New Himel transcontinental railroad - what do you think, keep or return?

[JMax]

He's not the only one... Doesn't GW do it as well?
And I think a few other makers.

And some makers will push back on public inquiries asking for "bespoke" jackets, but will do exactly that if you pay them the premium or are a good customer. They will custom build you a jacket based on your own measurements, in a chosen leather with chosen liner, with a certain pocket config, etc., etc. It's just not what they market or traditionally do. Of course, some stick to their guns and only alter length, sleeves, etc., if that. Either way, it ain't bespoke, perhaps "bespoke by correspondence" or "bespoke light".

 

[Monitor]

You can't order a "bespoke" jacket online! Aero does what everyone else is doing. You think Himel is creating an entirely different pattern for each of his customers based on a few, lousy measurements people take of themselves, that are mostly off? Of course he isn't. Nobody is.

 

[JMax]

You can't order a "bespoke" jacket online! Aero does what everyone else is doing. You think Himel is creating an entirely different pattern for each of his customers based on a few, lousy measurements people take of themselves, that are mostly off? Of course he isn't. Nobody is.

I concur. My great-uncle used to make bespoke suits. As my daddy told me, he was taking close to 100 measurements, looking at posture, gait, mannerisms, individual arm and leg length, etc. and building stuff from scratch made only for that individual. It took supreme talent, uncanny ability to visualize in 3D, understanding of an individual's body movements, etc. He would roll over in his grave at the thought of anything less being called bespoke. Now, what Himel or others do when compared to Schott or other brands almost universally results in a better fit, but it ain't what it ain't. And to be fair, as I stated earlier, I recall that Himel himself does not make that claim.

 

[Carlos840]

From Himel himself:

Q: Is this a standard size 42? Or did you actually use the measurements and pictures i sent you to come up with a one off adjusted pattern?

A: "it is completely custom based on your measurements...that is the current system"

Now i don't think he starts a new pattern from scratch on a blank sheet of paper for each new customer, but i am pretty sure he tweaks things to fit to a larger extent than just adding length.
I can't imagine he used the same exact chevalier pattern to fit Mysterio and I!

 

[red devil]

And some makers will push back on public inquiries asking for "bespoke" jackets, but will do exactly that if you pay them the premium or are a good customer. They will custom build you a jacket based on your own measurements, in a chosen leather with chosen liner, with a certain pocket config, etc., etc. It's just not what they market or traditionally do. Of course, some stick to their guns and only alter length, sleeves, etc., if that. Either way, it ain't bespoke, perhaps "bespoke by correspondence" or "bespoke light".

Simply a customised fit and not true bespoke for sure.

Bespoke would require you going to the maker/tailor physically and that is indeed another world. Thanks for reminding us the true meaning of bespoke!

 

[l0fielectronic]

Thanks all. The decision is clear: I will return it.

One thing I’ve learnt about clothing is that if something doesn’t feel right immediately, it will never feel right.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've had a few jackets grow on me, or jackets I thought were just 'okay' turn out to be ones I've worn a lot but I'd agree, the ones I kept because they were a bargain or which had a style I liked while they didn't quite fit me right I've all sold on.


I'm sure I've seen a member here with this jaket and it looked a decent fit, but I have seen more than a couple of other photos online where people who tried it and the pattern 'issues' mentioned all looked downright odd.

 

[Monitor]

From Himel himself:

Q: Is this a standard size 42? Or did you actually use the measurements and pictures i sent you to come up with a one off adjusted pattern?

A: "it is completely custom based on your measurements...that is the current system"

Now i don't think he starts a new pattern from scratch on a blank sheet of paper for each new customer, but i am pretty sure he tweaks things to fit to a larger extent than just adding length.
I can't imagine he used the same exact chevalier pattern to fit Mysterio and I!

No, of course not. He has Chevalier patterns in each size which he will slightly tweak provided that the customer provides a certain measurement. If you do not, he'll just use a standard size pattern. And most people don't.

Which is what Aero does, only to a more or less lesser extent. But that doesn't make one maker any more (or less) bespoke - or at all - and while I honestly don't want this to sound like I'm taking another jab at Himel, something about his answer above simply doesn't add up.

DH is a professional tailor and taking measurements in tailoring is near-science. @JMax is spot on on this. DH knows very well that most people can't take a single measurement worth a damn - and that includes us here on this forum and we still know a lot more about the subject than most people - so in order to truly make a truly individually, completely custom jacket based on someone's measurements, he would have no business other than from people that physically walk into his store.

