Questions to assess a bespoke tailor

[wellsuited]

I am going to go tailor shopping in Montreal and have found a few tailors that offer custom/bespoke services.

I have been disappointed by tailors many times in the past, though especially by too large armholes and too roomy fits in general.

I would like to know your thoughts on what questions I can ask a tailor to assess his expertise.

Thanks,

 

[avedwards]

Try looking at their previous work if they have any to show. That won't show you the fit (unless you can see it on the person it was made for) but it will reveal a lot about the quality of the construction and the material, which are two thirds of what makes a good suit.

The only way of assessing whether a tailor will cut their suits with high armholes is to start a conversation about how suits should fit. If the tailor mentions high armholes you'll know that they know something about a good fit; if however they give you a blank look when you mention high armholes then you'll know it's time to exit their shop and find a better tailor. As for too roomy fits, it's probably best to just request a tighter fit. Loose fitting suits seem to be the norm in North America, so unless a tight fit is specified a tailor may just cut a suit the same way as they cut it for other customers.

 

[wellsuited]

Thanks av,

I like the approach of asking the tailor how he assesses a good fit.

In your opinion, what are the hallmarks of a well fitted suit aside from armholes. I am partial to moderate waist suppression--an upside down V silhouette with a slight flaring out at the waist.

 

[Gilboa]

I would very much hope that a good Tailor will be assisting you in making the right decissions regarding shape/style/colour of the suit that will suit you, together with you.

Also, I would expect having to attend pre-fitting sessions. I always aks for that, particularily if a customer has very unique curves. It also allows both to futher discuss the particulars before the finished product. Afterall, a suit is for life - not just for christmas

It depens of course how much you are willing to spend ...

 

[Tomasso]

I would inquire about the process (is there a paper pattern made from clients measurements), price (payment schedule),fabric books available, time frame for completion, number of fittings, quality of construction (canvas v. fused, hand v. machine stitching, fabric pre-washed/shrunk), is the work done in-house or sent out, photos of customers wearing their suits (or maybe even real live clients in the shop), after purchase services (cleaning, pressing, alterations). Then it's a mater of stylistic choices and how competent and comfortable the tailor is at implementing them. For example, I wouldn't ask a tailor who specializes in a heavily constructed suit with a roped shoulder to make a soft natural shoulder suit. Good luck.

 

[avedwards]

In your opinion, what are the hallmarks of a well fitted suit aside from armholes. I am partial to moderate waist suppression--an upside down V silhouette with a slight flaring out at the waist.

In terms of the jacket it's a matter of personal choice. I have some jackets with a lot of waist suppression, whilst one suit I have (from the American "Bold Look" era) has no waist suppression at all giving it a very relaxed and casual look. The important thing is that the sleeves length and distance between the shoulder seams is perfect; waist and skirt are optional variables. Padded/roped shoulders can be used to emphasise any waist suppression.

The trousers should cover your socks with minimal or no break to them, and a higher waistline is more flattering to most people. The width of the trousers is optional, although my preference is for quite wide-legged trousers with a fitted jacket.

 

[Edward]

Worth too having a good look at examples of what they have done before. Not only from POV of assessing quality, but also cut and style. Most tailors, even on the Row, have a house style to some greater or lesser degree. I've gathered before now some are not keen to deviate from theirs. This can be especially the case if you are looking at a 'made to measure' option rather than true bespoke, in which case you'd want to know what their standard patterns are like, do they have enough trousers rise / leg width, etc. If you are particularly keen on vintage details, I find that is the difficult bit to find - someone who will make authentically wide / high enough trews for the suit.

 

[avedwards]

Worth too having a good look at examples of what they have done before. Not only from POV of assessing quality, but also cut and style. Most tailors, even on the Row, have a house style to some greater or lesser degree. I've gathered before now some are not keen to deviate from theirs. This can be especially the case if you are looking at a 'made to measure' option rather than true bespoke, in which case you'd want to know what their standard patterns are like, do they have enough trousers rise / leg width, etc. If you are particularly keen on vintage details, I find that is the difficult bit to find - someone who will make authentically wide / high enough trews for the suit.

I didn't find this to be a problem with a recent MTM. There were some minor problems with the jacket, but the trousers were perfect. I specifically asked for trousers with double forward pleats, a 12" rise and a width of 20" at the knee and 19" at the hem; and I received exactly that.

However, unless the tailor's house style is along the lines of what you're after it will be necessary to specify every single detail, including lapel width, lapel gorge height, distance between buttons, amount/shape of shoulder padding...

 

[Guttersnipe]

I definitely second what Edward and avedwards' point about finding a tailor that has a house style similar to your sartorial aesthetic, otherwise even if they can make things your way, they might not be particualrly thrilled to go outside their comfort zone and you'll probably have to micro manage the process.

From example, if you want a super-slim fit, 60's mod inspired MTM suit, ordering from Deckard Apparel rather than Thick as Thieves wouldn't make sense and vice versa if you want a MTM 1930s inspired belt-back suit.

 

[seattlestuff]

You might check out L'Atelier Tailleur Mark on Crescent. I was having him do my alterations while I lived in Montreal and was quite pleased. Granted, there's much more to good bespoke work than there is to simple adjustments. Still, he seemed to do great work. I even threw some tricker things at him and was consistently pleased (happier with him than anyone I ever found while living in NYC). I know he does bespoke work because he was always wanting to make a suit for me which (predictably) he said would be of much higher quality fabric than the stuff I was having him alter.

Like others have said, if you have a certain look you want then by all means, other than making sure the quality is worth what you pay, that should probably guide you. I was just aiming for a close, clean, modern fit with the suit he worked over for me and he delivered beautifully. I lean toward the trim 'n' slim side of things and I think I pushed him to go a little beyond what he originally expected, but he caught on quickly and stuff came out great the first time around. I suspect if you bring along a picture of the silhouette you're hoping for, that will help. I'd definitely at least go talk with this guy (hopefully the proprietor will be in and not one of his workers--he always was when I was there).