Opinions on HimelBros 1920's jacket fit

[WalkingBoy]

Dear all
Has anyone had much or any experience with Himel Bros jackets? in particular the fit? I'm eyeing off the 1929 Heron Zipper but have to say I've got questions about the fit. I absolutely adore the very early motorcycle and civilian jackets of the 20's; that simple tunic style, very elegant curly button down cuffs and trim stumpy collar...and I applaud HimelBros for creating a classy looking jacket. But I've been looking at many of the photos of models wearing them, and they look a bit awkward in fit. The under-arm areas and top torso seem to pull out of shape, and the models look a bit uncumf. Also I'm equally not sure about the dipping/droopy front waist band. It looks a bit strange. I've seen 20's jackets and they do slant, but not to that extent...or is it just me
Is this how they're supposed to fit and look?
If anyone has more experience and knowledge about the Himel version or any 1920's jacket I'd love to know...
ps i'd love to see some photos of anyone can be bothered
ta

Martin

 

[Jeff M]

Never heard of them.

For those interested, here is a link to their web site;
http://www.himelbros.com/index.php?p=page&page_id=about_us

Yikes!
Pretty pricey.

 

[mimesis2nemesis]

Himel.. as in... David Himel? These jackets do look quite pricy...

 

[Tomasso]

Pricy? Actually, it's at this price-point where you begin to see some quality leathers.



And BTW, where are these pix of the jackets being modeled; I didn't see any on their website.

 

[WalkingBoy]

Photo's can be found here on Fe-Vintage online photo library

http://www.fevintage.com/PICS/index.php?pn=99&album=hbljackets

and scroll back and forward's.

IMO they're pretty pricy comparable to other styled jackets from other makers. and if you're right about 'seeing some quality leathers' the Horsehide would have to be pretty darn special

 

[Baron Kurtz]

He is in the same kind of price range as Aero, Lost Worlds, John Chapman, Lewis Leathers et al. So, yes, the price point where the serious leather makers start.

I know from corresponding with D. Himel that he has gone to great lengths to source the very best traditionally tanned leathers. Some of them come all the way from Japan, I gather. This kind of attention to sourcing makes it very difficult to get that price point down.

Hopefully he'll butt in on the thread; he is a FLounger.

bk

 

[Edward]

I thought I recognised the designs - wasn't there a link posted to his blog with these in before - at least the first one? I love the look of the button up model. Looking at xe.com, they're coming out at about GBP700, which is a premium price, but very competitive with Eastman, LW, etc. Slightly above the price of an Aero halfbelt or whatever. Seems pretty competitive to me. I'd adore to have the button up first design in goat...

 

[Aether]

Nice, unique designs. Possibly geared towards the japanese market more? I especially like the MC style 'Avro', but at that price it had better be something special. I wonder how it would compare to a Langlitz?

 

[Jeff M]

The offerings that I see listed on the Himel Bros. web site are more expensive than what GoodWear, Aero, the majority of Eastman and Lost Worlds, Vanson, Langlitz jackets sell for.

This from a manufacturer I've never seen mentioned here before...or ever heard of.
Love to see more options out there, but no denying it, their prices did catch my attention.

 

[JakeHolman]

I've been following David's excellent blog for a long time (this has got to be the same guy, right?) -http://vintageleatherjackets.blogspot.com/

I've no doubt, given his passion and knowledge, that these jackets will be amazing. Expensive - yes - but these will probably be very labor intensive to make. Looking forward to seeing a few emerge on the Lounge.

 

[himelator]

Fit and Jacket

I can post some pictures when I get around to perfecting the pattern. I would say it is identical to a 1920s jacket I own...identical down to the last stitch...that being said the cut is not what you would expect. In this period the jacket fit like a sausage, the body was up and down fit with little or no tapering at all. The horsehide comes from the same tannery as RealMcCoys et al..and is EXTREMELY expensive..because the top stitching is cotton, and the parts are skived it takes about one to one and a half days to make a jacket. That being said I Im not trying to justify it. I have worked out my prices and with luck they will change in a good direction once business is going. I will post a few pics , that being said my website isnt finished yet and I am still working on it.

http://www.fevintage.com/PICS/fedora/_DSC0108.jpg

 

[himelator]

So the last guy here wanted it loose and nerdy...I am working on a tight fit version of this pattern and am debating whether or not to do an entirely new pattern as tapering the body would not be authentic to the period or the original jacket. I am going to make a tight fit jacket and then decide if I am going to offer it as a mod on this pattern or rename and remake another a-1 pattern with a more fitted torso...oh and here is a pic of a more portly figure in a jacket

 

[feltfan]

Love it. Wish you made a (modern) size 50.

