Q1 2015 Jackets 3 of 5 - Alexanders Dakota (42") Black Goatskin

[Plumbline]

Bought this on the sale pages .. it's ex Stuarts of London and had black collar studs ( as per the A2) to keep a neat collar profile.

The Alexanders Black Goat is FAB and nicely grained but ( liek all goat) unbelievably durable. I hadn't realised the Dakota had a pronounced V front like the Arkansas but I realy like it. It is lined in the body in black moleskin with cotton drill in the sleeves and I had the sleeves shortened 1 1/2" from std.

With regards to fit .. while I appreciate the view on her (as always) I DONT NEED FIT ADVICE .. I know what I like and I know what fits me .... this fits me and I like it

Any way on the basis that a picture paints a thousand words .. I thought you guys would like to see it

 

[navetsea]

I like the V front hem, and the collar looks awesome
(I'm waiting for a black goat with a v front jacket in the making too, locally made though this thread made me want to visit them to peek on how far the progress )

 

[Seb Lucas]

I had an Al goat halfbelt for a couple of years but I sold it on. Well made jacket but I didn't care for the goat at all. It had a hard, unyielding finish and faded and cracked very quickly. I wore it a lot but it never really broke in despite looking worn. I would need convincing to ever try the goat again. Aero used this goat until recently but have moved on to a different supplier.

 

[navetsea]

several sheets of black goat hide I picked for my jacket look so faded and dull almost like uneven deep grey, while the back side is so black and soft, the guy said it gets dull just being kept in the storage. I wonder if this is a characteristic of goat in general, or just they way of its dyeing & finishing process used on that particular hide.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Goat is generally known for it's sheen and ever new appearance. Dull hides and fading must be about a particular tanning process, which you either like or dislike, I guess.

 

[Plumbline]

I have to say I haven't had any problem with this goat ( in 3 months) ... but if you expect it to age like a fine wine, you'll be dissapointed it's about as durable as diamond It does crease and soften a lot but doesn't show anywhere near the character or graining of veg tanned steer etc.

Same tannery .... both goat ( albeit one is seal and the other black) ... the only difference is 11 years or wear ( My Aero M422a )



The seal does show the brown undertones on the high points and when scuffs shows a lighter brown underside ( almost rust colour) ... the black shows .. eerr .... black I have to say it doesn't show any grey hues ... it's plain black ( the cuff shot is probably closest to the actual colour) It has got that glossy finish of goat which makes it really difficult to get a good picture of it.and it seems to brush off rain like nothing else.

Bullet proof though .... if the seal is anything to go by it looks as good as when I first got it

 

[navetsea]

agree, those kinda look new for 11 yrs of wear... oh well I hope mine would somewhat age.

 

[Plumbline]

The left one is the new 3 months old Dakota .... the right one is my 11 year old M422a ....

 

[Seb Lucas]

Yes, but my point was that the Al goat I had cracked and faded really quickly. The jacket looked 10 years old in three months. I've never seen any leather wear that quickly without actually breaking in or getting soft and comfortable with it.

I much prefer the G&B goat I've owned which wears like iron goes soft quickly and fades gradually.

 

[navetsea]

The left one is the new 3 months old Dakota .... the right one is my 11 year old M422a ....

I also can't see any significant wear not even on the protruding seam fold, if anything from the photo your 3mth black has more dimples and creases on that part, what part are they, back side of their right sleeve?
does goat hide naturally repel water, or just goat coming out from certain tannery has that quality?

I heard good things about goat, like its water repellency, tensile strength better than cow (of the same thickness? I got 0.9mm), aging well, etc. ... I thought when I hear "aging well" that must mean maturing into a beauty.... but now I kinda worry it would mean they would totally reject the sign of time, and look perfect forever...

 

[handymike]

^^^it really depends on the tannery....
I had a vintage goat jacket that still looked new after 60 years. But Rudie's Aero in goat looks worn in fantastically after a couple of years.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I heard good things about goat, like its water repellency, tensile strength better than cow (of the same thickness? I got 0.9mm), aging well, etc. ... I thought when I hear "aging well" that must mean maturing into a beauty.... but now I kinda worry it would mean they would totally reject the sign of time, and look perfect forever...

As I said, my Al goat was the fastest wearing jacket I've ever seen.

 

[Plumbline]

As I said, my Al goat was the fastest wearing jacket I've ever seen.

That sounds thoroughly crap Seb ... did you go back to them ??? I'm sure they would have been surprised and would have helped resolve .. goat just shouldn't age like that ( that's why the USN chose it after all )

 

[Seb Lucas]

That sounds thoroughly crap Seb ... did you go back to them ??? I'm sure they would have been surprised and would have helped resolve .. goat just shouldn't age like that ( that's why the USN chose it after all )

That was one path but I sold it. Very hard to negotiate these things from a distance of 16,000 kilometers. While the wear was unusual I don't think it was grounds for a refund and some may well appreciate a fast wearing goat. It was very well made and, unfortunately, a very good fit. Next jacket, if I buy another will be a lighter horse hide.

 

[Rudie]

Seems like you had a funny batch, Seb. If AL uses the same leather as Aero did then something funny was going on with your jacket. I really love how my jacket ages and it doesn't crack or fade at all.

 

[samo]

Plumbline,

did You go shorter (and if so how much?) with back length of Dakota than with some other AL jackets like i.e. Roadster?

 

[Plumbline]

Plumbline,

did You go shorter (and if so how much?) with back length of Dakota than with some other AL jackets like i.e. Roadster?

Std back length for a 42" at 24" ( same as my Roadster ) .... which is where I like it. The Std Aero 44" is 1" longer at 25"

 

[Seb Lucas]

Seems like you had a funny batch, Seb. If AL uses the same leather as Aero did then something funny was going on with your jacket. I really love how my jacket ages and it doesn't crack or fade at all.

I'm glad yours was okay. Sounds like the kind of goat I should have got.

 

[samo]

Thanks Plumbline, it seems little shorter but obviously because low pockets jeans.

@Seb Lucas

When I got the goat samples from AL i took the carpet knife and scratched them. I noticed that black and russet are notable more resistant as seal brown.