Regular CXL HH Vs CXL FQHH

[Marc mndt]

It's the latter that switched from being overly team Aero to overly team anti-Aero.

Maybe I've missed something, but I can't name anyone who went from being 'overly' enthousiastic about Aero to being anti.

 

[Monitor]

I think there's a distinction to be made between the ubiquitous 'check out my outfit' posts and the posts by the subsection that has or seems to have expertise. It's the latter that switched from being overly team Aero to overly team anti-Aero.

I used to be a team Aero but I'll never be team anti-Aero. Best I've EVER looked was in my Aero cafe racer, hands down. I had people telling me holy sh*t, that's a sweet jacket. I don't have it anymore because I don't enjoy wearing cafe racers tho nothing but my own dumbassery is to be blamed for that.

The issue is however that I cannot help but realize that outta 30+ cafe racers that I have had, the Aero was the least comfortable and it was still the most comfortable Aero leather jacket that I have owned.

At the end of the day, I could either be quiet about this and not mention it - Something I've actually been guilty of until recently - Or, I could simply state is as a truth. My truth. I don't think that makes me an anti-Aero but it does make me reluctant to buy another Aero because for the same amount of money, I can get a jacket in which I personally will feel a lot more comfortable. Same as it makes me extremely reluctant to recommend it to anyone who plans on riding in it.

I love Aero, otherwise; Man, when they nail the fit, only a couple other makers can compete. Their leather is fine (though I'm sorta not really crazy about CXL anymore but again, personal preference, I've nothing against it). Jerky Horsehide is the nicest hide on the market IMO.

 

[Harris HTM]

Maybe I've missed something, but I can't name anyone who went from being 'overly' enthousiastic about Aero to being anti.

it has nothing to do with pro- or anti-Aero (or any other brand). It has to do with members having really strong opinions. The problem with strong opinions is that if change them then you can really easily ending up pissing where you once kissed and vice versa, and that really makes an impression.
Edit: instead of "strong" opinions I think the term "absolute" opinions is better suited, sorry, a 14 hour work day is over and English is not my native language (it's actually my third).

 

[Carlos840]

Not quite sure about that:

From their website:

“That said by 1930 Front Quarter Horsehide was fast becoming the leather of choice in USA for such jacket so our new 1930s Highwayman will also be available in our legendary Chromexcel Heavy Front Quarter Horsehide, a leather exclusive to Aero and not available from any other jacket manufacturer.”

https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=2428

Both of these are CXL FQHH, both where made by Vanson...
How is CXL FQHH exclusive to Aero?

 

[Marc mndt]

it has nothing to do with pro- or anti-Aero (or any other brand). It has to do with members having really strong opinions. The problem with strong opinions is that if change them then you can really easily ending up pissing where you once kissed and vice versa, and that really makes an impression.
Edit: instead of "strong" opinions I think the term "absolute" opinions is better suited, sorry, a 14 hour work day is over and English is not my native language (it's actually my third).

I think that it should be ok to criticize any maker here on the forum, just like we praise them. Otherwise this would become a boring place very quickly. As long as the critiques are well substantiated and not aimed at harming a maker.

 

[Monitor]

Both of these are CXL FQHH, both where made by Vanson...
How is CXL FQHH exclusive to Aero?

'far as I had always understood it, that is a sort of marketing dance they're doing there. The specific CXL Aero is working in is indeed unique to them but how exactly specific and unique is it, well, that's another story.

I'm pretty sure Vanson has occasionally been using Horween CXL Steer in the past, without ever making a point about it 'cause back then, people just didn't really care. Horween is producing a lot of similarly tanned leather, the kind that's soaked with oils and waxes and I don't think I could tell many of them apart, even though they may be sold as different product.

 

[jonesy86]

I still have a couple of Aero jackets in storage that are fun jackets. My Aero Vicenza Half Belt Deluxe was kind of like my gateway drug into leather jackets. I picked it up off of Thurston Bros. stock page, and Carry, I think pegged the fit perfectly.

I also still have an Aero steer hide shearling lined Hercules that I picked up of TFL classifieds that as I remember weighs around 12 LBS. That is when I thought I was going to head up into The Sangre De Cristo Mountains, instead of out to one of The Sandwich Islands. I don't think I will have this one shipped out here.

