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Opinions Wanted on New Jacket Please

Messages
71
Location
Paris
Hello,

I'm a long time leather jacket collector and lover or all things vintage. I've often consulted this forum and found the posts informative and the members curteous. Thanks for keeping up such a great forum!

I'm starting a line of leather jackets called Pegasus Durable Clothing. I do not have a website yet. I would love to have your opinions on the motorcycle jacket I am currently making. All opininions are welcome. Please let me know what you think!



















 

Silver Dollar

Practically Family
Messages
613
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
Looking pretty good from what I can see, PJ. I tend to like the brown jackets a lot better than the black ones. They seem to have a more vintage feel. I wouldn't mind seeing a belt and buckle at the waist area but it's definitely not critical.
 

TheSnark

One of the Regulars
Messages
124
Location
S. Arizona, US
I like it!

Lookin' good, imo. I like the button loops on the front pockets and the pleated back. The hide looks nice (though it's nearly impossible to judge the quality of new hide from a photo), and the design works well in goat. I like the color.

A couple of questions/suggestions:
Instead of just a leather panel on the back interior, include an leather strip (about 2 inches or so) along the entire lower interior. Same goes for the end of the sleeves... about 1/2-inch leather hem to protect the lining.

What is the lining? Personally, I'm not crazy about the lining pattern in the photo, but a different color/pattern for the lining should be a very simple option.
 
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
Like it..!
I put quite a few miles on a MC each year and prefer no tank scratcher(belt and buckle)..that I never use anyhow. I'm assuming that is a double leather panel for back support(nice touch). Very nice vintage features including inverted pleats. If the body length was as pictured on model..I would consider a purchase. In my view..even if only used for streetwear..this is a style you don't see everyday..and should sell well.
HD
 

Silver Dollar

Practically Family
Messages
613
Location
Louisville, Kentucky
HoosierDaddy said:
Like it..!
I put quite a few miles on a MC each year and prefer no tank scratcher(belt and buckle)..that I never use anyhow. HD

Aha! Now that makes sense. I don't ride a cycle so I didn't even think of tank scratching. :eusa_doh: To me, it looked similar to an Irvin jacket. In that case, no belt please.
 
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
Silver Dollar said:
Aha! Now that makes sense. I don't ride a cycle so I didn't even think of tank scratching. :eusa_doh: To me, it looked similar to an Irvin jacket. In that case, no belt please.


Actually SD...it just a personal preference. I'm guilty of not taking the time to buckle up a belt on a MC jacket....too much of a hassle...so a dangling buckle is the scratch culprit in that case. Rather not have one.
HD
 

jon z

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
Southampton England
That's One Beautiful Jacket

Is that based on an actual vintage piece or is it your interpretation? You deserve every success & I look forward to seeing your website soon.

If I were going to buy one I'd prefer to lose the lower side adjust straps so leaving just the upper straps each side. Also I'd lose the rear expansion vents & just have them as closed seams.

Do you intend to offer custom work?
 

Creeping Past

One Too Many
Messages
1,567
Location
England
That's really nice work. I disagree with Jon Z about the rear pleats — they're very good — but I agree about having just one side strap, rather than two. I'd also prefer it without the D-pocket: will that be an option?

The back looks a little long if intended for non-riding wear. I'd prefer to see the bottom seam sitting around the line of the jeans pockets.

I really like this project. Looking forward to seeing your site.
 

jon z

One of the Regulars
Messages
265
Location
Southampton England
Creeping Past said:
That's really nice work. I disagree with Jon Z about the rear pleats — they're very good — but I agree about having just one side strap, rather than two. I'd also prefer it without the D-pocket: will that be an option?

The back looks a little long if intended for non-riding wear. I'd prefer to see the bottom seam sitting around the line of the jeans pockets.

I really like this project. Looking forward to seeing your site.
CP, I'll stick to my preference re. the rear pleats & think the D-pocket is a must.

In retrospect I do agree with your comment on the length. It does need to be shorter. I'd missed that on first inspection.
 

Creeping Past

One Too Many
Messages
1,567
Location
England
I've just had a look at this jacket on Ebay. The back on a 44" chest is 25", so should be a good length: maybe it's just the way it's photographed. $750 excl. postage, it seems.
 