And as far as I know, most of his business comes online.

 

[JMax]

No, of course not. He has Chevalier patterns in each size which he will slightly tweak provided that the customer provides a certain measurement. If you do not, he'll just use a standard size pattern. And most people don't.

Which is what Aero does, only to a more or less lesser extent. But that doesn't make one maker any more (or less) bespoke - or at all - and while I honestly don't want this to sound like I'm taking another jab at Himel, something about his answer above simply doesn't add up.

DH is a professional tailor and taking measurements in tailoring is near-science. @JMax is spot on on this. DH knows very well that most people can't take a single measurement worth a damn - and that includes us here on this forum and we still know a lot more about the subject than most people - so in order to truly make a truly individually, completely custom jacket based on someone's measurements, he would have no business other than from people that physically walk into his store.

And as far as I know, most of his business comes online.

Yeah, I thought the response odd.

The kicker is that Himel absolutely nailed Carlos's fit, at least to my eye. The best fitting Himel I have seen on this or any site, to include the jackets Himel himself sports on FB or IG. Skill? Of course. But given the impersonal process, i.e., the maker and purchaser are never face to face, quite a bit of luck too. The perils of online shopping we are all familiar with.

 

[Boyo]

I like mine, from the "what jacket are you wearing" thread.

 

[Sloan1874]

I think the major of makers produce what's called 'made-to-measure'. That is to say, they tweak their patterns and take into account specific requests from the customer. I remember my father advising me that most people don't really need 'bespoke' as it's really for people with non-standard builds.
You can do a lot to get an exacting made to measure: my suit was too tight at the back, so they simply cracked open the vertical seam and expanded the panel until it fitted perfectly. On my fourth (and final) one, they nipped in the trouser legs and, if I recall, the waist of the jacket, and it remains the best looking of all my suits.

 

[Superfluous]

Himel will not only customize his existing patterns, but also custom make a new jacket pattern. He offered to do this for me last week. I sent him a photo of a jacket that he had never made before, and he agreed to make it to my dimensions. He agreed to make a brand new pattern from scratch. It ain't cheap, but he definitely will do it.

 

[tropicalbob]

I think the real craftsmen, whether you're ordering leather jackets, suits, hats, or whatever online, seem to have an uncanny knack of listening to the customer and deducing their needs. I've had that fortunate experience a couple of times: once with Aero and another time with Art Fawcett, the hatter, who really is a wizard.

 

[rocketeer]

The collar is perfect..........for Harry Hill

 

[red devil]

Himel will not only customize his existing patterns, but also custom make a new jacket pattern. He offered to do this for me last week. I sent him a photo of a jacket that he had never made before, and he agreed to make it to my dimensions. He agreed to make a brand new pattern from scratch. It ain't cheap, but he definitely will do it.

What jacket is it?
Maybe you could post the details in this thread?
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/thr...any-potential-ones.89562/page-75#post-2417809

 

[navetsea]

From Himel himself:

Q: Is this a standard size 42? Or did you actually use the measurements and pictures i sent you to come up with a one off adjusted pattern?

A: "it is completely custom based on your measurements...that is the current system"

Now i don't think he starts a new pattern from scratch on a blank sheet of paper for each new customer, but i am pretty sure he tweaks things to fit to a larger extent than just adding length.
I can't imagine he used the same exact chevalier pattern to fit Mysterio and I!

maybe he use a software, it is available, including how to effectively lay it on the material to minimize waste.

 

[Boyo]

Added a few more pics.. all buttoned up.. the collar/neck hole is not as big as it apppears when unbuttoned

 

[Jejupe]

View attachment 119354

View attachment 119355 Added a few more pics.. all buttoned up.. the collar/neck hole is not as big as it apppears when unbuttoned

This looks pretty good when one has the right size!

 

[barnabus]

This looks pretty good when one has the right size!

Absolutely! The key here is just that Boyo's fits brilliantly.

 

[jonesy86]

That looks great Boyo. I guess the right size helps, but maybe the right cut, or style for the right body type to?

 

[jonesy86]

I think the real craftsmen, whether you're ordering leather jackets, suits, hats, or whatever online, seem to have an uncanny knack of listening to the customer and deducing their needs. I've had that fortunate experience a couple of times: once with Aero and another time with Art Fawcett, the hatter, who really is a wizard.

I agree, but have to throw in a word about Carrie at Thurston having great "intuition", in listening to the customer, and deciding what would work. In my case, I didn't even know what I wanted, but she did.
Peace