 

[Mich486]

I think for many here Aero has been the gateway to high end leather jackets. I joined the forum to show off my first Aero I think.

I’ve had 5 Aeros (3 custom ordered) sold them all off. CXL is cool and unique but not my thing. Had one in Vicenza and one in jerky, both good leathers, but certainly not unique. I agree with the sentiment that their patterns are not that great. Well not for my body type at least but I know I’m not alone.

I’m much happier with other brands these days but I can’t rule out that I will own another Aero in the future.

As to the general forum sentiment I think this has probably changed for several reasons. New members with different tastes but perhaps the market is also probably bigger these days than it was 7/8 years ago with lots of competition and hence why many have moved on to other brands. Aero just keep doing their thing. It’s ok although sometimes it feels a bit stale compared to other companies. Is it just a case of not so great marketing? Maybe…

I don’t think however anybody is holding a grudge against them. Why would they?

 

[El Marro]

When I joined the forum in 2016 it was much more “Aerocentric” then it is today. There are a number of reasons for that and some of them have been offered already. One that I would add is that five years ago heavy leather was very much the In thing and Aero’s heavy CXL steer and horsehide were highly prized as among the best of heavy leathers.
In those days there were countless threads about the best way to soften or break in a new CXL jacket, as a I recall one member even offered (only half jokingly) a jacket break-in service for those without the time to do it themselves.
I came in to the forum during this period and I too wanted to be one of the heavy hitters. Within my first year here I bought three Aero CXL jackets, out of which only the FQHH Cordovan Bootlegger still sees occasional wear.
I think as time went on and other makers, such as Thedi, rose in popularity people began to move away from the heavier hides and look for different things in their jackets.
Although I do not covet them the way I once did, I still think Aero makes a great leather jacket and it is only a matter of time before another one ends up in my collection.

 

[Marc mndt]

This is one of your best fitting jackets. Look how clean the shoulder / chest panels are. Aero nailed it with this one.

You should ship it, I think it would look great on waikiki beach.

 

[jonesy86]

This is one of your best fitting jackets. Look how clean the shoulder / chest panels are. Aero nailed it with this one.

You should ship it, I think it would look great on waikiki beach.

Yeah, the thick shearling lining will definitely keep me from getting sunburned, SPF 1000.

 

[photo2u]

Both of these are CXL FQHH, both where made by Vanson...
How is CXL FQHH exclusive to Aero?

You are the king of the LW. Now, you're the king of the Vansons also. Nice. I was not able to see them on your jacket rack.

 

[photo2u]

I still have a couple of Aero jackets in storage that are fun jackets. My Aero Vicenza Half Belt Deluxe was kind of like my gateway drug into leather jackets. I picked it up off of Thurston Bros. stock page, and Carry, I think pegged the fit perfectly.
View attachment 375747

I also still have an Aero steer hide shearling lined Hercules that I picked up of TFL classifieds that as I remember weighs around 12 LBS. That is when I thought I was going to head up into The Sangre De Cristo Mountains, instead of out to one of The Sandwich Islands. I don't think I will have this one shipped out here.
View attachment 375758

Perfect fit.

 

[Imuricecreamman]

Both of these are CXL FQHH, both where made by Vanson...
How is CXL FQHH exclusive to Aero?

Never seen that brown Vanson before. Is this a stock model with custom leather? Pretty much my perfect minimalist D-pocket.

 

[Carlos840]

Never seen that brown Vanson before. Is this a stock model with custom leather? Pretty much my perfect minimalist D-pocket.

It's actually black not brown, it's just that the top coat is very thin and almost see through.
It's weird becuuse both of these jackets where made from hides coming from the same batch of Horween CXL HH.
It's IMO a good demonstration of the natural variation you can get from the same leather.
THe jacket itself is a "gold standard Commando" made by left field.
The one on the right is a custom one i had made inspired by the commando, i reviewd it in this thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-padded-cxl-commando.102953/#post-2760488

 

[Imuricecreamman]

It's actually black not brown, it's just that the top coat is very thin and almost see through.
It's weird becuuse both of these jackets where made from hides coming from the same batch of Horween CXL HH.
It's IMO a good demonstration of the natural variation you can get from the same leather.
THe jacket itself is a "gold standard Commando" made by left field.
The one on the right is a custom one i had made inspired by the commando, i reviewd it in this thread:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/vanson-padded-cxl-commando.102953/#post-2760488

Found some good pics online of the "Gold Standard" Amazing jacket!

