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The Bowler or Derby Hat

mercuryfelt76

One of the Regulars
Messages
209
Location
London, England
Bowlerman: great collection - both my bowlers are black - I can't find felt ones in any other colour in England.

Mayserwegener: and I thought your homburg collection was impressive. I haven't seen your fedora collection yet. Is it comparable or bigger? Also do you have a silk topper?
 
Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland

Walt

One of the Regulars
Messages
269
Location
Idaho
I was recently in my local store that has the best selection of hats in town (though it is mostly cowboy, but there are many men's dress as well) and observed a customer trying on a bowler (a lower middle grade wool one--Scala I think---just in case you think they might have Christy's or something) when his wife told him, "No (you can't get it), that makes you look like a gravedigger." Never thought of that before!
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Late 1890's - Early 1900s Howard Derby

I just got this from Bolthead. Thanks Bolt! I really wanted this derby because it was very interesting to me. I have a good amount of black derbies from the turn of the century to the 1930's, but I didnt have any tan/brown derbies. This has a very light colored tan felt with brown binding and a brown ribbon. The profile of this hat is much different than a teen's or 20's derby. The profile of the crown is very round and tall verses the flatter topped or slight bell shape of slightly later models. There is no read, but a thin fabric cord that was used as a barrier between the sweatband and the felt. The stitching is also a very thin threaded "I" stitching. Ive seen this type of method used on old top hats before the turn of the 20th century. The curl on the brim is pretty high on the sides as well. I was unable to find information on the manufacture, but this hat reminds me exactly of an old 1897 Hawes Von Gal ad.

Heres the 1897 Hawes Von Gal Ad

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Heres the Howard Derby

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Messages
17,466
Location
Maryland
I forgot to post my latest JHS Melone.

Hückel Elastic Melone, black, size 58/59. Great condition and probably dates from the 1930s. No country of orgin on the paper label but made by JHS.

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Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Thank you SO much, Lefty!!! I have been searching for info about this company for days and wasn’t able to come up with a thing. I don’t know how you found the ad, but Its really cool! You most certainly have a talent for finding information. I tried so many key words and searches, and everything just came up blank.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Josh here's the address
Howard Derby

No headshot, Josh?

Bravo, Josh! Man, that is a beauty. :eusa_clap

Josh, Fantastic! It is rare to see an old non black plus in good condition. Really like the bow treatment too.

Thanks everyone!!! I really love this hat. Wiser Hatter, thanks for the picture of the location. I kinda wish the location had an old building with the Howard name imprinted in the stone. That would be cool. Neo, I gotta take some head shots and post them. It was really early in the morning when I took these photos and a nice derby and a t-shirt wouldn’t have went very well together. LOL.
 

Lefty

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,639
Location
O-HI-O
You're welcome. I searched:
howard clothier 687 689 broadway
in Google books. As it turned out, there were only two results.
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
You're welcome. I searched:
howard clothier 687 689 broadway
in Google books. As it turned out, there were only two results.

AH! I didn't search "clothier" or the 687 & 689 together. It seems that a lot of these old advertisements were from Clothier and Furnisher magazines. I never even though to search for the word "Clothier." Very cool!
 

Joshbru3

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,409
Location
Chicago, IL
Thanks, Zetwal. I really love how detailed the old sweatband stampings were. The "Howard" font type is one of my favorites, I'm just unsure what its called.
 

zetwal

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,343
Location
Texas
AH! I didn't search "clothier" or the 687 & 689 together. It seems that a lot of these old advertisements were from Clothier and Furnisher magazines. I never even though to search for the word "Clothier." Very cool!

Yes, that is a useful word to use when running such searches.
 

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