Please advise : Collar lapel snaps

[TartuWolf]

Hey folks!
Ordering a minimalist cross-zip in the upcoming days.
One piece back with bottom kidney panel.
Shoulder gussets.
No epaulets, no belt or belt loops.
hand warmer pockets + one zipped chest pocket.
Brown leather, brass hardware.

Got everything down on paper and ready to order.
The only thing I'm not sure about is collar lapel snaps.
Please comment on which option you would go for and why?
I do not ride a moto.
Also note that the collar shape will be most similar to the 2nd photo bellow.

My thoughts:
None - clean look, but the lapels are more wild. 1/3 practicality, 3/3 visually.
Single - less clean look, but the most wild part of the lapels is tamed. 2/3 practicality, 1/3 visually.
Double - less clean look, even more tame than single, but a bit more complete visually - each lapel has a snap, rather than 2 have and 2 don't. 3/3 practicality, 2/3 visually.

Thank you in advance!

 

[Marc mndt]

It's an Aviator, not a motorcycle jacket (because no epaulets and belt loops). If you want to stay true to the style then no lapel / collar snaps.

 

[TartuWolf]

It's an Aviator, not a motorcycle jacket (because no epaulets and belt loops). An aviator doesn't have lapel / collar snaps.

My thoughts as well in terms of visual perspective. But it does seem like at least the single snaps would help the collar stay nicely put. And it will have some moto jacket inspiration already (kidney panel on the back, double straps/buckles at between the hem and the waist).

 

[Marc mndt]

But it does seem like at least the single snaps would help the collar stay nicely put.

If the collar and lapels are properly shaped they'll stay put without any snaps.

 

[TartuWolf]

@Marc mndt
Any tips in terms of shaping specifically to keep them flat/close to the body?
I would guess wetting it a bit and pressing it down with something heavy for while and then letting it dry?
Similar to what was suggested in this thread : https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/i-need-a-little-help-advise.109270/post-2958086

 

[Carlos840]

Personally i like lapel snaps, i have jackets that have no snaps (Trojan for example) and i find that without lapel snaps the lapels end up all over when worn unzipped.
On the other hand i have never found the collar snaps useful at all, even on a bike.
I never snap them even on jackets that have them, i find it looks too neat, almost military (think A2 with collar snaped).

Saying all that i agree with mark that an aviator looks good without any snaps at all...

You could do hidden snaps like these, they are installed on the underside of the leather rather than both layers:

 

[TartuWolf]

Thanks for the response @Carlos840

Sick jacket, made me go into your threads about the 3 Vanson commandos. Drooled all over myself while looking at the pictures of those..

I didn't quite understand what you mean though regarding the first part:
"Personally i like lapel snaps ... On the other hand I have never found the collar snaps useful at all".
So the lapel ones are the lower ones and the collar snaps are the upper ones? And you would only recommend the lapel (lower) ones? My wife thinks the same Says having both is too busy.

Didn't think about the hidden option before. Good suggestion, something to think about.
So maybe hidden lapel snaps only is a pretty good option.

 

[marker2037]

It's an Aviator, not a motorcycle jacket (because no epaulets and belt loops). If you want to stay true to the style then no lapel / collar snaps.

There you go. Answered.

I will add that I also like collar snaps, but even on my motorcycle jackets that all have the snaps, I actually leave them unsnapped, similar to the reasons that Carlos says above.

 

[MrProper]

I don't use mine on the Ridley, but I think it's good that they're on. But mine are more inconspicuous. But I wouldn't use them on an Aviator either.

 

[tmitchell59]

Aviator as in 1st pic. No snaps, no hard warmer zips.

 

[Carlos840]

Thanks for the response @Carlos840

Sick jacket, made me go into your threads about the 3 Vanson commandos. Drooled all over myself while looking at the pictures of those..

I didn't quite understand what you mean though regarding the first part:
"Personally i like lapel snaps ... On the other hand I have never found the collar snaps useful at all".
So the lapel ones are the lower ones and the collar snaps are the upper ones? And you would only recommend the lapel (lower) ones? My wife thinks the same Says having both is too busy.

Didn't think about the hidden option before. Good suggestion, something to think about.
So maybe hidden lapel snaps only is a pretty good option.