 

[himelator]

Love it. Wish you made a (modern) size 50.

I do make up to size 50 havent made one yet but I have the pattern in that size...

 

[WalkingBoy]

David, I'm impressed with the finish of the Heron jackets. As you mentioned the originals were meant to fit like a sausage, more straight up and down and not much/no tapering...so for me its whether i want true authentic or a version of it, that won't make it that authentic, if you know what i mean. I'd prefer a 'modern' take on it.
Would it be possible to tweak a few things on the Heron pattern : eg a straighter waist band with less dip? Or would that compromise the original pattern....? Maybe down the track when you cut more patterns?
And is the horsehide available in mid-tone brown?

 

[himelator]

David, I'm impressed with the finish of the Heron jackets. As you mentioned the originals were meant to fit like a sausage, more straight up and down and not much/no tapering...so for me its whether i want true authentic or a version of it, that won't make it that authentic, if you know what i mean. I'd prefer a 'modern' take on it.
Would it be possible to tweak a few things on the Heron pattern : eg a straighter waist band with less dip? Or would that compromise the original pattern....? Maybe down the track when you cut more patterns?
And is the horsehide available in mid-tone brown?

I have 5 leathers right now, pigment black and chocolate brown horsehide, and oil tan black and brown analine horse, and pigment brown (g-1 style) goat. I will not use the oil tan for the style because it is too stiff. Any order can be adjusted to specific measurements or stylistic requirements, I have a process for that which can be discussed through the email. Send me a note through wickedcool@fevintage.com as this is my work email until himelbros email is up and working

dh

 

[Fletch]

Pricy? Actually, it's at this price-point where you begin to see some quality leathers.

And some classic design. These jackets are honestly too simple and too elegant to appeal to most retailers. They'd want stitching, logos, piecing to cut costs, distressing to hide unmatched skins...

Strong beginning, David. I imagine it took guts to get them made at all.

 

[blethook]

Here are some pics of my new 1929 Heron (zipper) jacket

I must say it is pricey, but I personally think it's worth it.

Mine is based on the true 1920s cut (i.e., no tapering on the body & sleeves) so overall the fit is rather "loose."

The upside of the rather loose fit is that I'm going to be able to put on layers of warm clothing underneath (making it an all-year jacket). I've already tried wearing a long-sleeve shirt & a medium-weight sweater underneath & movement is completely unrestricted. This would've been impossible if the jacket was based on the more modern cut.

 

[silencejoe]

Fit pic for my A-1 jacket : )

 

[himelator]

Hey all ....generally I dont pipe up a lot about these issues on the fedora lounge.....but I thought I might address this ongoing discussion of price. It makes me uncomfortable when people discuss price and then compare jacket costs amongst makers....its all apples and oranges...I make 4 or 5 jackets a week I have a 3 person team including myself and I source out the best of the best of the best materials on the planet to make them. If I priced them appropriately based on traditional business models they would be 3 times more expensive then what I currently sell for. So for example if you produced a widget A: for 500 dollars and you were running a proper wholesale..you would then wholesale A for 1000 dollars. The retailer would then resell A for 1 to 3 times markup so widget A retails for 2 to 3 K. My costs are much higher then 500 per jacket because of the use of custom leathers, materials and liners, zippers and I pay my sewers 30 dollars per hour. So I wont discuss my costing in the future. As my customers tell me ...they all own other peoples jackets and I have had not one complaint, and in fact 100 % of the time been told that I have made their best jackets yet. Final note....John makes every jacket himself. You are getting absolute art and beauty for practically free in this regard. If you go to your local bespoke tailor, or google REal McCoys or go to your local high end shopping district ....these prices are more reflective of the cost of beautiful things...I really hope I am not going to regret this post. Also the links to FE Pics...are pics I use for my ebay auctions...many photos are out of date or just plain old...I personally would prefer that it not be posted on a public forum...but they are technically public. If anybody wants pictures of fit, or testimonials from my customers ....many of whom are fedora lounge members you are welcome to email me...or even to check out my various blogs which I will be updating soon. I am always disappointed at the high cost of producing these jackets...if this was 1925 certainly the price would have been lower but the competition would have been much stiffer. This is my passion not some grand get rich quick scheme and I hope that this comes across from my websites, blogs and other materials.