Questions about oilcloth/oilskin duster

[Yohanes]

Being unfamiliar with this kind of coat, I need your info guys.

1. Does an oilskin coat / duster requires frequent reproofing? How long will it take for the coat to loose its water-proof capability, say, when required to wear on bad weather almost every day?

2. As there are many brands of oilskin duster, such as Driza-bone, Kakadu, Australian Outback Collection, Filson, etc., do these coats require reproofing cream of the same brand, or any brand will do for any brand of oilskin coat? I also see many brands of reproofing cream...

3. Can you replace reproofing cream by spraying 3M Scotchgard or other similar fabric protectant (to make it waterproof)?

4. For a trench coat to wear, say, in heavy rain condition, which one is more reliable, oilskin coat or leather coat?

Thanks

 

[rumblefish]

Being unfamiliar with this kind of coat, I need your info guys.
1. Does an oilskin coat / duster requires frequent reproofing? How long will it take for the coat to loose its water-proof capability, say, when required to wear on bad weather almost every day?

2. As there are many brands of oilskin duster, such as Driza-bone, Kakadu, Australian Outback Collection, Filson, etc., do these coats require reproofing cream of the same brand, or any brand will do for any brand of oilskin coat? I also see many brands of reproofing cream...

3. Can you replace reproofing cream by spraying 3M Scotchgard or other similar fabric protectant (to make it waterproof)?

4. For a trench coat to wear, say, in heavy rain condition, which one is more reliable, oilskin coat or leather coat?

Thanks

Yohanes, my experience with oil cloth;

1. Not frequently, but if you're cleaning it you'll need to reproof sooner than if you don't. Brushing off dirt is the best method, but dispite what some say, spot cleaning stains works well. Just be sure and reproof the spot when dry.

2. I use Browning brand reproofing for everything oil cloth I own; Flison, Barbour, Burke & Wills, Australian Outback. They all get the same, and it seems to work fine.

3. I wouldn't, that sounds like trouble. You will definitely wind up with something different than what you started with.

4. I use my Filson shelter and tin oil clothing for hunting and fishing. They have seen all-day downpours, snow, freezing rain, and me sitting on the wet ground, without much water getting through. They don't completley repel water but I stay plenty dry. My Filson hats need the most maintenance because of all the handling, and all of my pants get a touch up at the bottoms at the end of each season. The Austrailian Outback coat I have needed repairs, but it still remains weatherproof even around the repairs. My Barbour stuff never had any reproofing because they see the least abuse.

My leather jackets and coats have leaked at the seams and do absorb water.

To reproof: Heat the oil/reproofing cream till liquid (put opened can in a hot water bath), and preheat cloth with a hair dryer. Spread on oil with a paint brush, heat cloth again with hair dryer then wipe away excess.

I hope this helps you,
Chris M.

 

[Harley Quinn]

My Drizabone Duster

Seems to need reproof once every 4 to 6 years... but even then only in the wear spots.

 

[LeeB]

Even though the recommended time frame for reproofing is 4 -6 years. My oilcloth coat sees year round use. At the very least, the high wear areas (elbows, shoulders) get a re-coating every spring. I have used my oilcloth coat thru rain and snow and have never had a problem.

One word of caution, or really, one to remember, if you wash the coat, it will have to be completely reproofed and that is a bear of a job.

I would not recommmend replaceing the oil-wax coating for a Scothguard or similar spray on waterproofing. My most prevelent reason is that those coatings are flammable. Since I wear mine for outdoor activities and it has spent much time around a campfire, that is a big consideration.

 

[Mike K.]

My most prevelent reason is that those coatings are flammable. Since I wear mine for outdoor activities and it has spent much time around a campfire, that is a big consideration.

Ummm, canvas and wax/oil are not flammable themselves? Most of the spray-on waterproofers are silicone based. It isn't the silicone that is flammable, it's the propellant that sprays them. Once dry they're fine and they do NOT affect the color or anything else of oilskin, leather, canvas, nylon, etc. Besides the various reproofing compounds for oilskin, you might want to check the website for Nikwax as they offer some wash-in and spray-on reproofers specifically for cotton.

 

[LeeB]

Not to put too fine a point on it, but wax does not burn, it melts, albeit rather slowly. Canvas will burn but does not take a spark weel due to the heavy nature of the fabric. Now, although the spray on weather proofers are silicone cased and the propellent itself is the most flammable, other chemicals in the compound remain flammable after drying. If an ember from a campfire were to land on a fabric sprayed with such a compund, it is much more likely to burn into the fabric. The oil/wax treatment is something of a shield on the canvas and will allow more time for said ember to die or be brushed away. All in all it's a minor thing but something worth considering.

Nikwax wash and spray on are very good for synthetic fabrics but I have found thier applications for natural fabrics (canvas) to be less than ideal.

 

[Yohanes]

Thank you very much gentlemen for the advice and sharing.


This is mainly because I've just won an oilcloth duster in ebay - but I'm not in US, so finding a reproofing cream would be an another effort for me. The coat hasn't arrived yet, but getting advance information from you would certainly be useful

So in applying the cream heat is needed - so hair dryer is a must? No other means?

