Norfolk Jacket

[Creeping Past]

Ah, BT's invisible Irish thornproof suit.

Thanks, Marc. I like the cut of that Norfolk, especially the breast pockets.

 

[BellyTank]

Emperors Knew Klothes

Look in the Goodwood thread- Speedster is wearing it. You know.
I know, I know... it all sounds very Scandinavian and incestuous...

Like.


B
T

 

[Flitcraft]

Agreed!!!

Thanks, Marc. I like the cut of that Norfolk, especially the breast pockets.

I was thinking about how "modern" it looked.
I'd wear that in a heartbeat...

 

[Speedster]

Ah, BT's invisible Irish thornproof suit.

BT's visible Irish Thornproof:

 

[Speedster]

Look in the Goodwood thread- Speedster is wearing it. You know.
I know, I know... it all sounds very Scandinavian and incestuous...

Like.


B
T

This one (wearing two of the three pieces):

And some of the photos you sent me back then showing the details and material:

Would love to have a Norfolk jacket in Irish Thornproof.

 

[H.Johnson]

With respect, this doesn't look like keepers tweed, which is a tough, closely woven fabric.

Marc's pics do look like Keeper's Tweed, which I think is the thornproof is wool/cotton fabric you mean.

Jean cloth = wool/cotton twill = you're more or less right about homespun being variant tweed.

So that's that, then. NEXT!

 

[BellyTank]

Yes-
I have always thought (not a Tweed expert)of Keepers Tweed as the heaviest
of the heavy.


B
T

 

[cookie]

This one (wearing two of the three pieces):

And some of the photos you sent me back then showing the details and material:

Would love to have a Norfolk jacket in Irish Thornproof.

I have an Aussie made Irish T'ornproof Tweed jacket from the 60s early 70s but this cloth is unbelievable.

 

[STW]

With respect, this doesn't look like keepers tweed, which is a tough, closely woven fabric.

Was keepers tweed a catagorie made by various makers (or labels) of tweed, or was it separately labeled? In other words, might you see a Harris Tweed keepers tweed or a Donegal Tweed keepers tweed?

Sorry for the thread drift:eusa_doh:

 

[Creeping Past]

Not Keeper's Tweed

I was linking to a photo on the Bookster site, which was the nearest I could find.

 

[H.Johnson]

Keepers' Tweed

Keepers' tweed (or keeper's tweed as it is sometimes known) is a type of tweed, not usually associated with a particular place or maker(s). Harris, Donegal and Derby Tweed are traditional tweeds specific to certain areas, with their own weaves and patterns.

Keepers' ('s) tweed was (is?) intended for a specific purpose or to be worn for a specific type of work (gamekeeping). If it can be associated with any region, it would be the English 'shires'. It is heavy, plain or slightly mottled and very dense and therefore stiff and difficult (for some people) to wear. Definitely not 'posh' but very durable. Most tweed tailors used to do a working dress in the fabric. IMHO Phillips and Piper do some of the best keepers'('s) tweed clothing in their Pytchley range.

Was keepers tweed a catagorie made by various makers (or labels) of tweed, or was it separately labeled? In other words, might you see a Harris Tweed keepers tweed or a Donegal Tweed keepers tweed?

Sorry for the thread drift:eusa_doh:

 

[BellyTank]

Keeper's is the heavy stuff-


B
T

 

[H.Johnson]

Yes - IMO it starts at 32 oz and you do see it heavier than this.

BTW, I forgot to mention my local 'tweedier' Brocklehursts who do a nice suit in the material.

 

[STW]

Keepers' tweed (or keeper's tweed as it is sometimes known) is a type of tweed, not usually associated with a particular place or maker(s)...

Thanks. Very useful.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Does remind me of the Civil War era "Jean Cloth"- wool/cotton.
Kind of Tweed-y...

Photos below are courtesy of thunderw21. Here the cloth which I showed earlier is not called "homespun", but "twist":

 

[Creeping Past]

Looks a little like the 700 grams (24-ish ounce) fabric that I linked to.

Although I've a fair idea what a twist fabric is (higher density), I've searched Google but can't easily find a definition of it to post here. Is Keeper's Tweed a twist material?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Is Keeper's Tweed a twist material?

Don't know.


Having owned jackets with the vintage material shown above, I can say that it neither looks nor feels quite like Keeper's Tweed or Thornproof cloth. Whether it's called "twist" or "homespun", the stuff is VERY scratchy and sandpapery, crisp and dry to the touch, and porous (though only upon close inspection).

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=880520&postcount=34


.

 

[thunderw21]

Don't know.


Having owned jackets with the vintage material shown above, I can say that it neither looks nor feels quite like Keeper's Tweed or Thornproof cloth. Whether it's called "twist" or "homespun", the stuff is VERY scratchy and sandpapery, crisp and dry to the touch, and porous (though only upon close inspection).

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=880520&postcount=34


.

Is this the stuff sometimes called "sandpaper" material? It's been referred to as that in the "Show us your suits" thread if it's the same material.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Is this the stuff sometimes called "sandpaper" material? It's been referred to as that in the "Show us your suits" thread if it's the same material.

Think so. I've described it as "sandpaper" in that thread.


Don't like the way which 'twist/homespun' cloth wears: it feels scratchy and starchy on.


.

 

[H.Johnson]

Let's twist again

As I understand it, 'twist' is a term used by weavers to describe a twilled weave with a tighter spun yarn than would be used for a bulkier tweed. In a way it is related to worsted cloth - hard spun and tightly woven, so the cloth is thin but dense and very windproof (which much tweed isn't). That makes it practical and wearable as 'everyday' tweed. Keeper's tweed is similar (IMO) but bulkier and heavier.

One of my favourite tweed suits is a Magee in their Barnsmore Twist tweed.