Restoration vs Renovation

[gtdean48]

Anybody used one of the familiar hatters to do a RESTORATION effort on a hat as opposed to a RENOVATION?
RENOVATION in this context is taking a vintage hat & returning it to serviceable condition but using modern replacement parts such as liner, sweatband, & ribbon (even if the ribbon is vintage off a spool.)
RESTORATION is using the existing parts or replacing with salvaged parts from other hats of the same model, maker & time period.

Here's why I'm asking. I have a vintage Stetson that is in great shape felt wise. The liner is okay but I have another liner like it that is pristine. Also, the sweatband needs restitching as threads have broken & has some copper oxidation residue at the reed end in the back. I emailed with Graham at Optimo & he said the liner was no problem but would have to assess the sweatband since the threads going usually indicates the band is too far gone. I REALLY want this sweatband to stay in the hat but don't trust my skills to restitch. [huh]

 

[rumblefish]

I don't have any advice, but may I ask a few questions because I may find myself in the same predicament.

What were Graham's concerns with the sweat band? Is it that he feels that it will tear? And how far gone is the stitching? Is the band just pulling away in some areas, is the seam coming apart in the back? And by your judgment, does the leather seem like it's ready to give up?

I sent a Stetson to Graham to have it's sweat band reattached. It's leather was in perfect condition though. He did a wonderful job- good as new!

Good luck, please update.

 

[gtdean48]

RFish, Graham just said with thread going, the sweatband may also be too far gone. This band looks & feels in VERY good order. The thread in one place just off center on my forehead has broken & come out of the stitch holes of the sweatband & the body. The back joint is in perfect order. Will do.

 

[warmentrout]

Anybody used one of the familiar hatters to do a RESTORATION effort on a hat as opposed to a RENOVATION?
RENOVATION in this context is taking a vintage hat & returning it to serviceable condition but using modern replacement parts such as liner, sweatband, & ribbon (even if the ribbon is vintage off a spool.)
RESTORATION is using the existing parts or replacing with salvaged parts from other hats of the same model, maker & time period.

Here's why I'm asking. I have a vintage Stetson that is in great shape felt wise. The liner is okay but I have another liner like it that is pristine. Also, the sweatband needs restitching as threads have broken & has some copper oxidation residue at the reed end in the back. I emailed with Graham at Optimo & he said the liner was no problem but would have to assess the sweatband since the threads going usually indicates the band is too far gone. I REALLY want this sweatband to stay in the hat but don't trust my skills to restitch. [huh]

If the stitches that are coming loose are the ones holding the sweatband to the hat, it shouldn't be too difficult to undo enough of them to put a knot in to keep them from unraveling more and then restitching the part that needs it. If the stitching that is coming loose is the stitching that holds the reed in the sweatband that would be a more difficult problem to fix without replacing the whole sweatband.

 

[dostacos]

not a hatter, however I have dealt with old leather in my day.

one of the problems with an old sweatband is the leather can become brittle and in attempting to sew through the same holes may tear the holes and it won't hold, also their may not be room to stitch between the existing holes.

remember leather will wear down and become thinner with use

 

[gtdean48]

...remember leather will wear down and become thinner with use

Right & well acquainted with leather tendacy, have worked some older saddles in my time but these sweatbands are too delicate for me to mess with. The existing sweatband looks & feels very supple. I think I'll take this one to a pro. Thanks for the replies...

 

[Visigoth]

How about brittle ribbons?

While we're talking about materials degenerating, I have an odd problem: the ribbon -- and particularly the bow -- on one of my vintage hats has become sort of dry and brittle. This is the first time I've seen this, and I have hats dating from the twenties. Anything I can soak it with to soften it up?