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Shave cream vs shave soap?

tylerevansokay

One of the Regulars
Messages
115
Location
Fort Worth, TX
I've got really sensitive skin, and I often get razor burn/razor irritation on the corners of my face below my ears, and sometimes on my chin. I've been using the regular Proraso shave cream for a couple of years now with minor irritation, but recently it's been getting worse. My safety razor somehow collected a bit of rust on it, so I assumed that was the issue and switched to one of my other razors, and that seemed to do the trick. Now I'm back down to my minor irritation again... of course, I'd like to be completely free of skin irritation, but I don't know if that's possible.
Can anyone speak to using this, the Ultra Sensitive Proraso shave soap as opposed to the shave cream? Pros and cons? Differences? Thanks!

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ALSO! Anyone know if there's a good way to get a safety razor rust free so I may use my old trusty one again until I can invest in a high dollar Merkur? Thanks again!
 

Vintage lover

A-List Customer
Messages
359
Location
In times past
I have used Trumper's Almond for a while with relatively no problems. I have also heard good things about Truefitt and Hill's products. Concerning the removal of rust from a safety razor, you might try very fine grade steel wool. They also make specific products for rust removal.
 

Bull Moose

Familiar Face
Messages
76
Location
Central FL
I find irritation is more caused by a dull blade, or shaving too agressively. Shaving is a slow process for me taking several shaves to fully remove facial hair. I have tried shaving on a higher setting (ie 5) on a adjustable razor, and it ofter causes irritation on the neck area. After every shave, I open the razor, and wash out the blade, and set it aside, to allow the razor to dry, and I have no issues with rust. I have had decent results with the Personna double edge blades at wallyworld. I have tried others I bought online also with satisfactory results.

This guy on youtube has lots on good info and reviews
http://www.youtube.com/user/mantic59

I also find better shaving results with some of the better brushes on the market. The cheap ones don't make good lather, and that causes more irritation.
 

Ed13

Familiar Face
Messages
65
Location
Toronto
I find triple milled soaps give the best lather. I little trickier to lather in the beginning and a good badger brush is needed that will hold enough water. My favorite by far is Mitchels Wool Fat soap also re-branded as Kent soap. It was sold cheaply en ebay by Kent but may no longer be available. Even at full price it is a good deal since it lasts a long, long time.
 

dhermann1

I'll Lock Up
Messages
9,154
Location
Da Bronx, NY, USA
By far the most effective thing is to soak your beard for a while before starting to shave. Taking a hot wash cloth and just covering your face for half a minute does wonders to soften up the whiskers. If you've ever had a barber shave, or seen images of it, you'll see the customer sitting there with a hot towel wrapped around his face for a minute or so. Does wonders. Make it as hot and wet as you can stand without scalding yourself.
 

Feraud

Bartender
Messages
17,190
Location
Hardlucksville, NY
Irritation may be caused by a dull blade, allergy to a particular shaving cream, direction of shaving, etc.
Try a new blade, good face prep (hot shower, or whatever you prefer) lather well and maybe try another shaving cream. Pay attention to how your beard grows in and focus on good technique. The way you shave one part of your face may leave irritation on another.

For razor cleaning, try with an old toothbrush and toothpaste. This provides a quick and easy clean for most razor crud.
 

Mikey P

One of the Regulars
Messages
111
Location
New Jersey
I've been using soaps more and more lately, seems like they are less finicky when it comes to the water to lather ratio. Tabac and Institute Karite are my favorites. I would like to try Mitchell's Wool Fat sometime, but my skin is sensitive to lanolin.

And I highly recommend the Merkur barber pole safety razor. That and the red Personnas have really cut down on the skin irritation for me.

Remember not to press down when shaving, and don't go whisker hunting!! I do a 3 pass shave and that usually gives me a really close shave, but any more and I get really bad razor burn.

Good luck!
 

Tripnastic

New in Town
Messages
17
Location
St.Louis, Mo.
I'm prone to irritation myself. I've found that since switching to a shaving soap instead of a cream that I have much less.

I shave BEFORE I shower, which is a little unusual. I start with a hot towel for about a minute, then I use a moisturizer lotion. Finally I use the shave soap.

While in the shower I make sure I use a face wash with salicylic acid.
 

davestlouis

Practically Family
Messages
805
Location
Cincinnati OH
I tried gel the other day and it was horrible...went right back to my hard cake of cheap soap from CVS and the cheap boar brush. I too shave before the shower, I splash hot water on my face while I'm filling the sink and making lather, then apply it and shave. I splash aftershave on afterward and that's the end of it.
 

fiddletown

New in Town
Messages
48
Location
California - S. F. Bay Area
Lately I've been using Taylor of Old Bond Street shaving soap. It seems to provide an excellent, lubricating lather. With a good grade badger hair brush I work up a thick, rich, creamy lather without too much water and lay it on my face over some wetter lather that I had previously worked in with the brush.

I start by soaking the brush under hot water, shaking off the excess, beginning to work up the lather in my mug, work in this early, wetter lather and then work up the thick creamy lather I'll lay on top. The I'll let it sit for several minutes before shaving.

And as others have said, a good blade helps as well as a light touch. I use a Merkur double edge safety razor with Feather blades.
 

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