 

[jonbuilder]

With regards to Aero's leathers the term "Front Quarter" has become assosiated mainly with our Chromexcel, with people refering to Chromxcel Horse simply as Front Quarter. Even here at the factory many of the team refer to it as Front Quarter. All Horseide used for our jackets is actually Front Quarter ( Vicenza , Jerky , Battered etc...) , Front Quarter is the only part suitable for Jackets. The Shell is too dense, and also far too expensive, the butts too thick and the belly too soft and stretchy.

When we approached Horween 30 plus years ago they had stacks and stacks of Front quarters that they almost refered to as remenants after removing the expensive "cordovan shells" these shells were / are used in some of the most expensive shoes, wallets, and other leather accesories. Nobody at the time was interersted in making jackets from these "left over" Front quarters, even Horween at the time thought is strange we wanted to make jackets from it.
Nobody is suggesting that Aero created the term "Front Quarter" or that we were the first to use in on a jacket label, look back at any vintage horsehide jacket from the 30's, 40's or 50's and most of then carried "Front Quarter" on ther labels. When we started using it no one at the time was using it, so the term became assosiated with us and Chromexcel horse. Simlar in the way that the term Cordovan has became assosiated with a colour. Our Cordovan Chromexcel colour is actually called Colour #8 by Horween , but used the term Cordovan instead and it stuck.

We are also not claiming to have "invented" Teacore @Marc mndt @Carlos840 , of course not. Again most vintage jackets were chrome tanned with a pigmnet topcoat on a natural colour crust, over time the topcoat colour wears through exposing the lighter colour crust, just as your picture @Marc mndt . Chromexcel already has this property due to it's tanning process, a natural colour crust with dye applied to surface ( not drum dyed) .
With our Jerky we went a step further by having the crusts dyed first in a lovely russet colour before the black (or seal) topcoat is applied , this gives a wamer brown tone to develop than what you see on some vintage jackets where the crust is quite light. More recently we have done the same with our Blackend Brown Vicenza where we have it firstly dyed seal and then topcoated in brown.
Refreshing to hear from someone with the knowledge to support their claims.
We don't refer to any of the above as "teacore" , that term has found it's way through from Japan.

So to clarify we haven't "invented" any of the above but due to Aero being one of the first companies reintroduce a long forgoten leather, and start recreating vintage jackets from the 40's and 50's certain terms have become assoisiated with us.

 

[jonbuilder]

Stuart told me their tanned hides are "sides" as pictured here:

If you ask for extra heavy they will use the butt for certain pieces like the back or the upper yoke.
Not every jacket gets butt, but not every jacket is 100% front quarter.

Looking at the diagram the shells look like butt to me and I always assumed shells and butt similar. Is the butt different than the shells?
What is the strip used for Belts?
I read frather down and see the explanation of butt strips

 

[jonbuilder]

You're correct about that but to be honest, I hardly believe extra fiber density ever applies to any real life situation where it would make a difference. I guess additional stiffness would come in handy when it comes to boots but even that is achieved primarily through chemistry, rather than the actual animal part.

As for Aero, I agree; I'm not reading it in a way that they claim to have invented the tea-core leather at all. They simply stated they've began using the leather exhibiting this particular characterization very early on which is to some extent true. While several other primarily designer companies working in a similar leather that could be termed tea-cure existed during the initial early 90's revival of classic Americana, Aero indeed was among the first to produce jackets outta this kinda hide on a, well, mass scale (as in not just a few pieces in each size).

RMC, Shinki, etc. happened two decades later.

There's some antagonism rising toward Aero as of late and while I agree their patterns do leave a lot to be desired when it comes to comfort, the fact remains that they just may be responsible for the fact that this scene at all exists.
One man's vision & dedication to stick to constructing a high-quality, sturdy, tough leather garments in a world of mass produced, imported junk, is infinitely commendable, especially since they too could've taken the easy way and just go the way of anyone else. Sticking with that vision is what I am 100% convinced, inspired many other makers to follow this path.

For instance, I'd bet all my money on the fact that Aero is literally the only reason why Schott, that was rollin' fast down the trash highway toward the junktown, made a 180 turn and started producing pieces that at this point have every right to be considered high-end.

I agree with your observation well spoken