 

[Harley Quinn]

TBH I've reproofed on a hot dry day here inthe UK(!) with no problem. In Indonesia, Id say any sunny day would do, as long as it wasn't too 'sweaty'. Just remeber not to let only one side get the sun...

I tend to use my conservatory for such chores.

Based on your geography, I'd try the .au shops for the proofing.

What make is the garment?

 

[Yohanes]

Based on the seller's info, it's Australian Outback Collection.. I think it's from Canada? Hmm, if sunlight can do the work then it must not be as difficult as I thought...

 

[Harley Quinn]

It's heat you need... a good 28 to 30 degree day and a bowl of hot water worked find the last couple of reproofs I've done...

 

[dr greg]

hot work

Isn't the climate going to kill you in one of those things in Indonesia? I know there's mountains and stuff where it's cooler, but what about the humidity?
They're pretty much designed for horsemen to wear in the rain in cool climates, even here I sweat in one in winter.
Contact Drizabone down here 617-3807-1555 they'll probably ship you their stuff, it comes in a tin.

 

[Yohanes]

Oh, I plan to use it for motor cycling - plenty of rain here, that's when I'm gonna need it most. Here, the most recommended raincoat style is the separate model between jacket and pants. It's indeed safe, but I hate it! And it's very troublesome to prepare, especially when you are suddenly caught in rain. Duster should be faster to prepare and definitely looks better

 

[Luddite]

Isn't the climate going to kill you in one of those things in Indonesia? I know there's mountains and stuff where it's cooler, but what about the humidity?
They're pretty much designed for horsemen to wear in the rain in cool climates, even here I sweat in one in winter.
Contact Drizabone down here 617-3807-1555 they'll probably ship you their stuff, it comes in a tin.

I understand that there are lightweight (unlined) and heavyweight versions of the Drizabone riding coat. The lightweight is fine for even the hottest British summer rain! I have used my old Drizabone lightweight for rain protection on a motorcycle, and I have to say it's OK for light showers, but anything more and the rain comes in at the front flap (which is only poppered for closure) and it leaves one's legs - and crotch - rather exposed to the elements. Despite the leg straps, it is a bit flappy, too. There are much better ways of keeping dry IMHO.

 

[Yohanes]

What about dusters made by western wear producer like Wahmaker, etc. are they waterproof?

 

[Rachael]

I am altering a black Drizabone duster for a customer (nothing major, just a hem lift) and am noticing what looks like mildew in a few places. When it was dropped off, it was wadded in a canvas bag and is also covered in pet hair of some kind. I have it hanging to air out right now, since I'm not too fond of handling it as is.

Question is: is there anything I can do about this, or should I just hem the thing and let the owner deal with it? I usually try to deliver all items in like-new condition but in this case I would hate to do too much work, given the suspicion that this is due to neglect which would of course continue.

Any thoughts?

 

[Edward]

Probably worth contacting the customer and informing them of what you've found.... if they choose to go ahead and neglect it, then that's on their own head. Keeps you right, though, rather than have then discover it later and either blame it on the work you did (however irrational - I've seen this sort of thing happen) or at least cause hassle for you by complaining about paying for work to be done on the coat and then this happening.

One thing i learned fast when I worked in retail: never, ever make a decision for the customer. Give them all the options, all the information, and then let them choose - then if it's the wrong choice, it can't come back on you as it was their choice.

 

[shortbow]

If this helps any, I owned a Barbour coat once, don't remember the name, when I lived in Victoria, B.C. where rain but moderate temps is the norm. It worked great for motorcycling, as well as any other outdoor stuff, but without the long bottom getting in the way of things. Anyway, after a while it needed re-proofing, had no commercial gunk handy, so I made my own out of olive oil and beeswax, and it worked perfectly. Hot sun being as rare as hen's teeth, I used a hair dryer, with excellent results.

 

[JLStorm]

I used an australian oilskin duster for years with the wool insert during the winter. It kept me warm and dry in the worst of weather. I treated it horribly and the only reason it isnt with me today is that I grew out of it. A good oilskin is very thick and heavy and really only needs to be refreshed with a good oilskin product once every season or two...however I never did anything to mine in over 4 years and it was the same as the day I bought it, just not as shiny.

Two things to beware of:
1) the stuff they put on the oilskin to waterproof it (duck wax I think it was called) bleeds on your clothing so give it a good 10 minute powerful hose down before the first ware because that oil does NOT come out of clothes.

2) many of the "australian" companies have their jackets now made in china and you can feel the difference. I think I had an outback coat and my dad had a drizabone. His drizabone was a little heavier weight than my outback, but they both functioned just as well, however I just checked this year and the outback coats are nothing like mine and now made in China.

A good oilskin should feel heavy, you should definitely feel it the first time you put it on and the weight should take a little getting used too. It should be a bit slick and shiny from over oiling when you first buy it When its cold it should be stiff as thin cardboard and if this is not the case dont buy it.

just my $0.02