Shawl Collar Cardigans

[Dinerman]

The letters are RL (no, not Ralph Lauren). They're the initials of the original owner, from whose family I bought it from. They weren't sure when it was actually made.

As far as precise dating goes, it's hard to say for sure. The style is not out of character for the 1930s, but since it's hand knit, it's difficult to say when it was actually made. Having a label style or a makers name always helps greatly. The The zipper seems like it's just a little too long for where the roll of the collar wants to be. A button front pattern adapted for a zip front, maybe? Or just the zipper that was on hand was a bit longer that what was called for but they put it in anyway?
Zippers are super helpful for dating mass produced items, but on something like this, while I can tell you when the zip was made, it could have put in immediately or it could have been something that was laying around and put in years later.

 

[Mr. Speakeasy]

That's fair, it definitely is an interesting looking sweater with the zipper going that high up, I quite like it.

 

[casechopper]

Pendleton picked up from STP for about $70.
It's very thick and warm and the wool is soft and not itchy at all compared to my Sou'west chunky. All in all very nice for the price.

 

[Mr. Speakeasy]

Here's a few shawl collar sweaters I have in my collection; the first is technically not a cardigan, it was made by Spalding and I believe it dates to around the 1920s, Ralph Lauren recreated this same sweater a while back but this is the real McCoy. Granted it could do with a proper wash, but I don't want to risk wrecking the felt applique.

And here's a curling sweater that probably dates around the 1940s-50s

And heres a couple cowichan sweaters with shawl collars, both dating around the 40s and 50s would be my guess

And here's a page that advertises the designs of both these sweaters, i found the picture online and they did not say when it was printed.

 

[scotrace]

Swell cap and sweater.

 

[herringbonekid]

new shawl collar cardigan by RRL:

search '13 Black Cats' to see where the inspiration for the badge came from.

 

[herringbonekid]

their site shot of the above:

another nice recent one:

 

[Rudie]

Spectacular! I hope Simon is going to make something similar with looong sleeves.

What fabric are your trousers? Looks similar to Doppelpilot/Deutschleder.

 

[herringbonekid]

Rudie, remember that there's 2" of cuff turned back on those sleeves, which you could leave unturned and would take the sleeve length to about 26.5".

the trouser fabric is a fancy stripe cotton (quite faded now since they were made).

 

[devilish]

I really like that Black Cat RRL but it's such a shame that RL charges so much for things made in China. It's something that drives me nuts. Especially when they trade so heavily on 'American Heritage'.

 

[Edward]

their site shot of the above:

THat is lovely. I would adore to have one of those..... what's the damage? Significant, I imagine?

Spectacular! I hope Simon is going to make something similar with looong sleeves.

Yes! A cardigna like that would be a great addition to the SJC range. I'd also love to see Simon have a go at motorcycle sweaters. There are some nice ones around, but not many doing really nice period repros here in Europe. There was a French company, Jersey Excellence, or such, that used to do them. I saw them at Rhythm Riot in 2012, went back in 2013 ready to buy a couple, but alas they seem to have disappeared. Their website no longer exists, so they must have shut down. They were really nice - proper wool, and a plain one came in at just on GBP100, while one with motorcycle branding or such about GBP30 higher.

I really like that Black Cat RRL but it's such a shame that RL charges so much for things made in China. It's something that drives me nuts. Especially when they trade so heavily on 'American Heritage'.

As long as they're treating their workforce fairly, paying them a fair wage for the location and such, I don't really care where they make them. I just wish they would do them at a slightly lower price!

 

[herringbonekid]

THat is lovely. I would adore to have one of those..... what's the damage? Significant, I imagine?

£360. i've been looking for the perfect shawl collar cardigan for about four years now, and was prepared to pay when the right one showed up.
bear in mind that good condition 1920s-30s originals can go for £500 to £800 on US ebay, then there's import tax to pay on top if you live in the UK.
anyway, that's how i justify it to myself.

 

[Rudie]

Ouch, I don't think I would be prepared to shell out that kind of money for a cardigan. But it is awfully nice and certainly suits you big time.

Is that bow tie vintage or did you make it yourself, hbk? I really adore how well you put your look together.

 

[herringbonekid]

Ouch, I don't think I would be prepared to shell out that kind of money for a cardigan. But it is awfully nice and certainly suits you big time.

when you weigh up how long i've been trying to find a really good original or repro shawl collar cardigan i don't think it's so bad.
also, consider how much people around here spend on repro leather jackets which are in far greater supply than good shawl collar cardigans.

Is that bow tie vintage or did you make it yourself, hbk? I really adore how well you put your look together.

thanks, the bow tie is made out of a standard 20s-30s U.S. tie which had a couple of holes on the front, so i re-cut it into a bow tie:

i put the original label on the neckband :

 

[Rudie]

Really nice. Kudos. This is a great way to repurpose old, unwearable ties. Is it a wool tie? Can you adjust the length or is it a fixed length?

 

[herringbonekid]

Is it a wool tie? Can you adjust the length or is it a fixed length?

not sure of the content. could be a wool / rayon blend. there wasn't enough fabric to make it adjustable.

 

[Edward]

£360. i've been looking for the perfect shawl collar cardigan for about four years now, and was prepared to pay when the right one showed up.
bear in mind that good condition 1920s-30s originals can go for £500 to £800 on US ebay, then there's import tax to pay on top if you live in the UK.
anyway, that's how i justify it to myself.

Have they got them in the UK? It's a lot (at £250 odds, same price as an Aero Waterfront, I'd have jumped on it), but not totally beyond the notion of buying.... I found them on thed RRL US site (oddly, not the UK website) at $500, so I figured about £350. I might go snooping on that. Wonder if any of them will make their way to TK Maxx?? It reall is a nice one, and, as you say, compared to the cost of an original....

when you weigh up how long i've been trying to find a really good original or repro shawl collar cardigan i don't think it's so bad.
also, consider how much people around here spend on repro leather jackets which are in far greater supply than good shawl collar cardigans.

I think it would be considered cheap for an equivalent leather jacket (Say, GBP650 for an Aero pre-war halfbelt model). I suppose it's easier for a lot of us to justify the leather because it has a durability factor that isn't subject to moths.... Still....

thanks, the bow tie is made out of a standard 20s-30s U.S. tie which had a couple of holes on the front, so i re-cut it into a bow tie:

i put the original label on the neckband :

Nice job. You ever considered a sideline in doing this sort of thing? Must be a lot of folks have a vintage tie or two that could provide at least the blade ends (with some heavy ribbon in the middle for an adjustable band). Nice way of giving a new life to atie that has otherwise been damaged beyond wearing.

 

[herringbonekid]

Have they got them in the UK?

yes... RRL, Mount Street. if you've never been you're in for a treat... even if you don't spend anything.

Nice job. You ever considered a sideline in doing this sort of thing?

i've considered many possible ventures to do with tailoring and so far none of them have got further than the ideas stage. i blame not having enough time.

 

[Two Types]

HBK: so that's what it looks like! Personally, I prefer the blue one with the stripes - not that I could justify buying either of them.

That bow tie is excellent. Having seen it close up I would never have guessed it was a conversion.

 

[herringbonekid]

HBK: so that's what it looks like! Personally, I prefer the blue one with the stripes - not that I could justify buying either of them.

i tried the blue striped one on, but it didn't suit me. as soon as i saw the dingy colours of the burgundy one sitting on a shelf i was sold.