric cap I have is the HP shirt weight wool cap. I perhaps should have gone grey, but I thought that colour was unusual - denim blue wool... it must be St Patricks day or something that made me reason on such a choice. I'll make sure I post some pictures when it arrives. Have three caps in-coming now - City Sport that is the same as my other one except brown; a cream, herringbone, wool, Wigens Gatsby with a cotton lining that I think is going to be a ripper; and now this one. Better go buy shares in the Postal Companies.

 

[St. Valentine]

Cool stuff Seabass great Tailor shop My niece and her husband live is SF and when I go out to visit them will stop by his shop. It's great to see a mastercraft person doing their work. I found a link to his Made here Levis stuff Al's Attire Made Here Levi's Wish you could buy some of his stuff online. The hats would be killer.

OMG, this forum is killing me! Have you seen the Cordovan boots? This gotta stop..... :eeek:

 

[Hepville]

Hey Guys!

Wow... this Cap Faction is expanding really fast... just afew days for me with limited internet and you have to read half a dozend sides! Can´t stay long... have to pay for every minute online... my real internet isn´t installed yet. Would like to comment some things written here and will do that later. So I have testet the first summer cap: Natural linen with a striped cotton lining... makes a good looking cap! Unfortunately I´ve forgotten my camera at my principal residence ... silly me!
So I have to see how i will manage that. Hopefully my internet is coming soon so I can fully participate again.

Later!

 

[seabass]

I wanted Kangol to be good, but they are over-priced in relation to the fabrics they use in their caps. I mean they often retail dearer than City Sport Caps, but whereas you get a Donegal Tweed, Harris or 100% silk with a City Sport, you can buy a Kangol retail for $120 made of a chlorofibre (whatever that is) mesh with a bit of wool that is the equivalent of ovine bum fluff woven in it... that's such a rip-off. For a brand name factory made cap, City Sport is everything that Kangol should be if they were any good. Considering that CS are still making their caps in their country of origin, I assume paying higher wages than what Kangol is in China, they are doing a pretty good job really in comparison.

Yea i just wont wear over priced stuff with a big Logo advertising it is made in a 3rd world country for profits,
When i can get something that was piecework made for a better price due to better quality materials & workmanship.
Keeping it real & supporting the local artist/Tailor that has stuff we like & know will last
Just like our passion for vintage goods & how they were made

 

[seabass]

Cool stuff Seabass great Tailor shop My niece and her husband live is SF and when I go out to visit them will stop by his shop. It's great to see a mastercraft person doing their work. I found a link to his Made here Levis stuff Al's Attire Made Here Levi's Wish you could buy some of his stuff online. The hats would be killer.

TWH be careful he not only bespokes caps with your choice of fabrics,linings,thread colors,etc
but he's got a gigantic rotating bin of caps made to go....
the bills are all leather that he sew's the fabric around
they retail around $85.00 & up a bit a fair price for the quality.
most have thick leather sweatbands
the che caps go quick so thats a to order probably,
& he has killer boots i got about 5 pair with cats paw soles & horse hide if you wish
& best of he is a really nice man & he's busy but really respects folks that know what they want & the bespoke process.
Im waiting on 3 caps & he's putting in a leather sweat in a retro-sport for me & a tweed /codoury
reline on a vintage Horsehide jacket to compliment my caps.

 

[seabass]

OMG, this forum is killing me! Have you seen the Cordovan boots? This gotta stop..... :eeek:

ST. V
the boots are killer. I was at a show recently on the Queen Mary with many boot makers & i can say Al's Are quite a compliment to those
Artesian boots & better prices also...he just does not advertise & not many vintage style fans know about the place & no on-line sales
old school go in talk, measure, wait, or get lucky & there is something in your size on the sales room floor.
back to caps he has plenty in stock at all times.