Stretch-O-Block Advice Needed

[clintfisher]

Hey gang, I just scored this beaut! Primarily going to be using it for reblocking. That said I do have a few 7's I want to stretch to 7 1/8's. I think I've read pretty much every stretching thread here but nothing directly related to how to properly use this tool.

I've done some googling and youtube searching but not finding anything definitive on it with regards to stretching.

I'm wondering how long to plug it in, and how to correctly use the heat on my vintage fedoras.

My approach was going to be lightly lexol the outside of the sweat, then steam the ribbon and outside of the crown. Place it on this block and slowly start stretching it out 1/8".

Seems one is supposed to leave it on the block for a day or so?

Thanks for any assistance gang.

 

[Bob Roberts]

Thats GREAT! I want one. Lol.

 

[RBH]

Nice!
You will get plenty of advice...
and my advice is don't plug it in.

 

[rogerstg]

Nice!
You will get plenty of advice...
and my advice is don't plug it in.

+1. Notice there is no ground prong. Metal device, especially with no ground is not something I'd play with.

Great stretcher though.

Roger

 

[g.durand]

clintfisher, the key operative word is "slowly". The mechanical advantage of that screw could have you popping stitches in the sweatband if you try to make it happen too fast. A couple of drawbacks to using a stretcher are possibly causing the brim to warp and the sweatband to telegraph through the felt of the crown, leaving a permanently visible ridge. Some felts don't do it and some do, especially if they are of the thin, lightweight variety. Putting steam to the crown while the hat is being stretched will make that more likely. I try to apply steam only to the part of the crown above the sweatband and let the stretcher alone do the work of stretching the sweatband. I've also found that some hats will stretch easily and remain stretched and others immediately return to the original size. It's a hit or miss proposition.

 

[Lean'n'mean]

If you want stretch a hat up a size ( from 7 to 71/8) & that's 1 cm, you'll have to take out the sweatband as not only will the leather not stretch that much however slowly you go but the stiching won't either & will probably enlarge, if not tear the stitching holes in the felt. If you get a thin sharp blade & slice the stiching under the sweatband, it will leave the thread ends in the stitch holes which will allow you see to re-use the same holes when sewing back in the sweatband.(you simply pull out the thread ends as you go)
As for stretching a hat I find soaking it in warm water then letting it dry slowly (it will take a day at least to dry, probably 2) over a block or hat stretcher of the size wanted gives better & more permanant results than just by using steam.( the felt is less likely to tear as well ) There will be ' brim warp' but you can iron out the brim with a hat stretcher in situ (something like a hat jack) & when flat you can re-shape the brim how you choose.

Edit : oh, forgot to mention,you'll have to remove ribbons/ hatbands too of course

 

[EstherWeis]

I wouldn't plug it in either, I'm always suspicious when comes that and quality felt. :O

Take out the sweatband and if there is a ribbon on the outside take that of too.
I usually wet the inside(avoid the top)with a spray bottle and then steam.
Like lean'n'mean already mentioned, it's good to wet it.
The spray bottle is just handy because you can be precise.
Leave it on the stretcher for at least 2 hrs. You can feel from time to time to check if it's still damp.

Then it's just new sweats and ribbons...


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[moontheloon]

I've stretched probably a hundred hats up a size without ever removing anything and simply using a hatjack and some steam resulting in zero damage.

some are more stubborn than others and may need to sit on a jack over night .

it's all about patience, moving slowly, watching and listening

the hat will tell you when you are nearing the point of no return

 

[DOGMAN]

I think I'm the only one crazy enough to turn my stretcher on.I've used it heated to stretch hats and a sweatband.

 

[Frunobulax]

I'm with Moon. I have had no trouble going up a size. The Daltons I posted last weekend, were stretched from 7 1/8 to fit my 7 1/4 head by reforming the entire hat over a 58 cm block, using distilled water and steam. I've also had good luck with a vintage stretcher I have, but the block method seems to work better, and I can leave it on the block for a few days so it memorizes it's new size. When I initially spoke with Optimo about going up a size, however, they wanted to remove the sweat and completely rebuild the hat, like Esther and Lean n' mean. I guess it's the chance you have to take if you wish.

As far as plugging the thing in. it's a simple heating element. Rewiring with a grounding plug would only take a few minutes.

Also, I want one of those too!

 

[EstherWeis]

I've actually stretched some hats by just steaming and then putting it on for a couple of hrs. But that's my own, i wouldn't do it for a client.
Not the most pleasant feeling ( moist and clammy) but those are my fav's to wear. It really molds to your head that way.

A jack? Hmm, interesting!
No ridge where the wood ends?




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[moontheloon]

A jack? Hmm, interesting!
No ridge where the wood ends?




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never experienced a ridge

that would only happen if you are stretching farther than you should

I would ever stretch more than say... 7 1/8 to 7 1/4

any more than that you would be asking for trouble with the method I use ... luckily I never need more than that

I would never buy a 7 and think I could get it to my size

 

[tommyK]

The problem with stretching hats with one of these devices is that if you leave the sweatband in it will leave a pronounced ridge in the felt. Not a big deal on wide ribbons but on thin ribbons it looks awful. Since I don't usually take out the sweatbands (many are delicate on vintage hats) I developed a technique to flatten out the ridge in the felt after.

 

[Frunobulax]

The problem with stretching hats with one of these devices is that if you leave the sweatband in it will leave a pronounced ridge in the felt. Not a big deal on wide ribbons but on thin ribbons it looks awful. Since I don't usually take out the sweatbands (many are delicate on vintage hats) I developed a technique to flatten out the ridge in the felt after.

Please share?

 

[RJR]

Yes,please do...

 

[tommyK]

I'm reluctant to go into it, honestly.

In other threads where I've started to discuss some of my techniques and tricks for refurbing vintage hats I've been inundated by people chiming in with how I'm doing this or that all wrong. Some of it quite acrimonious. Of course these comments were from people who never show any vintage hats

 

[gtdean48]

Old, local hatter told me that once the sweatband goes in, the heat to the leather should be avoided at all cost, steam or heated stretcher.
I've always avoided heating a sweatband directly, always do that area from the felt side. YMMV....

 

[EstherWeis]

The theory goes : leather can shrink or crack when exposed to a combination of moisture and heat.
That is why people are cautious i suppose ..,


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[Frunobulax]

The theory goes : leather can shrink or crack when exposed to a combination of moisture and heat.
That is why people are cautious i suppose ..,


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I have, unfortunately, witnessed that first-hand.

Tommy, I promise to not criticize your technique. Moon and I are already bucking the hatmaker's (Esther's) advice!

 

[moontheloon]

I have, unfortunately, witnessed that first-hand.

Tommy, I promise to not criticize your technique. Moon and I are already bucking the hatmaker's (Esther's) advice!

HA!!!

... for the record my steam never comes in direct contact with the sweat ... huge no no

a hatter from the west coast that I email back and forth with said to steam around the ribbon some but to generously steam the top of the brim when stretching