Something terrible happened the other day...

[EggHead]

I decided to cut my beautiful long hair :eusa_doh:

It was about foot long and I wore it in a pony tail

Now it's close to a crew cut and my hats are a size too big. Most were already stuffed with some paper towels, stuffing more paper is problematic.

Now this problem will get resolved in 3 months or so. I will grow more hair by then. I will get a new hat from EA a size smaller.

I wonder if I can reuse the same sweatbands and just resize them and resew them into the same hat or does a hat need re-blocking too? If send one or two off, that may take 3 months too.

 

[Inusuit]

I took a Stetson 4X western from 7 5/8 to 7 1/2 by cutting and restitching the sweatband at the back. I bought it cheap on Ebay, so no risk. Wouldn't try it on, say, a 7X Open Road.

 

[Oldsarge]

Deepest sympathies but as one who keeps what little is left of his hair crewcut (as befits a retired MSG), I am at least relieved that the problem you have, I will never face.

 

[EggHead]

I took a Stetson 4X western from 7 5/8 to 7 1/2 by cutting and restitching the sweatband at the back. I bought it cheap on Ebay, so no risk. Wouldn't try it on, say, a 7X Open Road.

I may go down about a size and a half.

What was your method of placing the initial stitches? Did you do front/back and sides first and then the rest?

Or as I read, you just did the back part only?

Any special thread type to use?

Did you have any problems with warping felt?

 

[tonyb]

I don't necessarily recommend you try it, as it can indeed go wrong, but an existing sweatband can be effectively sized down by undoing the stitching (or tape or both, as the case may be) at the rear seam and then removing some of the leather on either side.

The procedure might be a lot clearer with pictures, but I'll try to explain it and with any luck it'll make sense. What you're aiming for is a sharp V where the two sides of the sweatband meet, with the point at the bottom, where the reed ferrule is (provided it's a reeded sweatband, of course). Turn the sweatband inside out. Undo the stitching. Using a straight edge and an X-Acto knife, cut one side of the sweatband, with the straight edge on the ferrule and slightly angled away as it rises toward the top of the sweatband. Do the same on the other side. Then retape or restitch the halves to each other. If you restitch by hand, you may wish to use a ruler and a pushpin to make pilot holes first. That ought to make for a neater job.

Keep in mind that a quarter inch on each side would be a half inch total, and a half inch difference in hat size is quite a difference.

I routinely do a variation on this technique, as it makes for a springier sweatband, which I find more comfortable, as well as a hat a bit more forgiving as to size, as the hat gets tighter the further it is pulled down on the wearer's head.

Anyway, I hope I've conveyed the gist of it.

 

[Mulceber]

Have you considered the lampshade trick? -M

 

[fedoralover]

I don't necessarily recommend you try it, as it can indeed go wrong, but an existing sweatband can be effectively sized down by undoing the stitching (or tape or both, as the case may be) at the rear seam and then removing some of the leather on either side.

The procedure might be a lot clearer with pictures, but I'll try to explain it and with any luck it'll make sense. What you're aiming for is a sharp V where the two sides of the sweatband meet, with the point at the bottom, where the reed ferrule is (provided it's a reeded sweatband, of course). Turn the sweatband inside out. Undo the stitching. Using a straight edge and an X-Acto knife, cut one side of the sweatband, with the straight edge on the ferrule and slightly angled away as it rises toward the top of the sweatband. Do the same on the other side. Then retape or restitch the halves to each other. If you restitch by hand, you may wish to use a ruler and a pushpin to make pilot holes first. That ought to make for a neater job.

Keep in mind that a quarter inch on each side would be a half inch total, and a half inch difference in hat size is quite a difference.

I routinely do a variation on this technique, as it makes for a springier sweatband, which I find more comfortable, as well as a hat a bit more forgiving as to size, as the hat gets tighter the further it is pulled down on the wearer's head.

Anyway, I hope I've conveyed the gist of it.

I've never heard of doing that Tony, but it sounds like a better option than a lot of stuffing under the sweatband. I've got some a bit large that aren't too expensive that I'm going to give that a try on. Thanks for the tip.

fedoralover

 

[EggHead]

Thanks Tony, I think I understand. Cut the V with lets say marking 5mm at the bottom of each side and 7mm at the top?

I have examined the inside of the sweatband and felt and I see that the sweatband is stitched to felt via some cloth which is attached to either reed or the leather sweatband. I can't see that. I think I would undo the stitches of that cloth which attaches it to the felt. It also looks like I will have to remove the liner and the ribbon to get a clearer view of what to do (and then reattach them. BTW, the guinea pig will be the hat in my avatar Akubra Leisure Time.

I have to say that I feel a little uncertain and still haven't mustered up the courage to do it. It's the stitching back part that worries me.

 

[tonyb]

Are you sure you have to remove the band ribbon, Egg? Can you turn the sweatband out? If so, you ought to be able to separate the ends of the sweatband without disassembling anything else, I'd think.

As to the other question, regarding how much leather to trim ...

