Sewing Lessons & FAQ

[MarieAnne]

Are you referring to a little piece in the top of a sleeve, almost like a little ruffle? If so I would imagine you gather it with your sleeve and include it in the seam when you put it in the armhole. I have seen dresses with puffed sleeves that have this in the top to keep the "puffs".

What I get from the instructions, is that its' a little rectangle of stiff fabric that attaches on the inside and reinforces/stiffens the shoulder seam. I'll take a picture of the instruction sheet so you guys can see. It's pretty weird; I've never seen anything like it.

 

[MarieAnne]

Here is a picture of the instructions.

Here is a closeup of this so called stiffening.

And this is the blouse.

 

[Rachael]

this looks like a sleeve head. one way to do this would be to sew the strip into the shoulder seam. from the diagram, I would recommend hand stitching it to the seam allowance of the armscye and the shoulder seam so that it is invisible on the outside yet stitched in securely. I assume a blind tack is similar to a tailor's tack, so they mean for you use a few single stitches instead of a running basting stitch. This allows a little movement so that the sleeve head doesn't pucker your fabric as you move.

 

[MarieAnne]

Thanks Rachel!

 

[Mary]

I also want to say, Thanks Rachael!

It makes sense to me. Will need to try it out.

just use a narrow width zigzag and it will give stretch. if you do a small sample stitch then pull on the fabric, you will see how the zigzag gives with the fabric and looks like it was a straight stitch. The wider the zigzag, the more give. You can also play with the length until you get the stitch you want. I keep a log of settings (stitch, width, length, tension) by my machine so I don't have to repeat my experiments.

 

[Joie DeVive]

I could be wrong on this, but I would guess our modern day equivalent would be interfacing... Probably the non-fusible kind....?

 

[MarieAnne]

Ooo...Joie deVive, you know I just remembered I have some non-fusible interfacing kicking around. I bought it because the store had run out of the fusible stuff, but it just wasn't right for the job, (darts were invovled). What a great idea! It will be perfect for this sleeve-head.

 

[ShoreRoadLady]

That, or organza (preferably silk, but can use synthetic). You want a nice crisp interfacing - taffeta is crisp, but has little bulk. Some sew-in interfacings are stiff and bulky, or too limp.

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

Nope! Different weaves behave very differently. The toughest-to-sew (and tough to cut) silks are charmeuse, chiffon, georgette, and (to some degree) china silk/habotai. Basically, anything slippery, sheer, and shiny is going to be hard for a beginner. Silk, by its nature, is a little more fluid than other fibers no matter what the weave, but that doesn't mean it's impossible for a dedicated beginner. For instance, silk dupioni takes a lot of care and isn't something I'd suggest to a brand-new beginner, because it frays so easily and often needs to be underlined, but it's easy to cut and won't slide around when sewing. I think some silk suitings would be easier to sew, too.

What exactly do you need to be aware of when sewing with silk? I've heard that some kinds of silk can ladder like nylon if the needle isn't sharp enough. And what's that trick with sewing through a layer of paper under the fabric about? Could I sew up a pair of french knickers in, say, crepe de chine or silk satin with a regular zig zag stitch? The mere thought of cutting out the pieces on the bias makes my brain melt! Do you have any tips for cutting?

I have some beautiful 1930s silk crepe georgette (I think? It has a dull texture on both sides) and I'm afraid of ruining it. Wouldn't it be best to take it to a seamstress and have her make me a dress out of it, since I haven't worked with silk before?

 

[Lady Day]

It depends on the type of weave it is, I would say.

If youre making knickers, I assume you are doing them in a silk satin?

When I sew a silk like that, I use a silk needle and a super thin thread (generally a polly blend). I also serge it, but if its something that delicate, you could whip stitch the edges for stabilization.

Ive never used paper as a stabilizer when sewing, but I bet it works great! Couldnt you starch the fabric too? I suppose that might gunk up your needle [huh]

As far as the zig zag, there is no reason it wouldnt work. Just practice on the fabric for your desired effect.

LD

 

[Rachael]

I use paper under the fabric to keep it from sinking under the needle. This may happen with very lightweight fabrics without a lot of body (like satin or chiffon) It's not something I find the need for often, but I keep tissue nearby just in case. Remember that just like cutting paper with scissors, this will dull your needle faster than fabric alone. Also check new needles for burrs by running it between your fingers. Every once in a while one gets past quality control and nothing is more frustrating than a brand new needle snagging your fabric.

 

[Lady Day]

sewing tip

Also when working with silk satin, I discovered, if you are pinning pieces together, twist the pin as you are poking the fabric. It will slide in so much easier

LD

 

[Snookie]

The mere thought of cutting out the pieces on the bias makes my brain melt! Do you have any tips for cutting?

I like to trace off the pattern onto the fabric before cutting, that way you don't have to worry about the fabric shifting under the pattern piece when you cut. Or, using a rotary cutter disturbs the pattern less than scissors, but that involves buying more equipment and they can be tricky to use.

 

[MarieAnne]

Does anyone have any advice how to sew tulle? I am making a petticoat and I'm not sure what's the best, tidiest way to sew tull for a petticoat. If anyone has a petticoat I'd love to see close up pictures of the seams (where the gathered layers meet the hem of the previous gathered layer.)

 

[Sunny]

Does anyone have any advice how to sew tulle? I am making a petticoat and I'm not sure what's the best, tidiest way to sew tull for a petticoat. If anyone has a petticoat I'd love to see close up pictures of the seams (where the gathered layers meet the hem of the previous gathered layer.)

I don't think there IS a tidy way to sew tulle. You just bull in and do it. (Yeah, I know, I'm a lot of help.) I made a petticoat, but it was out of organza so I serged the seams after I sewed them. You shouldn't need to do that on tulle. I would layer them together wrong-side-lower-tier to right-side-upper-tier; you don't need to finish the seams, and it'll feel better inside. Tulle can be scratchy.

If it's possible to use, I think a ruffler foot would be a life saver. My mother used one for making miles (more or less) of gathered trim on curtains, and she loved it.

 

[Rachael]

If you absolutely feel the need to finish the seam, you can sew satin ribbon over the raw edge.

 

[ShrinkingViolet]

Thanks for the tips on working with silk. I think I'm going to practise on the most slippery viscose/rayon (same thing, right?) I can find, and if it goes well then move on to silk.

 

[MarieAnne]

I was just wondering what everyone uses to make copies of their patterns. I use trace-a-pattern which I like because it's sheer and durable but it's getting expensive since I copy all of my patterns. What else is there?

 

[Rachael]

I was just wondering what everyone uses to make copies of their patterns. I use trace-a-pattern which I like because it's sheer and durable but it's getting expensive since I copy all of my patterns. What else is there?

I have used all sorts of things (including grocery bags), but the cheapest and most durable is non-woven pellon interfacing. It's transparent, less than $1/yd, and readily available. A few caveats, though:

avoid the really cheap stuff because it tends to fall apart at the slightest pull

use a ball-point pen or other smooth writing implement so you don't tear while you're tracing

you may have to piece it for larger patterns like circle skirts since it is normally 24" wide. I typically use pins while I'm tracing then go back with a running pad stitch to secure the two halves.

 

[LelaViavonie]

Rachael
Thanks for the tip, I am also in need of tracing my patterns.. the older ones that I dont want to ruin..