The Bowler or Derby Hat

[Joshbru3]

I posted this hat in a different thread, but I figured that It should be here as well.

1930's Stetson Equestrian Derby:

 

[Joshbru3]

 

[buler]

More Mora....

Found another Mora derby today. See post #433 in this thread for the first one I found. This one is very similiar with the block/flange and has the interesting "almost" rear bow.

B

 

[Charlie Huang]

Won this Dunn & Co. one last night:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190505442001&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Kept on getting ones that are a size or two too small or large and at last I've got one that is in my correct size!

 

[Dreispitz]

Won this Dunn & Co. one last night:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190505442001&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

Kept on getting ones that are a size or two too small or large and at last I've got one that is in my correct size!

That looks like a piece a luck, indeed! Appears very much like some pre 1920 hat. Maybe earlier. Hm, just a feeling. Imprint and ventilation holes.

 

[ukali1066]

I'm currently in LOVE with Jude Laws brown flat topped bowler from Sherlock Holmes....In fact his whole wardrobe in that film is pretty damn superb

 

[LocktownDog]

I'm currently in LOVE with Jude Laws brown flat topped bowler from Sherlock Holmes....In fact his whole wardrobe in that film is pretty damn superb

That's quite similar to a John Bull.

 

[senoreme]

I definitely agree with you. The wardrobe was excellent

 

[bowlerman]

I've been wanting to see that film for the wardrobe alone. His top hat in the photo looks like it has chimney straight sides, with no flare, bell, or taper whatsoever. And that brim couldn't possibly be more than 1 3/4". Haven't seen too many of those specifically cited on hat websites, but it appears that Knudsen Hats makes one similar-- the "Undertaker Top Hat," and I think Bailey makes a less costly wool topper with straight sides like that, called the "Ice" or the "Speer" if you're interested.

 

[Charlie Huang]

That's quite similar to a John Bull.

Looks like a hybrid between a topper and a bowler...

TBH, Jude Law's bowler is technically classified as a Cambridge bowler but the shape is not as elegant as what Churchill wore.

 

[Viseguy]

Looks like a hybrid between a topper and a bowler...

TBH, Jude Law's bowler is technically classified as a Cambridge bowler but the shape is not as elegant as what Churchill wore.

Yes, the brim isn't just stingy, it's miserly. Mars the effect, IMO.

 

[Bernie Zack]

Yes, the brim isn't just stingy, it's miserly. Mars the effect, IMO.

When I started looking at bowlers I first came across the Bailey "Ice." It is an all wool version, and it looks almost exactly like the hat Jude Law wore in the movie. Too bad they don't make it in other colors and in a beaver felt version.

 

[bowlerman]

I think I remember several hatters' websites citing that they can make a "flat top" derby, which may or may not be similar. Tim Bender of benderhats.com would surely do it for you. I just got a hemispheric Civil War era bowler reproduction from him. Can't say enough good things about Tim or his work! I'd highly recommend him.

Also, morenohats.com has a list of "old style" custom hats that they will make. I have no personal experience with them, and have not heard anything here in TFL about their work.

 

[Lefty]

not useful to what I was searching, here's a pretty amazing resource from 1910 for clothing, hats, and shopping in general. I grabbed this, but there's plenty more to see.

 

[Effingham]

Wow! Did anyone notice the bowtie?

Wow, indeed!

No, I didn't -- but now I can't UN-notice it.

 

[Mr. Garrulus]

I have an question about grey and brown bowlers. When during the day and/or which occasions do you wear them? Or are they just different colours to match different coloured suits/dresses?

 

[bowlerman]

My guess would be to match different suits. I've been under the impression that the only bowler associated with any kind of traditional formal getup is black.

overdue photos of the Mallory. Try to match a suit to the colors of the first pic!

[/IMG]

and after my cleaning attempt-- note the strange patterns of puffed out felt. anyone have any idea what may have caused that/ how to fix?

[/IMG]

[/IMG]

 

[007]

Well it's finally happened.......a thread that made me get off my butt and dig my Stetson derby out of storage.

Very classy. May I ask what the width of the brim is on that derby?

 

[Brad Bowers]

I've been doing some digging into the early history of the Derby (probably the hardest thing I've ever researched), and ran across this poem. It's the earliest reference to the Derby through Google News, dating to September 30, 1864. That's four years after the accepted year of introduction of the hat. By this point, it's become well-enough known that the name is synonymous with the style. I've also run across non-advertisement references in 1865.

There are several variations of the naming of the Derby, and most are similar. James H. Knapp of Crofut & Knapp always gets the credit for making the hat, but a jobber's clerk in New York City (attributed to the firm of Henderson & Bird) named the hat. Some references say the clerk was English. Some references say the clerk named the hat after the Earl of Derby (he was supposed looking at picture of the Earl in a newspaper wearing a bowler), while others attribute it to the clerk naming it after the English Derby horse race. Lord Derby was no longer prime minister in 1860, and subsequently isn't mentioned very often in the NY Times that year - not that the Times is the only paper, it's just the most easily searchable. I'm more inclined to go with the horse race, but it's mentioned prominently in early summer at the running of the Derby, and the story goes that the hat was introduced in fall.

There is an American Derby, but it doesn't start until 1884.

Anyway, here is the poem/advertisement:

From the Hartford Daily Courant, September 30, 1864
The Interlude
Though History, my friends, has always taken well
We now propose, for just this once, some other things to tell;
So first we’ll name the leading gem – the Fall and Winter tile;
No Gent who would appear in form, should fail to wear this style.
Then next appears the Derby Hat, with the top quite round you know –
With those who fail to buy the silk, this hat is all the go.
Then there comes the Hancock Hat, the Kersarge and the Planter;
Now all who want those wide brims, we’ll fit you instanter.
And as the presidential war brings out both high and low,
We have the Presidential Cap, which must be all the go.
Besides a host of other styles, some dear and other cheap,
With Caps of fur to clothe the head, and Socks to clothe the feet,
There’s the Buckskin Glove, we’ve got a pile to fit both great and small,
With Castor, Kid, Silk, and Fur to keep you warm this Fall.
And Under-Shirts we keep on hand, both wool and cotton too,
Besides a lot of Scarfs and Ties of every kind that’s new.
If you want anything to wear, Gentlemen call on
BUNCE, 307 Main St. opp. State House


Brad

 

[delectans]

Delightful! Thanks for posting this, Brad.