Messages
71
Location
Paris
Thanks for all your detailed observations, encouragements, and critiques. This is really helpful stuff!

Let me try to address some of the points raised:

Silver Dollar said:
Looking pretty good from what I can see, PJ. I tend to like the brown jackets a lot better than the black ones. They seem to have a more vintage feel.

Thanks and I also prefer brown for vintage jackets (altough completely a personal preference). I may offer a black one in the near future as well for those who want a more "bad boy" look.

The Snark said:
The hide looks nice (though it's nearly impossible to judge the quality of new hide from a photo), and the design works well in goat. Instead of just a leather panel on the back interior, include an leather strip (about 2 inches or so) along the entire lower interior. Same goes for the end of the sleeves... about 1/2-inch leather hem to protect the lining.
What is the lining? Personally, I'm not crazy about the lining pattern in the photo, but a different color/pattern for the lining should be a very simple option.

Leather is indeed difficult to judge from photos but I'm very happy with this particular hide and color. Its vegetable tanned (smells great) and has a nice hand and good weight to it (2.5oz, 1.2mm). The color is russet brown with a tinge of red. I chose goat for its vintage quality, beautiful pebble grain, breathability, and durability / abraision resistance for motorcycling. I've been wearing the jacket as much as I can these past few days (even wore it in the rain) and its started to crease and wear at the right spots. Good suggestion Snark on the extra leather panel on the flanks. I was thinking about that myself. I'll try to integrate it on the next version. The lining is a heavy 100% wool tweed. It does really look better in person. I will be offering a cotton plaid lining as well (see pics below for the lining).

Hoosier Daddy said:
I put quite a few miles on a MC each year and prefer no tank scratcher(belt and buckle)..that I never use anyhow.

Couldn't agree with you more on this one. I own a vintage bike myself and its hard enough keeping it scratch free without having to worry about jacket hardware. That's also one of the reasons why the sleeve zips are placed on the front. Riders will appreciate that they won't scratch things up and that they can be easily zipped without having to take both hands off the handlebars.

Jon Z said:
Is that based on an actual vintage piece or is it your interpretation? You deserve every success & I look forward to seeing your website soon.

Thank you Jon for your kind remarks. it is not a copy or replica of an acutal vintage piece but my own interpretation of what "the perfect" vintage jacket would look like (if there is such a thing). I'm currently selling on a "famous auction site" ;) before I get the funds and time to put up a website.

To address the posts on back length from Jon Z, CP, And HD:

The length is IMHO spot on for riding and streetwear. Not too long (to keep the vintage look) and not too short (to ride up when you're leaning over on the bike). It looks a bit longer on the mannequin than it does in real life. I'll post pics wearing it when I get a minute.

Here are the back lengths vs. Sizes. Let me know what you gentlemen think:
Size 38: 23½” / 60cm
Size 40: 24” / 61cm
Size 42: 24½” / 62cm
Size 44: 25” / 63.5cm
Size 46: 25½” / 65cm

Concerning the questions on custom work; I will be offering limited customization (sizes, linings, etc.) but not full blown customization.

Here's a pic of some of the cotton linings I will be offering. I'm leaning towards the number 6 for this jacket:

 

TheSnark

One of the Regulars
Messages
124
Location
S. Arizona, US
Just to weigh in on a few of the topics:

The length looks quite good to me, and the belt idea is best forgotten, imo.

I like the dual-strap design, as is. Granted, this purely personal preference, but I don't you to get the idea that everyone prefers a single side-strap. :)

I like the #6 pattern for cotton lining. Definitely an improvement in my view, anyway.

IMHO, you should stick to your plans for a MC jacket, an avoid compromising too much for a more general-purpose jacket. Obviously, variations of this design could be made to serve other purposes, but what you've presented here is clearly intended for riding, so please don't mess it up trying to please everyone. You can always create another design for the broader market.
 

TheSnark

One of the Regulars
Messages
124
Location
S. Arizona, US
I just noticed there are no snaps or buttons to hold the collar. I suspect a goatskin collar of that width is going to flap around in the wind quite a bit. Just one more thing to consider...
 

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