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Single breasted peak lapel

Marc Chevalier

Gone Home
Messages
18,192
Location
Los Feliz, Los Angeles, California
Ghos7a55assin said:
The problem is if someone bought it, you couldn't be able to alter it to become single breasted or double breasted...you'd always have that 1.5 breasted jacket. The balance would just get thrown off, I think, if you tried to change it.

Actually, the balance would get restored to what it originally was meant to be. This is, in fact, a high-gorge double-breasted jacket. It looks VERY much like a GERMAN suit jacket. German d/b jackets from the 1930s had very high gorges, and highly placed breast pockets. Wild Root, Baron Kurtz and Herringbone Kid can attest to this.
 

Bargepole

New in Town
Messages
42
Matt Deckard said:
. . . Ralph Lauren Blue Label Polo suits. The armholes on those jackets are higher cut like those in the 50's and 60's, then compare the fit of the Polo suit to that of a jacket you can find at JC Penny's and you will see a marked difference.

Ralph Lauren's suits are, I suspect, a direct steal from... no, rip-off of... no, hommage to my tailor, the great Douglas Hayward of London. Ralph goes in, gets a few suits made (Hayward's speciality is making up very lightweight cloth so that it hangs beautifully like an 18oz worsted), takes 'em home, dismantles them and, next season in the Ralph Lauren range... guess what? Been doing it for years.

I asked Hayward why he didn't charge him rights. "Can't copyright a bloody suit," he said, "and anyway I can't be bothered with the hassle." Same reason he didn't answer the Bond wardrobe people. "All the crew would want one, too. Can't be bothered with that. Let Brioni do it."

A good man, Doug. Incidentally, I went in there once (his shop in Mount Street is like a club; on that occasion Roger Moore was there when I arrived, nattering about cashmere, and while I was there Michael Caine and Lord Rothschild came in for a cup of tea and a chat, all of which cut ME down to size okay) and there were a couple of really, really tiny suits hanging in the workroom.

"Oh," I said, "That's quite sweet; someone getting his little son his first bespoke?"

"No," said Hayward, "They're Ralph's."
 

herringbonekid

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,016
Location
East Sussex, England
i just bought this late 20s/early 30s SB jacket...

30swhitejacket.jpg


...not a peaked lapel, but still interesting. it's made of ultra lightweight cord-cotton and has no lining whatsoever.
 

Tony in Tarzana

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,276
Location
Baldwin Park California USA
I was watching Late Show with David Letterman last night, and Dave had a peak lapel DB, and his guest had a peak lapel SB. I know Dave is anything but a clothes horse and just wears what his wardrobe people hand him, but I guess the peak lapel is coming back!
 

silhouette53

One of the Regulars
Messages
212
Location
Birmingham, England
Tony in Tarzana said:
I was watching Late Show with David Letterman last night, and Dave had a peak lapel DB, and his guest had a peak lapel SB. I know Dave is anything but a clothes horse and just wears what his wardrobe people hand him, but I guess the peak lapel is coming back!

And so it should !! I've always thought that the peaked lapel looks way better than ordinary (notched?) lapels, especially on a suit. A S/B tweed 'sports' jacket is a pretty ordinary looking garment generally, but if it has a good tailored fit and has peaked lapels then it becomes something else entirely - just my opinion. I'd love to get hold of such a jacket in Donegal tweed, the kind with those little coloured flecks in if you know what I mean (not the best description I'll admit !lol )
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
Tony in Tarzana said:
I was watching Late Show with David Letterman last night, and Dave had a peak lapel DB, and his guest had a peak lapel SB. I know Dave is anything but a clothes horse and just wears what his wardrobe people hand him, but I guess the peak lapel is coming back!

Letterman has been wearing bespoke suits for nearly a decade. He was fitted for his first suit, on air, by a top NYC tailor(Nino Corvato?). He wears DB's exclusively and of course a DB must have PL.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
J. M. Stovall said:
At least he stopped wearing sneakers with his suits, remember that!?!

Yes, I remember and it was truly tragic. He now wears loafers, just a venial sin.
 

Tomasso

Incurably Addicted
Messages
13,719
Location
USA
jake_fink said:
He can't seem to figure out how to button his jacket either.

Absolutely, he buttons the inside button but then fidgets(buttoning/ unbuttoning) with the outside button. Very disconcerting, to me.
 

MudInYerEye

Practically Family
Messages
988
Location
DOWNTOWN.
Yowsa yowsa yowsa.
Just saw X-Men 3, which was horrible, and noticed Professor Xavier was wearing a three piece single breasted peak lapeled suit for a good portion of his scenes, which was eventually dismantled thread-by-thread by the Dark Phoenix. Fascinating stuff.
 

Matt Jones

Familiar Face
Messages
58
herringbonekid said:
i just bought this late 20s/early 30s SB jacket...

30swhitejacket.jpg


...not a peaked lapel, but still interesting. it's made of ultra lightweight cord-cotton and has no lining whatsoever.

GREAT jacket!! Hope it didn't break the bank. Wouldn't mind finding something like that for myself.

Someone needs to show these pics to J Peterman.
 

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