PORTIS PATH

[Salty O'Rourke]

OhBoyOhBoyOhBoy it arrived today:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...0&_trksid=m38&_nkw=230415951374&_fvi=1&_rdc=1

It appears to be in great shape but man is it FILTHY. It's crying out for a trip to the Naptha spa, but I need some advice first.

The sweatband isn't leather, it's cloth, and it appears to have had some kind of cushioned backing that has deteriorated into a fine black powder - or else the original owner operated a soot farm. The yellow plasticky/wax papery/crinkly stuff between the sweatband and the liner is intact and is supple, not brittle.

My question is, will a dunk in the Naptha bucket harm the sweatband or that yellow thingy?

Also, the liner is spot glued in place, not sewn - was that typical? I have to take it out and clean it too - it's not stained but that sooty stuff has found it's way between the liner and the brylcream shield.

Any pointers you can send my way will be greatly appreciated.

Well, I took the plunge and dunked the hat in camp fuel - took 3 separate treatments (after the first bath the white gas was almost black). I sponged on a weak Woolite solution last night and it's dry now - looks like the hat is as clean as I can get it. The exterior above the ribbon is no longer darker than the felt that's been protected by the ribbon all these years, and not much darker than the interior beneath the liner.

The problem is the ribbon itself - it's sort of two-toned, darker from the brim to about 1/3 to 1/2 way up. It's not uniform all the way around. Looks like I'll have to have it replaced - any ideas on where I can get that done? I'm interested in keeping the hat as original as possible (I hesitate to change anything old unless absolutely necessary - it's in the Virginia gene) - any ideas on where I could send it?

Here's some before-the-cleaning pics:

And here are a couple of post-cleaning shots - you can see that the ribbon is still discolored:

 

[Salty O'Rourke]

Optimo

I guess I submitted that before I got the pics attached

Thanks, Lefty - I figured from my own searches that Optimo would be a good option, do you know if they can supply vintage ribbon, or am I being too anal about vintage vs. modern?

 

[Lefty]

You'll be pleased with their huge selection of vintage ribbon. Unfortunately, without going there to see it, you'll have to do your best describing what you'd like.

 

[fedoralover]

Here's another one.

I found this one in a Goodwill store. After my "Senior" discount I paid $9.00 for it. It came with a cattlemans crease and was a little dirty, but I cleaned it up and rebashed the crown to my liking. The sweatband and liner are in excellent condition with no mothing or stains on the felt. As you can see, it evidently has some beaver fur in it, judging by the markings on the liner and sweatband. The felt is very soft and supple. It was very easy to reshape the crown. It's size tag was 7 1/4, which is what I wear but it was too big for me so I padded the back of the sweatband a little. On the back of the size tag, it had a price of $15.95. Not sure when that would date it as prices really varied depending on quality. Here's the pics.

fedoralover

 

[ScottF]

Matchbook covers

The following four matchbook covers show a price break progressioin among Portis hats that I thought might be interesting:

 

[Bill Greene]

Just took delivery of my first Portis, a beautiful (albeit filthy) dark brown stingy, with a dark brown ribbon with two tone bow. The original price tag is on the inside of the hat band and is $9.95, sold by a Hatter in Lasalle, Ill. There is one very tiny, perfectly symmetrical hole in the brim that looks more like someone put a pin through it than it does a moth bite...but I guess it's hard to tell. Looks hardly worn, just really dirty.

I'm going to try the naptha treatment on it, and when I'm done I'll be sure and post some photos.

 

[fedoralover]

I thought I would put in an observation about Portis quality since I just got the one posted just previously. A vintage clothing store here has had a Portis Open Road style fedora for sale for a while now. I've seen it numerous times but it's not my size. It has the Swansback finish like so many seemed to have judging by the pics in previous threads. I went back to compare mine to it Friday and was surprised at how much difference in the felt there was. I'm "assuming" that the Beaver Blend made for a tighter and smoother finish. I thought I'd let people know, in case you see one for sale that has Beaver Blend on the liner or sweatband that it is definitely a higher quality felt. At least in the comparison between these two. I might add that judging by the labels, I'm pretty sure that the one in the store was older than mine. If anyone else has one that has Beaver Blend labeled on it, how did yours feel?

fedoralover

 

[Bill Greene]

As threatened, here's a shot of my now clean Portis.

And one of the liner:

I really like this hat. And it was a breeze to do the naptha bath.

 

[frussell]

Snagged a Portis

Any of you Portis experts able to tell me what "Sterling Quality" means in terms of the felt material itself? I just got a $36 Portis that just has "Sterling Quality" in the description, don't have the hat in hand yet, was just wondering if I made a mistake. Looks to have a welted, semi-stingy brim and needs a cleaning. I didn't see any other markings on the sweat photos. The liner seems to have the same "Swans Down Finish" logo that Douglas' second hat on page 1 has. What's the beaver or other rodent content on these? Any ideas? Thanks, Frank

 

[buler]

Portis Beaver Blend

A Portis Beaver Blend in sand color. Very nice felt not unlike a Dobbs/Knox Twenty. Has the brim binding with more showing on underside versus topside.
Nice box ribbon and wind trolley.

B

 

[Mario]

That's my kind of hat - yummy! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap

 

[rlk]

Petite Portis

Unfortunately this early Portis is a size 6-3/4.
Child's starter hat perhaps?

 

[Lefty]

At the local antique mall. I'm not shelling out anywhere near the $95 they want for it.

 

[Salty O'Rourke]

Portis Toss-Up

I won this Portis Toss-Up crushable a while ago on OFAS and then promptly forgot to post any pics.

Long nap and spiral stitching on the brim. This color is a bit lighter than actual, although in bright sunlight the plum tones do come out as seen in this flash photo:

The cloth band is a bit stained on the "bow" side, but it's the flash that makes it jump out; to the naked eye it's not nearly as noticeable:

The printing on the cloth sweatband is faded; I had to wet it to bring it out:

Union label - the sweatband has a rubber-like backing. There's no liner; I'm not sure there ever was one:

I can't tell if it's wool or fur felt; it's easy to bash and holds its shape, I can roll it up and then pop it out and rebash it however I want and it stays. It wants to shrink after wetting, and I have to keep a hat-jack in it pretty much all the time - although I've noticed my Portis Tissue-Weight likes to snug up too, so maybe that's a Portis thing.

 

[Lefty]

That's fantastic. :eusa_clap
Please add it to this thread.

 

[buler]

1953 for the Toss-Up

I see news ads (all pay per view) in google news for the Toss-Up from Jan 1953 - Sept 1953.

B

 

[mayserwegener]

Portis "EZY - Flex" Boater

"EZY - Flex" Portis Boater with 2 3/4 inch brim.

 

[buler]

Portis Beaver Blend Homburg

Very nice felt on this Portis Beaver Blend homburg.

B

 

[MarkD]

What a beauty Buler. Nice score!

 

[handlebar bart]

Landed this Portis tissue-lite and assorted pieces