Pea Coat Measurement Questions

[Spoonbelly]

Hello Mr. Peacoat,
How are you? I'm assuming that you would probably answer these measurement questions since you're the resident "pea coat ambassador " in these here parts. Can you determine the chest size of a pea coat if you know the shoulder to shoulder measurement? I do know how to determine the chest size from the armpit to armpit measurements, but was wondering if that could be determined from shoulder to shoulder. When you make armpit to armpit, and shoulder to shoulder measurements the coat must be buttoned up all the way, right? And should the buttons be pushed all the way so that the coat is as far open as the buttons can go? When measuring armpit to armpit should you measure on the front, or the back, or it doesn't matter? Someone on ebay gave me a shoulder to shoulder measurement of 21". The label of the coat was marked 44. Could a 44 have 21" for the shoulder to shoulder? I screwed up the bidding on this coat and didn't get it. It was a size 44 from 1949 in mint condition. The winner paid only 75$ for it. I'm still kicking myself in the buttski over it!! Thank you.

 

[Peacoat]

I just finished a rather lengthy response to your question. Unfortunately I lost my internet connection, and the message, before I could send it. I am out of town right now and will try and answer your question when I get back home. Mr. Peacoat.

 

[Peacoat]

I wouldn't want to determine chest size by the shoulder measurements, although there is a correlation. One of my size 40 peacoats measures 16 3/4" across the shoulder seams at the back and one of my size 42 peacoats measures 17 1/2".

When I want a chest measurement, I ask the seller to button the buttons and place the peacoat chest up on a flat surface. The material should be stretched tight to remove the wrinkles, both front and rear, and then allowed to relax. The measurement is then taken across the chest from just under one armpit to just under the other armpit.

The resulting measurement will probably be a whole number and a fraction. Disregard the fraction. Multiply the whole number by 2 and then subtract 2" from the result. This (subtracting the 2") will give the inside measurement, even though the measurement is taken from the outside.

As an example, I would expect a size 44 peacoat to measure a little over 23" across the chest--say 23 1/4". Disregard the 1/4" and multiply the 23 by 2 = 46. Then subtract 2" to get the inside measurement, which gives a true chest size of 44.

This is a simple but effective way to determine the true chest size, with or without a tag. I have found the stated chest size to always be accurate; however, one of our posters found this wasn't the situation with a peacoat he bought on Ebay. Therefore, I always recommend that buyers get a chest measurement using the method explained above.

Sorry this has taken so long to answer, but I have been swamped at the office and at home after getting back from vacation. Mr. Peacoat

 

[Navin323i]

^^^ Excellent info you provided, Peacoat! I particularly enjoyed reading how you want the seller to give you the chest measurement. I'm a little confused as to why 2 is the number that when subtracting gives you the inside measurement, but since it works I'll definitely adopt your method here.

 

[Peacoat]

^^^ Excellent info you provided, Peacoat! I particularly enjoyed reading how you want the seller to give you the chest measurement. I'm a little confused as to why 2 is the number that when subtracting gives you the inside measurement, but since it works I'll definitely adopt your method here.

The difference between the inside and the outside measurement is determined by the thickness of the wool. For example, the wool may only be 1/4" thick when a cross section of the shell is examined. But when that 1/4" is extended around the entire circumference of the peacoat, and not just a cross section, it will be about 2" of added material on the exterior of the coat, relative to the internal measurement. So, I subtract 2" from the external measurement to get the internal measurement of the coat, which is normally the stated tag size of the peacoat.

I determined this method of sizing peacoats, not from a mathematical formula, but from obtaining measuring from hundreds of peacoats and comparing the stated tag size to the external chest measurements. Works every time.

Hope this helps.

 

[Spoonbelly]

Mr. Peacoat,
Thank you again for your reply. With the temperatures hitting 90 up here in New York, the ebay listings for pea coats are pretty scarce now. There are always the million 38s and 40s available but not much at all of the larger sizes. When does the "pea coat season" start? Is it in Oct., or Nov.? I can't wait because I would love to find another larger size Kersey that would fit me.
Just one more thing. I bought a '69 Kersey and the tag says 44L. I measured the armpit to armpit and it is 24" making it a 46L. Have you come across coats which have an incorrect size on the label? This must be the case with this coat because it fits me like my black 46XL and 46L. If that is the case, the probability of finding a Kersey coat which fits me is probably nill since 46L Kerseys are probably extremely rare. Maybe I could find another 44L and it would fit me?

 

[Peacoat]

It has been my experience that the stated tag size is almost always spot on. I have received reports to the contrary, however. Our English friend, Cooperson, bought a coat on Ebay that was a size or two larger than the size stated on the tag.

Glad to see you are wearing your peacoat in the City. I spent many a cold day and night up there keeping warm in my peacoat. Most nights I added a sweater as we did a lot of walking to get where we needed to go. In fact, the uniform for the younger set back in the sixties and early seventies was a peacoat and a dark blue or black sweater. I imagine things have changed somewhat in the intervening 40 years.

As you know, any size much larger than a 42 is hard to find. The 44s occasionally are available, but a 46L is a rare beast. It isn't that there aren't big guys in the Navy, but by the time they have grown into big guys, they are Chiefs. After being promoted to Chief, the new E-7 normally sells his peacoat and wears a Bridgecoat for the rest of his career.

Yes, the peacoat season won't start up again until the late Fall. However, the occasional estate sale might cause a peacoat to show up on Ebay. Because you are looking for such a rare coat, you will have to be extra diligent in your search.

I believe I have given you this link before, but if not, here it is. These guys are usually accurate in determining the eras of the peacoats they sell.

http://www.vintagetrends.com/milita...tage&CA=Men&SC=Jackets/Coats&ST=Navy+Pea+Coat

 

[CC-1]

ditto timing

Don't give up checking. I just picked up virgin WW2 10 button on ebay as well as the deadstock 1966 I posted some days ago during the "off" season.
I admit to being one of those puny size 38-40 guys but a miracle opportunity will just pop up anytime. (BTW, Mr. Peacoat, the WW2 also has the "trapunto" collar but I'm not gonna post as the horse is surely expired)