Seam down the middle in the back - poll!

[ton312]

Ton, in your quiz you've possibly forgot to add the button/paragraph "It depends on the pattern".
So, for instance - never for CRs like J100 pattern, never for cross-zippers, A-2s and A-1s etc., but sometimes O'k for carcoats.
Though, am not a big fan of that middle seam feature. To my taste jackets like HBs usually look better when they have a middle pleat instead just a middle seam.

I whole heartedly disagree with at least one of your assertions. I think on a cross zip it can absolutely work.

That said the other two jackets you mention are of no interest to me in any way.

 

[navetsea]

Lol no you don't. Nobody voted 'love it' so since you own one I guess you voted 'don't care either' way?

These are examples of jackets that look too long and too snug to me:
View attachment 266454
View attachment 266455

Edit : goes without saying, the Caboose is an awesome jacket. I just don't like the proportions of this one.

center seam or not that first jacket is way too long and baggy on the waist, the zipper box tab is down at his crotch I bet it would look funny wearing it un snapped

 

[navetsea]

I whole heartedly disagree with at least one of your assertions. I think on a cross zip it can absolutely work.
View attachment 266522
That said the other two jackets you mention are of no interest to me in any way.

maybe it makes for a stronger construction done it like so, but if only for looks I like blind seam or at least french seam on a center back seam to make it more "seamless"

 

[ton312]

maybe it makes for a stronger construction done it like so, but if only for looks I like blind seam or at least french seam on a center back seam to make it more "seamless"

Yeah I don’t know that it would be stronger...I would think the opposite actually. I guess it just depends but for me the center seam can look really cool. It’s not something I would necessarily “spec” but I do feel it has enhanced the look of some of the backs on jackets I’ve owned.

 

[Jin431]

It doesn't look so bad on some designs

 

[navetsea]

View attachment 266582

It doesn't look so bad on some designs

I like that, I can see it tapers on the lower the spine too

 

[Jin431]

maybe it makes for a stronger construction done it like so, but if only for looks I like blind seam or at least french seam on a center back seam to make it more "seamless"

I always read the French seam on here, what's the difference and why is it so desirable?

 

[navetsea]

I always read the French seam on here, what's the difference and why is it so desirable?

usually it means it is stitched, tucked in and stitched again from behind so the edge of the fabric is hidden, and you can wear it unlined without the edge of the fabric exposed inside
here it means that baseball/ trucker cap seam style, nothing special or hard to do, just flatter and the panel behave as if it is unbroken panel I think it looks better as vertical seams, I like simple blind seam better since I don't wear my jacket that hard and looks even cleaner, easier to repair even if its broken.

 

[Jin431]

Got it, I think I get what you mean lol that was great info thanks for that kind sir

 

[handymike]

It looks great on shoulder seams.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I always read the French seam on here, what's the difference and why is it so desirable?

It's not desirable to me - I dislike the look of French seams. Personal preference.

But in the end there are things you learn to like as you move on. I have always really disliked the look of cross zip jackets but the simplified Aero Bootlegger kind of appeals to me. I don't think I would even buy one, but I can just see a glimmer of interest.

I used to hate middle back seams . Still do in half-belts, but not so much elsewhere. ton's Bates jackets show off the look to its best advantage.

 

[Lebowski]

I whole heartedly disagree with at least one of your assertions. I think on a cross zip it can absolutely work.
View attachment 266522
That said the other two jackets you mention are of no interest to me in any way.

To each their own Ton, I like it not esp. much on coss-zippers, as much as on most jackets. In contrast cental pleat works and therefore always looks much better to me, cross-zippers and HBs incl. Just look at most beautiful originals from 30s. Interesting what prof. @handymike think about that)
That said, sometimes I might omit that seam which your quiz is about, esp if the whole jacket all-in-all looks interesting to me.

 

[Marc mndt]

To each their own Ton, I don't like it on coss-zippers, as much as on most jackets. In contrast cental pleat works and therefore always looks much better to me, cross-zippers and HBs incl. Just look at most beautiful originals from 30s. Interesting what prof. @handymike think about that.

The open center vent on my latest Field Leathers jacket definitely makes the jacket more comfortable to wear. It allows for more movement.

 

[Lebowski]

The open center vent on my latest Field Leathers jacket definitely makes the jacket more comfortable to wear. It allows for more movement.

Yep, that's what my point is about Marc.

 

[Bennarion]

In my opinion, a jacket without a central seam on the back looks more interesting and cooler.

 

[Dr H]

View attachment 266521

I always read the French seam on here, what's the difference and why is it so desirable?

The French seam is shown vertically below a conventional folded seam. It’s a more labour intensive process and typically features on more expensive jackets.

 

[Monitor]

Usually, as a design feature, the back center seam works and very well at that but in 90% of the cases, it's there just to cut costs.
Browsing Grailed puts a lot of design choices into perspective and as @ton312 said, the back seam definitely enhance the look of a leather jacket but IMO, it has to be a design that started off with it in mind.
But some companies are using it on the styles it's really got no place on, like the regular cross zip or the cafe racer. If both Brooks and Schott figured they'd do their jackets without it, no matter what, there's absolutely no justification for anyone else to suddenly start with it now.

 

[Dr H]

For me, the central seam works for some patterns and not for others (I wouldn’t avoid on principle).

I sold on this FW as it didn’t fit, but the arrangement works well on this one:

All of my current jackets have central seams:

 

[Guppy]

There should be a yes/no thread for pictures of jackets where the center seam works and where it ruins the look of the jacket.

 

[Guppy]

YES - Thedi MTC-12799

YES - Freewheelers Switchyard

YES - Aero Board Racer/Seven

YES - Vanson Model B