Peacoat Button Help

[LEUII]

It has been a long time since I have visited the Lounge. Life has been a whirlwind. I have a bit of a problem and I knew that someone here would know the answer. I have a peacoat that needs to have the buttons moved. (I am not as 'girthy'.) How does one sew buttons without going through the lining? I've never been able to do that.

Thanks in advance.

 

[JanSolo]

If it's a genuine mil-spec peacoat (especially a vintage one) all buttons are attached after the coat is lined. All buttons are sewn through but most of them are sewn through the pocket bag. If it's a commercial coat and the buttons are attached before the coat was lined I suggest to take it to a good seamstress. She will open the lining in the sleeve and turn the jacket inside out. Then all buttons are accessible and can be moved and re-sewn.

 

[LEUII]

Thanks, Jan. It is the real deal, but my needing to move the buttons to make it smaller will put some of the buttons right in the pocket making them almost unusable.

 

[Peacoat]

Thanks, Jan. It is the real deal, but my needing to move the buttons to make it smaller will put some of the buttons right in the pocket making them almost unusable.

I have sewn on buttons many times without sewing the pocket together or making it smaller. If it is a post WWII coat, the bottom two buttons will need to be sewn from inside the pocket. Makes it a little more difficult, but one gets full use of the pocket. The bottom button is the most difficult. Or, you can do as Jan suggests and take it to a professional. I have always just sat down with a needle, thread a thimble (most important) and ein gutes deutsches Bier. That makes me more relaxed and the job much easier.

 

[LEUII]

Ah, I got it upon reading your post. It must have been the Bier. I'm swimming in my coat now and this will help. It may look a bit odd having the buttons further apart, but hey, I'm not in uniform.

 

[JanSolo]

the bottom two buttons will need to be sewn from inside the pocket. Makes it a little more difficult, but one gets full use of the pocket.

That's the point! Don't sew the buttons through the pocket and lining! Use a good strong thread with a proper gauge. Button hole yarn is perfect. I've used Aero's top stitch thread which is of similar thickness. As Peacoat said, a thimble is very important when sewing thick cloth with a strong thread. Don't forget to create a "stem" for the working buttons otherwise the button won't sit properly. Tie a knot on the inside after you've re-sewn the button.
After finishing the job you deserve a cold one! "Zwei Halbe, bitte! Prost!"

 

[Peacoat]

All of this talk about sewing buttons on must have had an effect on the second button on my WWII peacoat today. It came loose late this afternoon as I was on the way home. All of the button stitchings on this coat were original to the coat. Now, having come back from dinner and wine, I will have to copy the original stitching as best I can with ein kaltes Bier. Thanks to Jan for reminding me about the stem. Easy to forget once the sewing starts. And two half pints will work just fine. Prost!

 

[DrLaconic]

I have sewn on buttons many times without sewing the pocket together or making it smaller. If it is a post WWII coat, the bottom two buttons will need to be sewn from inside the pocket.

Just to confirm that I understand, you're saying here that the button(s) should be sewn through the "outer" wall of the pocket? (The side farthest from the body.) Sorry if this is an obvious question -- I just want to make sure before I make any changes. The coat I have now has the button sewn through the pocket entirely.

Incidentally, Peacoat, I'd just like to say thanks for your incredibly comprehensive "Peacoat Dating" sticky. I found it via a link from the blog Put This On, and it was invaluable in giving me the knowledge I needed to find what seems to be a terrific coat (buttons notwithstanding). And Jan, thanks to you as well for your valuable advice in this thread and others.

 

[JanSolo]

you're saying here that the button(s) should be sewn through the "outer" wall of the pocket? (The side farthest from the body.)

Yes! After resewing the button you should be able to feel the knot when you reach into your pockets.

When you look inside your handwarmer pocket it should look like this (yes, the thread is olive).

 

[Peacoat]

Incidentally, Peacoat, I'd just like to say thanks for your incredibly comprehensive "Peacoat Dating" sticky. I found it via a link from the blog Put This On, and it was invaluable in giving me the knowledge I needed to find what seems to be a terrific coat (buttons notwithstanding)

You are certainly welcome.

Jan is right about the knot.

And good to have you on the Lounge.

 

[DrLaconic]

Thanks to you both!