I'd remove as little leather as possible (preferably none at all) at the bottom of sweatband, where the reed ferrule is, and angle outward toward the top edge. If you trim away leather at the bottom, you'll get a gap. If you leave it tight at the bottom, when you pull the halves together it should make for a clean, tight seam.

 

[EggHead]

I see, so you are saying not to remove the sweatband from the hat, just turn it out, cut the V in it and reattach the end points of the leather sweatband back. This would create a kind of workers helmet inner thingy or bicycle helmet thingy. I thing then probably it would not work for more than 5mm from each top end.

 

[Corky]

Why apply a permanent solution to a temporary problem?

I'd say go to your local hardware store and check out their selection of rolls of foam window insulation.

Calculate the thickness of foam insulation you need to make the hat fit securely, invest in a roll, and insert a ring of foam under your leather sweatband.

When your hair grows out, remove the foam.

 

[EggHead]

I actually have some of this foam insulation. I will have to check out this solution too and see how it works out, though already with pieces of paper towel the sweatband looks like a thin sausage. Thanks Corky.

 

[navarre]

As one of your hatters, I have to say Tony gives some sound directions in sizing down a hat without removing the sweatband.

I took your initial post to say that you are planning to regrow your hair in about 3 months. If that is true, then the foam insulation trick may keep you happy in the meantime. If you decide you like your new short hair, then a little off the sweats will probably do the trick. I would not recommend the lampshade trick as it is uncontrollable. Many a lounger has had luck with it, but as a hat maker, it makes my skin crawl.

If you decide to cut the sweats, I am sure you are capable. Tony's directions look great and are what I would have recommended as well. Knowing you own quite a few hats, sending them out to one of us means not only time, but cost. Even at flat rate parcel post, a hat cost about $14 to ship each way.

I know all of us here in the lounge are more than happy to help you along the way(hat maker or hat wearer). If you make them work, great! If not, then the cost will most likely be the same as if you had never made the attempt.

Keep us informed, this is what the Lounge is all about. We are all here to help each other.

 

[job]

Try soaking the lower portion of the hat and see if that helps. It may shrink some.

 

[Aureliano]

What's the lampshade option. Never heard of that...

 

[fedoralover]

What's the lampshade option. Never heard of that...

You dampen the sweatband and set it on top of a lamp and let the heat from the bulb dry out the sweat and shrink it down. A little scary but it can work. If using heat I prefer to dampen the sweat and use a hair dryer on it. Same effect with more control, but on a vintage hat and sweat band it's still a gamble as some have seen their vintage sweatbands roll up and basically disinigrate from the process.

fedoralover

 

[cybergentleman]

I suggest padding the front and rear or the sweat with slightly more paper or the sides- not all the way around. you might find that slight asymmetry in your skull will permit this just enough...avoid permanently shrinking things- that will leave you plenty of heartache when you grow back your hair.

I decided to cut my beautiful long hair :eusa_doh:

It was about foot long and I wore it in a pony tail

Now it's close to a crew cut and my hats are a size too big. Most were already stuffed with some paper towels, stuffing more paper is problematic.

Now this problem will get resolved in 3 months or so. I will grow more hair by then. I will get a new hat from EA a size smaller.

I wonder if I can reuse the same sweatbands and just resize them and resew them into the same hat or does a hat need re-blocking too? If send one or two off, that may take 3 months too.

 

[Sam Craig]

Wow!

Lots of scary suggestions.

The best and most comfortable way to downsize a good hat is microfleece

Pic up some remnants at Wally World ... couple of bucks ... don't worry about the colors yuk, yuk

cut it into slips that are just shy of being as wide as the sweat and tuck them in

As it's worn it will assume the right shape and you might need to add another layer

I've tried all sorts of materials and micro fleece works the best

It beats messin up a good hat

Sam

 

[Short Balding Guy]

I am with Sam - IMO best to be conservative rather than suffer un-recoverable damage.

This winter I picked up some ebay cheaper hats to work around with and one of my projects needed a bit of modification to sizing - I chose to alter the leather band. Oh man did that not produce a result that I enjoyed. The split and stiching worked, but was annoying to wear. Subsequetly the leather again changed it's dimensions in humidity and now I can not get it to a point to wear comfortably. I now need to look at another leather band. Jeesh..

My wife suggested early winter to check out the crafters foam at Michaels. I went with her, which was another excuse for her to scrapbook supply shop, and she showed me the sheets of white closed cell foam. The foam does not conpress easily,as it is very dense. No water absorbsion at all. I got a couple of sheets. I cut with my wife's tools, strips thin enough to go behind the leather band. It conforms well, but does not leave the band puckered like the foam or fleece did for me. The sheets in white work like a charm! IMO, easy and cheap to try this solution before cutting and stiching.

Bald works to better stabalize my hat size, but the weather and natural materials of the felt hat works against me. Hence, I can not reccomend shaving bald just to avoid sizing issues!

Best, Eric -

 

[dhermann1]

Just a little off topic question. If your hair was that long, did you think of maybe donating to one of those organizations that makes wigs for cancer patients? Some gray haired dude might have appreciated it.