Yep, to me lapel snaps are the lower ones, collar snaps are the upper ones.
I like lapel snaps as they look good and are functional, i don't like collar snaps as i find them useless and unsightly.

if it was me i would go for these :

Either doing them visibly like the picture or invisibly like on the commando.

 

[jeo]

I think you need to ask yourself what kind of look you're going after. As far as a general look, you only mention a clean look vs. a less clean look and there are aviator jackets that are more clean than others as well as motorcycle jackets that are more clean than others.

While I generally agree w/ @Marc mndt that a cross zip sans epaulets and belt/belt loops is an aviator style, there are certainly jackets that don't have epaulets and belt loops that achieve a motorcycle look. Some Schott models come to mind, the Double Helix deviant and others that I'm forgetting are not necessarily true to original motorcycle designs but are stripped down or minimalist motorcycle styles and definitely look moto.

You also didn't mention what the cuffs are going to look like. This will be telling as I think the back design and cuff designs play a big role in the overall look of a jacket.

Based on the back design you specified, it seems like you want more of the moto look. If that's the case I would go with either one or two snaps.

 

[58panheadfan]

It's an Aviator, not a motorcycle jacket (because no epaulets and belt loops). If you want to stay true to the style then no lapel / collar snaps.

+1

 

[Canuck Panda]

I prefer invisible snaps on aviators lapels. Both functional and looks good. My aviator jackets don't have any snaps and they drive me nuts when they flop around. And that's why I don't wear them much.

 

[TartuWolf]

Thank you for all the answers so far everybody! Very helpful.

The jacket will be kind of a mix of MC/moto and aviator:
- One piece back with bottom kidney panel. (MC)
- 2 side straps/buckles between hem and waist. (MC)
- Shoulder gussets. (MC)
- No epaulets. (Aviator)
- No belt or belt loops. (Aviator)
- Zipped sleeves/cuffs. (MC)
- Hand warmer pockets . (Aviator)
- One zipped chest pocket. (MC/Aviator)
Brown leather, brass hardware.

@jeo
Well by clean I simply mean less stuff or less busy. The snaps add stuff = less clean.
Same reason I'm not going for a D pocket. Or epaulets. Or belt/loops.

@Canuck Panda
Somehow your comment (together with Carlos) really pushed me towards hidden/invisible lapel snaps.
That way I get ~90% of the visual benefit (as I would fully zip up around 10% and that's when the snaps would reveal themselves) and most of the utility (being able to snap down the lapels).
Seems like the best compromise.

Cheers from snowy Tartu!

 

[whitetail_country]

I think that having snaps detracts from the specific jacket you mentioned, especially since you are going for a more minimal look. If the jacket was "louder" I would probably be fine with them. From a practical standpoint though, I do like the functionality. Perhaps a good compromise is to have hidden snaps as mentioned by another user.

I've actually never really thought about snaps on a jacket before and now I can't unsee them.

 

[jeo]

@TartuWolf yes, that’s how I understood what you said about a clean look.

So you’re going for what is essentially a FW Sunset front but with zip sleeves and a moto style back design.

Do as you please, but IMO you should go for either an aviator style or a motorcycle style. These jackets that are an amalgamation of styles tend to look weird, but hey, it may just work.

Who are you ordering from?

 

[TartuWolf]

@jeo
FW sunset would be a big no no from my perspective solely due to the location/placement of the chest pocket. Weird zipper placement too.

"These jackets that are an amalgamation of styles tend to look weird"
A few counter arguments / thoughts:
1 . There is sure a discussion to be had on what is a "quintessential" MC or aviator. Different periods from different makers had different ideas of which features are mandatory I guess.
2 . I'm not an accurate repro kind of guy. In the last half a year here on TFL I've been trying to feel out what I like in leather jackets, what I want mine to look like. What stuck in my mind were certain features that attract me. Then I looked at possible maker options while keeping in reasonable budget (<1000eu). Ideally a model that I would like 90%, needing as little modification as possible.

I'm ordering from one of the most hated/controversial producers around there parts - Simmons Bilt. Not going to go into it too much as it seems to cause a lot of ruckus. Long story short - model that I like + acceptable pricing + stellar communication + total customization + extremely quick production time.

 

[Cyber Lip]

I'd say if button sleeves - no snaps. If zip sleeves - yes snaps

 

[Canuck Panda]

Simmonsbilt X-zip has a very straight torso. So you'd need to customize without it bagging out at the waist and hem.